toy-mota Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Hey im up to the stage of fitting the fuel system in my crown.now my ms65 had a carbie motor so no return line. weres the best place to weld in a boss? I was thinking around the side/top (were the white lines are) .was going to tap into the filler pipe but shes a tight fit around the body . what is the best fuel pump,fuel pressure reg and filter to use? I want something that is going to last but i am on a budget,also motor is staying N/A so wont be needing anything large.also thinking external fuel pump and mount inside the chassis rail . Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carsnz123 Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 If it were me I'd be using the i tank fuel pump out of a JZX Chaser or JZS Crown. I think they have the feed and return lines on the external part. As long as you're keen for slight tank mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 For a return line, I would suggest putting it into that access plate 100%. Fuel tanks suck to weld, and the danger of making it explode are super high. I welded my escort fuel tank and it was a nightmare. Made it go boom after what we thought was thorough cleaning, although no damage to tank or people luckily. Also the material cracked around the welds, ended up sending it to a radiator repair shop and they spent hours soldering it up I used a tomei fuel reg from aliexpress, it has been legit. My car currently also has an aliexpress bosch 090 fuel pump. Can I also suggest that you do a good bunch of research before committing to some of the components, as the price of fittings/adapters can get a bit crazy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 I just put a T in the single original line on the Starlet, bigger fitting on the feed side and as big as I could fit on the tank source. It's not ideal but I've had no issues with it. Haven't yet had any issues with tank not being baffled either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toy-mota Posted January 12, 2018 Author Share Posted January 12, 2018 Il look into an internal pump. Once the tank is bolted back up theres little room between the floor and tank ive washed the tank out and removed the sender and bung ,also put a flame to it and nothing happened,the tank has sat without gas in it for a few years now,but better to be safe. china copies are fine? Id hate the thought of them leaking or crapping out on me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 I carry an extra fuel pump, but havent needed it in the couple years it has been converted. if its tight up under the car, I would spend the time cutting and welding the body of the car over welding the fuel tank 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 and fuel pressure reg has been fine, it has a gauge which has also been fine, have not adjusted it since installing https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20180112114510&SearchText=tomei+fuel+pressure+regulator and the price is right. tbh I think china AN fittings arent too bad either these days 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carsnz123 Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 9 hours ago, peteretep said: Made it go boom after what we thought was thorough cleaning, although no damage to tank or people luckily. sounds like you might have needed a change of underwear though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 When welding tanks, run car exhaust through them for a while. The carbon dioxide displaces oxygen. If it were me, I would go in tank. Nissans have a lush plastic surge tank that the pump sits in. Usually clip in at the bottom. And take a walbro pump. Hard part of intank is getting wires in there tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toy-mota Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 May of scored a ms65 that has a return line factory in the tank have looked at the nissan ones seedy .350z sound right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carsnz123 Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 You need to buy that MS112 package with the manual sedan while you're at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 I actually got mine out of a Nissan pulsar at pick apart. Was like 60 bucks for the tank. Unfortunately photo bucket fuck up my crown wagon build thread where I did it. Will go get pics and post here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 8Hmmm. Would seem I got lucky and my tank had a return. However heres some pics. I ended up welding the pulsar flange into the top of the tank so I could fit the Nissan pump, and then made a plate for the top I got @Steelies to make up some nylon bushes that go through a 3mm thick plate I welded into the side of the tank, that with the combo of o rings allowed me to run power wires to the tank. However on my crown sedan I bought a fuel proof wiring bulkhead boss thst seems to work ok. Hope pictures make sense. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 The last two pics of this post are an example of the wiring bolts I was referencing 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toy-mota Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 On 1/16/2018 at 07:38, Carsnz123 said: You need to buy that MS112 package with the manual sedan while you're at it. Haha i think one crown from there will be enough. Although that rusty coupe would make some nice garden art. cheers for the help/pics seedy. Il look into this abit more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carsnz123 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 1 minute ago, toy-mota said: Haha i think one crown from there will be enough. N+1 M8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 a lot to be said for running the reg in the tank even and not needing a return line. works fine if you are going to be tuning the ecu anyway and are not looking at running lots of boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 I was very close to running a returnless system as testament mentions, a few websites scared me off the idea but since I've been working on race cars for a few months, a lot of them run it and are running 600+ hp. I also dont recommend putting a t piece in the supply to the pump, you'll recycle the fuel heating it more and more each time until one day it'll vapor lock and be a cunt to figure out What I did end up doing was running my original supply line as the return, and drilling a hole and fitting a bulkhead an connector to an external pump and new supply line. Now I'm not saying this is the right way to do things either but it was very easy and seems to work alright. I didn't put a lot of effort in as I'm likely to fit an ally drop tank and surge tank setup at some point in the future 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 On 1/22/2018 at 13:01, Testament said: a lot to be said for running the reg in the tank even and not needing a return line. works fine if you are going to be tuning the ecu anyway and are not looking at running lots of boost. Yes but its a lot nicer to tune when your fuel pressure differential is stable (As in, your FPR is manifold pressure referenced) As it keeps your injector characterization more stable. In which case you obviously need your regulator near your manifold. Admittedly I'm fussy but I'd only run returnless if I had 3d deadtime data from the injector manufacturer. (And the ECU capability to use this) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 That's really only an issue with boosted cars. How much lag would there be with a 3-4m reference line to the fpr? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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