Discuss here about Yoeddynz's little Imp project...

[yoeddynz]

 

FUCK YOU Ai. It is completed! 

 

 

 

 

 

I've just got a few little bits to finish. 

[VitesseEFI]

It may be artificial but it’s definitely not intelligent…..

Any fool knows ALL Imps should have flat sixes 

[anglia4]

Perhaps the AI model is working on information from before the Yellowhammer Paradox was proven true.

[yoeddynz]

I think AI has just been hanging around on oldschool forums (because more interesting here than on myweetikfacespacebotok and it now knows that our projects never get finished.

[ThePog]

I read today the most apt description of AI; AI is the stuff that comes out of the last link in a human centipede.

[cletus]

It seems to me to just be a deluxe version of Google search, it's only as good as the information that exists on the internet already 

[yoeddynz]

I've got some AI app that came loaded on my new Samsung tablet. It's called Gemini. Interestingly it's got a strong aussie accent but when asked about this fact it denies it has an accent of any specific country.

It sounds like a bloke btw - not sure if that's standard or if Ai decided from the beginning that I would rather hear a bloke? 

 

[Roman]

It's actually really awesome news that your biggest problem is such a minor oil leak.

As that means there arent any of the way bigger problems which are possible...

You could add a capacitor to the fuel signal and it'll smooth out the needle jumping around.

No idea how to figure out what size you need, seems like a @h4nd sort of problem

[ajg193]

For the temperature gauge not reading right that is usually down to a bad earth. Maybe the sensor or other bolt between the sensor and block has built up enough resistance to give issues. 

Took us ages to figure out that one on my dad's Massey Ferguson when we couldn't get enough cranking amps into the starter. It turned out to be the big bolts holding the gearbox to the engine block

[yoeddynz]

35 minutes ago, Roman said:

You could add a capacitor to the fuel signal and it'll smooth out the needle jumping around.

Thanks man. Yeah its really only trying its best to fit into being an English car after all. I should have left it. 

As for the capacitor- that was also suggested on retrorides. Its not jumping about so much as just going up and down when I got around corners or up and down hills. I'm not that savvy on electrons other than them being little men running through pipes. They are obviously quite active when the fuel is surging about. Will the capacitor act like some hardcore sleeping pills and slow those little electron men down?

[yoeddynz]

3 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

For the temperature gauge not reading right that is usually down to a bad earth. Maybe the sensor or other bolt between the sensor and block has built up enough resistance to give issues. 

Took us ages to figure out that one on my dad's Massey Ferguson when we couldn't get enough cranking amps into the starter. It turned out to be the big bolts holding the gearbox to the engine block

I had checked the earth points and they seem fine. I've added resistance to bring the reading down so I'd figure a bad earth would have down the same by adding resistance? Its an odd one. Perhaps the Datsun sensor has always been a poor connection on the sensor and this time round I have jiggled it so making it a better connection - thus reading higher than usual.

The sensor in the goldwing engine was a random one I found and has always read very close to what the megasquirt reads so that has been no issue. It didn't seem to change after the new dash layout was installed.

[h4nd]

Perfect. No notes.

[h4nd]

50 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

Thanks man. Yeah its really only trying its best to fit into being an English car after all. I should have left it. 

As for the capacitor- that was also suggested on retrorides. Its not jumping about so much as just going up and down when I got around corners or up and down hills. I'm not that savvy on electrons other than them being little men running through pipes. They are obviously quite active when the fuel is surging about. Will the capacitor act like some hardcore sleeping pills and slow those little electron men down?

Yep, though you might be surprised how much you need. 

- What's the hot/cold resistance of the sensor?

- (just for a double check) what's the dc V across the dial when reading full? (engine running, 14.5V).

if it's less than 5.5V, bang one of these in parallel with the dial (can be away from the dial) for a first kick at the cat  

https://www.jaycar.co.nz/1f-5-5vdc-super-capacitor/p/RU6705

If it's more, jamb 2 of them in series to get the voltage rating (halves the effective capacitance) 

If you want to do it cheeeeeep, there's some in my junk bin you can have for the cost of a cup of tea when I mooch up thataway next.

[h4nd]

(sneaky double post delete)

Oh, and: https://fastled.io/

[yoeddynz]

[Tiger Tamer]

Originally it probably would have had a voltage stabilizer for the temp and fuel gauge to reduce the voltage to what the gauges required as they operated on less than 12v. But of course, that would been for smiths' gauges. Is this what you are trying to do with adding resistance. Or am I totally off the ballpark here.

[yoeddynz]

Yeah there was a voltage stabiliser for the original gauge, around 5 volts I think. Out of interest I tried it out on the new gauge and it just made it go up and down erractly. 

[h4nd]

These are a good wee V down-converter, $4. Might work there:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/electronics-photography/other-electronics/electronic-components/other/listing/5571659718

 

 

[Willdat?]

4 hours ago, h4nd said:

These are a good wee V down-converter, $4. Might work there:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/electronics-photography/other-electronics/electronic-components/other/listing/5571659718

 

 

We've had great success with these at school, pretty much foolproof.

[fuel]

Have you seen this?