JoKer Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 Nothing to add I was just admiring your guys, and this guys work make it look easy! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 12 hours ago, Roman said: Yeah I havent looked yet but I think the pipes dont extend downwards at all, so if any resin makes it into the pot it would just as likely creep across the top lid as it would drip down. Last time I used it, I had super super short pipes on it because it was in lockdown and wanted to test it out. So that's probably part of it, previously I've always had the pump and the pot way uphill of the part to minimize the issue. I've pulled the pump a bit further apart, I think so long as I can get the resin out of the pump housing without scratching it I'll get away with it. The mix of vac oil and the resin is super grotty stuff haha. Live and learn! If the epoxy didn't cure before being mixed with the oil you might get away with soaking it all in acetone to clean it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted September 2, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 2, 2020 I finally managed to get the HIPS material working on the 3d printer (it's dissolvable in a particular chemical) One of my long term dreams for ages has been to have a good dissolvable core so I can lay up CF on it nicely and end up with a good light weight complex shape. However I've never had access to the chemical either so I wasnt sure if it was feasible to get or if it would damage the epoxy or carbon. Turns out you can buy D-Lemonine from the chemical supplier in Hamilton and it wasnt too expensive. So bought 2 litres to test - it also turns out that epoxy and CF are completely impervious to it. Awesome! For printing a part I decided to start with something easy as I'm always over reaching a bit trying something complicated then falling short. So after a few test prints to get the proportions feel right I managed to get a decent-ish gear stick shape. The idea is to use sleeve over it, and then the messy bit at the end will tuck under that little cap which screws in place but then dissolves later. So then I could put a little shifter icon thing or a logo or something set down into it, then fill it with clear epoxy to give some depth to it. Loose layup with the sleeve to see if cap fits ok: The sleeve couldnt quite go small enough to the diameter I wanted at the bottom so I had to widen it a bit. Yeah I'm wearing a dressing gown, what of it? Revised the print and just wet layup and turned out pretty sweet. It's had enough time for the epoxy to cure so now it's sitting in the bath of D-lemonine slowly turning its innards into goop. I waxed the HIPS to try block its porosity so the epoxy doenst leech into it and stop the chemical process from happening. Think I've probably got another 12-24 hours before it'll all be dissolved but looking forward to seeing how it turns out. 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 if you struggle getting it to dissolve well, put the whole shebang in a crockpot....outside 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 Its working decently now. My first bit I tried wasnt dissolving but I found the problem was that when I vac bagged the part it sucked all of the epoxy to cover all of the exposed surfaces of the HIPS as well. Woops. The good news is that once it reaches the infill section of the print it just eats it up super quick because the ratio of surface area is massive The outer layers turn to a mushy goo though that takes longer but sloshing it around to clear it off seems to work. I think I'll next try just a single outer layer or maybe just two. It doesnt really need any strength for covering with sleeve as its not being vac bagged or anything. I think vac bagging probably wouldnt work well for this process anyway as it would try suck epoxy into the infill areas. Or the vacuum would crush the infill and you'd need thicker walls that would be uneconomical to try dissolve. In any case - it's a good trickto have available for when the conditions allow it. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted September 7, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 7, 2020 Happy with the end result! I got lazy with the interface from the carbon to the steel shifter part at the bottom, and just 3d printed a sleeve. Which is a tight fit into the carbon then epoxied onto the steel shifter. But it was only 8 grams, maybe 10 with epoxy so I'm okay with that haha. Adding the lip on the bottom made for a nice finishing detail. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post NickJ Posted September 10, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted September 10, 2020 On 19/08/2019 at 20:54, NickJ said: Asked a mate to carve out some foam core for a project, he declined as he didn't want the dust through his shed. He did however have a spare machine knocking about that I was welcome to make a mess in my own shed with! Gotta get me one of these toys, so simple and easy! Cores will be used for a carbon fibre rifle stock, hopefully pics to come..... And a year later.... Had the stock layup complete quite rapidly after the cutting the core only to run out of time before the competition I was hoping to run it in, cue COVID and i've had no motivation to do the finishing touches with most comps canceled. In the last few weeks i've chipped away the final fitting and polishing that i'm finally happy with the result, not a product I would put on a shelf to sell, but 100% fit for purpose. Learnings - the model I programmed the CAM off was for a laminate timber stock, no allowance for carbon layup..... so the final is ~1mm fatter but with some careful trimming isn't too much a problem. Glueing and clamping the two halves wasn't perfect so there is a slight kink, thankfully you need to know its there to notice and doesn't seem to effect performance. So far i've only managed a few rounds down range but it does feel much more comfortable to be behind, i'm cautiously claiming a better fit and in that regard, a success. 10 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 got any more pics on how you did this? very very nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 22 hours ago, flyingbrick said: got any more pics on how you did this? very very nice work. Thanks, not too many pic of the process as its messy and picking up a camera is not too appealing! The process was just laying cloth layer by layer and wrapping with peel ply for compression, very crude and would look much better painted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted October 4, 2020 Share Posted October 4, 2020 Man that must have been a huge amount of work to get blocked out nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 5 hours ago, flyingbrick said: Man that must have been a huge amount of work to get blocked out nice. Not really, careful with wetting out and even pressure on the peel ply compression leaves a quick rub with the long block back to flat. There are a few ripples that visibly disrupt the weave but thats only cosmetic and if I was worried, nothing a coat of paint won't hide! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted November 11, 2020 Share Posted November 11, 2020 Hey guys been years since ive played with fibre glass, keen to extend part of my fibreglass front bumper so it mounts to the support bar and also help alittle with guiding airflow airflow Will post some pics tomorrow, thinking ill make a cardboard template in the shape I want and then just fibreglass over that? Open to better ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted November 14, 2020 Author Share Posted November 14, 2020 Expanding foam cut and sanded to shape works well, then if you dont want it to be stuck to the part you can wrap it in packing tape. If it's a simple 2D shape then yeah just cardboard it up! EDIT: Be mindful that cardboard might go soggy when resin soaks in? The hard part is getting it to hold the fabric against the shape while it cures if you dont have a mold or whatever. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 Yeah Cardboard will be useless. Resin will make it soggy and it will yield from the weight pretty easily. Highly suggest really thin MDF and foamboard from craft places (spotlight has it, the warehouse might too, its great, foam board is super easy to cut and sand) Also, cheap resin, mixing resin in incorrect ratios and using the wrong hardener (fast hardener on a hot day) can make the part warp and sink very badly - this is even worse if the form is flimsy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87creepin Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 Which foam in a can option is best? I see mitre10 and bunnings both sell them but not sure if dense enough.. /if they all suck I will give the spotlight foam board a go. Priced quite nicely they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Just made a purchase of some CF cloth, resin and assorted supplies. Going to try an airbox for starters, stand by for fail pics. Edit: Planning on making it in two pieces. Not setup for vacuum bagging, am planning on laying the CF much like what the guys did with the carbon 240z mentioned earlier. Plug(?) below of what I'll be making it over. Photo pre final sand/clear coat. Spent waaay too long making that out of MDF, expanding foam, fiberglass and bog so hopefully doesn't get destroyed lol. 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 This was a project from back in April's lockdown. Cut apart a stock grille and fibreglassed it up. Foolishly never took photos of it without filler or paint. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 53 minutes ago, CorollaGT said: Just made a purchase of some CF cloth, resin and assorted supplies. Going to try an airbox for starters, stand by for fail pics. Edit: Planning on making it in two pieces. Not setup for vacuum bagging, am planning on laying the CF much like what the guys did with the carbon 240z mentioned earlier. Plug(?) below of what I'll be making it over. Photo pre final sand/clear coat. Spent waaay too long making that out of MDF, expanding foam, fiberglass and bog so hopefully doesn't get destroyed lol. Have some pieces of plastic (cut up big black sack would likely work) and have them handy while you lay the CF. With sharp corners like this, you may have difficulty getting the CF to stay flat on the surface. If this is the face, push plastic on top and squeegee out the air. You'll find it works really well to keep it all sucked down tight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 Yeah sharp corners are the bane of my existence Looks good, look forward to seeing result! I've still got a love for carbon sleeve its just so good and easy to use. Every time I make something I think it gets a little bit better and easier. But I'm honing in on a super easy way to make decent-ish trumpets for ITB setup. I've been running a few 3d printed variants but think I've found best length that I can fit so make some better ones. I tried to incorporate the base part into a single piece as well but it's just easier as 2 piece. This is the dissolvable 3d print material but in this instance it's actually easier to just print it really thin and hollow and just break it all out. Trimming stuff with a razor blade while it's still tacky is a life saver 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Hmmm good point. Might hit those with the block and round them off some more if that's going to make it easier for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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