yoeddynz

Discuss here about Yoeddynz's little Imp project...

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59 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Re your rear main seal fix, 

I'd pull off the whole sump and reseal that too. And it's not shown in the earliest Haynes manual, but there's supposed to be a tiny bit of sealer on the bevelled corners of the rear main cap too. (I had a few engines which still weeped after id done my darndest to.seal them.up.

then a later manual revealed that hack I'd missed.

Ahhhh... Just like a good Morris engine should be. Sweet cheers for tip. Yeah I'll do the sump to be sure and can pop a cap off and look at bearings. 

".... And that folks is where the complete and utterly expensive engine build began, leaving the little Imp to fester in the corner of the workshop, leading Alex to buy a succession of other shit old cars to see him through whilst he built the race engine of dreams... "

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7 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Oh awesome. The circular groove that the mesh cover would push into is 150mm diameter. The depth needed to clear the tweeter is 17mm if the face of the mesh is flat. Let me know if you can help and I'll ping ya some dosh. Cheers. 

Can you measure the centre to centre  of the opposite screws holding them in to the box? All the type I have sit over top of the speaker and the screw goes through the grill and the speaker screw hole and holds the whole lot in. I’m measuring about 158mm centre to centre on two pairs I have (Soundstream ones and the Pioneer ones with the 3 chrome bars across the middle), the Sony ones are slightly closer together. 

BDE873AB-7F0F-43E2-B304-EF9C420610CB.thumb.jpeg.34b26c6dd87381735230929b23ba230f.jpeg

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Wait wait wait wait - The housetruck is for sale? Do you have a buyer already lined up or will it be hitting the mass market? So many questions, so many dreams.

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Yeah it will be put out for sale in maybe November. Its still our house so when it goes we have to move into the cabin until we build a new house that is specific to our aspect in the yard. 

We had a buyer lined up but he got cold feet with the whole living on a truck thing. 

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Nice work as usual Alex! I saw you drive past the other day the Imp looks so good awesome colour choice

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20 hours ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

Can you measure the centre to centre  of the opposite screws holding them in to the box? All the type I have sit over top of the speaker and the screw goes through the grill and the speaker screw hole and holds the whole lot in. I’m measuring about 158mm centre to centre on two pairs I have (Soundstream ones and the Pioneer ones with the 3 chrome bars across the middle), the Sony ones are slightly closer together.

There's two sets of holes. The inner ones are about 142mm pcd. The outer ones are around 159mm. The speakers are pioneer.......so I am figuring that the pioneer covers you have would probably work :-)  I'll send you a PM.

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the last few months I've been down headingly lane off lower queen street, its a really eye catching colour, look forward to checking it out up close some time

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Yeah we'll do a bbq meet at ours in September. 

The imp certainly is bright eh! Sort of needs to be ready to spot when it's about as high as the hubcaps on a typical 4wd ute these days.. 

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Cherry GS100701  is the usual one have used on a few projects with good success. they are nice because you can adjust the gap with the threaded body

https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensors/7659321/

you can find them a little cheaper from overseas maybe. or you might find an equivalent on aliexpress for less.

that said you might be able to scrounge or buy an OEM style one from an efi car that uses a geartooth type crank position sensor.

e.g.

https://www.amazon.com/Crankshaft-ZonCar-0031532728-0261210170-Mercedes-Benz/dp/B07W4JZR3V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=crankshaft+position+sensor&qid=1570063554&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEc5TktGUUEwVkdRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDEwOTIxM1JHUFZVMVQzN09NRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDAyMjYyMU5HV0ZUNU9BMFk5RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

the only thing is you will need to get the datasheet info to find out if you need to put any resistors in the wiring to get it to suit the ecu - you do need to do that with the cherry sensors but it is listed in the documentation what resistance value to use. with an OEM sensor you may or may not - something you would have to figure out.

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Mitsubishi fuel injection manifold has been used on an a15 with a bit of porting work. A15 head fits on a12, with bigger flowing head, then use factory manifold with your own bits

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Wow Tom. So many bits to look at. That's my evening sorted. I'm an erring towards using the edis setup now - I reckon the Ms1 was supplied to Rob setup for that. I'll plug the ecu into my laptop and run it up to see what's what. Figuring is already been loaded with a firmware, hopefully extra code. 

From what I've read the edis stuff is pretty reliable. 

Grant? - I've been offered an a15 for $100. I think the complete engine. I cw no idea on its condition but worth a punt at that price. But I'm also waiting on someone else who might have some spare parts. Luckily I have two twin side draught inlet manifolds to hand - one for my early round port engine and one for the later oval port heads (Including a15 as well?) 

I'm sort of hesitant to split this engine as its running so well for an unknown unit. However if I was to get a spare head then I can tidy it up, new guides, valves etc if need be and use it to mock up the inlet.   But I'd also have make a new set of headers to suit the different head and stud pattern :-(

Also quite interested to see what a straight swap to injection would be like without touching the engine.  

 

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Ha- yeah I had found that a while back. So much info on the techwiki datto1200 site.

Sadly I think my WOF guy would spot a twink head on my Datsun engine and say" no - you're pushing it now Alex" :-)

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