yoeddynz

Discuss here about Yoeddynz's little Imp project...

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Is this manual any good to you Alex? I'm currently sorting through my grandfathers hoard of Automotive manuals & that was amongst it. 

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Oh hey.. yeah it could well have snippets of info that the Haynes manual doesnt have. I'd just bought another 'intereurope' or something manual for $1 on TM the other day but sadly it had even less info. I do however always find it interesting reading them anyways.

Are you going to the Nats?

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34 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

 

Note the factory carefully installed bags of foam, designed to absorb sound...and moisture...

P1050537_(960x1280).jpg

 

 

I pulled bags of this stuff out of both my Triumphs too. It looked like yellow wool?

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Yeah I know the stuff you're on about. This stuff is foam based... and of most excellent absorbancy one must add. 

Also noted when I cut the guard open.. lots of Slaters hiding in there.  Sadly.. many if not most of them met their doom when I sliced the panel off. All cooked by the hot sparks from the grinder. Yum.

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those bags of foam are a creative self-destruction device

as if the moisture build up in the enclosed panels wasn't going to be enough of an iron oxide factory

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1 hour ago, yoeddynz said:

Ldt28 imp?

Wow :-D

With tow bar. 

For all your towing needs... or I have a surf with a 2LT stashed away 

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That 2LT would be handy for making our van into even more of a 'head on' death trap than it already is! :-)

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I always have a hard time butt welding new steel to old with the MIG. Hat's off to you sir for making it look so easy and clean. 

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Yeah its tricky alright eh. But a grinder will be our our best friend :-)  The newer invertor type mig welder I bought a few years ago works much sweeter for 'zapping' too.  I try to concentrate the zap onto the thicker steel and then do a little push towards the thin original steel as I release the trigger..if you can picture what I mean.

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Yeah makes sense. The hardest but for me is as soon as it makes any sort of hole it just instantly runs away on you and turns to shit. Then it's all about trying to fill holes in old thin English tin and that's never fun. 

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Oh yeah totally know what you mean. An old car resto is a proper job if it aint got a few hedgehogs on the back of the repairs. I sometimes end up laughing so hard in my helmet as I chase a hole in the thin stuff. It almost becomes a challenge...

"fuck you little hole... I'm going to defeat you! You ain't getting away on me.. I am not going to just do the right thing and chop this area out. I'm just gonna keep zapping away..! "

 

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Suggest buying a cheap Mitsubishi to try keep on the road

That should be every rust repairers apprenticeship

 

Old English steel is great and thick, where it still exists

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19 hours ago, tortron said:

Suggest buying a any old Japanese car to try keep on the road

That should be every rust repairers apprenticeship

 

Old English steel is great and thick, where it still exists

 

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You should build a bigger bender. Mine is 1.8m between the hinges. Then you can do a whole sill in one go. 

 Cost only about $100 in bits too

It something like this, but I opted for a stronger hinge design

 

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Its been an intention for a while but there's so many other things I want to build before hand. I'd love some rollers too. And an English wheel while I'm there. Plus a mechanical planisher. 

But actually id rather be building other stuff instead of rust repairs. It's fun but pretty nasty dirty work. But pays the bills right now. 

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English wheel is really the best tool you can buy.

Maintanaince and keeping the wheels spotless is key with a wheel though.

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