Adoom

Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

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So I initially bought this for the front guard, for my other project. Adoom's 1976 Triumph 2500 TC.

But despite looking like shit on the surface, it's waaaaaaaaaay less rusty than my 2500. So I think I will move my V8 plans over to this one.

I still reserve judgement until I remove the windows and get the engine out and I can see the firewall.

It's the original paint, which is thin and failing.

The doors have a little bit of surface rust, but they are all solid, even along the bottom!

No rust in the heater intake box, thing.

No rust under any of the wheel arches.

No rust under the petrol flap.

No rust in the gutters.

Sills look solid, I still need to have a look inside them with my china 'endoscope'.

I've pulled the carpets out and no rust in the front corners of the footwells.

No rust where the bottom of the front panel meets the guards.

I've pulled back as much of the rubber/foam sponge from the firewall as I can and there looks like there might be a little bit of rust there.

 

The bad. The front panels are a bit mangled. I'm hoping I can get them back into the right shape. I've got the 2500 to use as a template.

The OMG. Wof failure sheet said "check fuel tank for leak". I found the leak! The big hose for the filler neck has a crack at the bottom, so when you turn right with a full tank or just put fuel in it, it leaks petrol INSIDE THE CAR! You can see in the boot and under the rear passenger side seat area has no underseal and the other side does, because the petrol has just washed it away.IMAG0468.thumb.jpg.6e8886235828a0e85dd5a473e3b38933.jpg

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I have started stripping the car, but I need to keep it drivable/movable and mostly watertight until I can fit it in the garage. That won't be until the house is finished, which apparently might be around the end of Jan, and I can move all my house shit out of the garage.

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So after losing a little blood and bending a fingernail back on itself, I managed to cut, hack and tear the rubber foam pad off the firewall without removing the engine.

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This is the only bit of rust! Some of it is probably just the mud that caused it. All the orange shit is glue.

I also used my AliExpress bore scope and had a look in the sills. I didn't see anything bad in there. I will still cut out a bit of the inner wheel arch that will open up the end of the sills where they usually rust. If it's okay, I can just weld it back in. This way I don't need to cut the guard, just to have a look.

I also used the bore scope to have a look inside the rear guards and down the bottom of the c-pillars  . And all okay!

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The RockAuto timing belt/water pump for the 1UZ finally arrived after a month or so. via Belgium?! 1/3 - 1/2 the price of buying it locally, including the freight! And it's all brand name stuff.

I started changing that tonight. The engine has been in bits waiting for the timing belt for some time. So I just had to turn the crank to the right place and pull the belt off.

Well, good thing I did change the water pump, cause the old one had seized.

 

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Timing belt and water pump installed. New not-cracked distributor rotors installed. Cleaned covers and stuff installed, everything was covered in waxy oily stuff.

I've hacked up the tensioner and hydraulic fan pump cause I only need the alternator.

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But to remove the water pump, you need to remove the thermostat housing from the 'water bridge'. It's only held in with two bolts and a big o-ring. Easy, right?

WRONG! Mine was held in with two bolts, an o-ring..... and a bunch of aluminium oxide, so I was unable to remove it. I had to remove the water bridge too.

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It goes here.

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So now I need the gaskets for the water bridge. Rockauto don't list them. Amazon have them, but don't ship to NZ. Hopefully Toyota can supply them separately, not in a kit.

I did eventually get the thermostat housing off the water bridge. I had to put it in the vice and use a bit of wood as a lever/hammer so I didn't damage the aluminium. It took lots of small wiggling and oil and WD40 and levering and banging and twisting. 

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The front pulley for the 1UZ had a bit of surface rust and the powdercoating was chipping off in places. I thought of wire brushing it, but I already had a bucket set up for electrolysis that I had been playing with.

I put some wire through the center of the pulley and hung it in the bucket. I let it go for half an hour or so and it was looking good, but it didn't seem to be doing much to the pulley grooves. Eventually I realised it was because the inner and outer part of the pulley are bonded with rubber. DUH! So I just wrapped a bit more wire on.

I left it for an hour or so and it was looking much better. I then left it going when I went to bed.... then went to work. ~20 hours later I checked it again. No rust and it had also lifted off most of the powdercoating too! I scrubbed it with a plastic brush and clean water and it came up clean as.

It got some flash rusting so I put some phosphoric acid on it for a few minutes before washing with water and drying it.

Now it looks like this.

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I chucked some hammerite smooth black on it cause I had some. It looks better than it did.

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I put two coats on. The finish is not the best, but it's not rusty and it's all one colour. You can only see the brush marks from close up anyway.

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I also picked up the water bridge gaskets from Toyota today. So now the water bridge and thermostat housing are installed.

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Yes, I dropped it and broke the water temp gauge sender plug. It probably won't work with whatever gauge I use anyway.

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Modifying the throttle body to remove the traction control butterfly bits.

I cut off the TRC-TPS mount and power filed it smooth. The other side I didn't cut anything cause it has the throttle cable mount and return spring.

I was originally going to get the holes tig welded, but then I thought of just using araldite/epoxy. I keyed(scratched the shit out of it with a small file) the holes so the epoxy has something to bond to then cleaned it with wax and grease remover. Then put a bit of tape over the inside end of the hole and just gooped the stuff in there. It self levels a bit, so ends up with a smooth finish.

One side is set enough to remove the tape and flip over. The other side I just poured. It's the super strong stuff so takes hours/days to completely set.

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And I put the inlet manifold on the other day.

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I've ordered some new platinum NGK plugs and cams cover gaskets and injector seals(mine have gone hard) from Rock Auto because it's ridiculously cheaper than buying them here.

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So the house is finally finished, which meant the house crap that was taking up valuable space in the garage moved into the house! This morning, I did some rearranging then wrangled the triumph in. It was 34 degrees.... I had to take several breaks to mop up the sweat.

 

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I took the 2000TC engine out of the white one.

It's filthy. It "ran", badly. It didn't smoke, a lot, or make bad noises, that I noticed. The cable linkages to the carbs were all loose. There are bad frayed wires in the distributor. Could be why it ran so bad.

Anyone want it?

 

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I'm thinking that it would be easier to cut the straight panels off the yellow one and weld them to the white one... rather than try straighten the mangled front panels on the white one....

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I tried pulling out the seam using a pair of vise grips attached to a slide hammer. Unfortunately, the grips(Even when REALLY TIGHT) would pull off the panel before moving the panel.

The most effective method of "roughing out" the panel was to use a bit of wood and a big mallet from the back side.

After bashing on it a bit I thought I had better find some way to measure my progress. 

I made a profile gauge...

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When I had stopped for the day, I got this far.

 

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The largest gap is about 5mm now. It started off about 10-15mm.

The impact looks like it has pushed in and up, so that little 'shelf, behind my arrows,' is sloping up towards the back when it should be just about flat.

It's awkward to hammer down because there is not much room to swing the hammer.

 

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So I got the front panels to what I thought was a reasonable condition.

Then I tried to fit the grill. And the space is not tall enough by 10mm. The front seam also still needs to come forward by about 5-7mm along much of it's length.

I tried using blocks of wood and a long lever, but I've kinda given up trying to make it the right shape. I mean, I'm going to cut up the rear end of the yellow one to trial fit the nissan subframe anyway.... Why not cut it some more.

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I used my die grinder with a carbide burr, showered myself with tiny metal chips. I ground away metal from the spotwelds on the panels I am not reusing, so the bits I am using have no holes in them. I will do the opposite on the white car, then drill new holes to 'spot' weld it with the mig.

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Doing it this way means I have easy access to the back of some dents. And I can rust proof and paint the backside of all those panels before I weld them back in.

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This time I added the overalls and the beanie to the safety glasses, ear muffs and dust mask. So now I'm not entirely covered with tiny metal chips.

So I did some more die grinding to remove the front of the white one. I left a wide strip of metal beside the seam because the donor panel is rusty there.

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The lighting is not the best for these photos...

It took five minutes to fix the dent that was here, now that I can access the back of it.

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I have greatly improved the dent in the wing. Still needs work though.

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I used one of those abrasive pad things on the grinder to clean the paint off so the spot welds were easier to find.

But I could not fit it in some places, so I used the cup brush of death.

It caught the corner of a panel and pulled it self out of my hands. So I held on better.... And it caught on the same corner and ripped it self out of my hands and fell on the floor instantly eating a rag and the power lead for my heat gun then jamming before I could pull the plug out.

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Kinda my own fault for having a messy floor.

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So I offered the engine up. And it's tight.

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I have since removed the heat shield thing from the alternator and got myself a little more space. I might grind down the lug the shield bolts to too. The alternator mounts are not adjustable, it can't get closer to the block anyway.

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I'm going to have to make 'log' exhaust manifolds. The engine came with some shiny stainless extractors, but there's no way they will fit.

I'll have to remote mount the oil filter and remove that filter housing, it's in the way of the steering rack.

 

The major problem I have yet to solve is the front alloy part of the sump is entirely in the way of the rack.

 

So, recently, when I have been going in the garage, I find that there are heaps of dead flies. I think they must be getting trapped and dying?

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The engine is now as far back and as high as is practical, so...

Hack hack hack. Don't worry, I have another.

Now the cross member bolts on again and clears the sump. But the steering rack needs to be, much, lower to fit.

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I've been keeping an eye out for a set of these in 15". Some appeared on Tardme last week and they were in driving distance to collect too.

No one else bid.... so I probably paid too much.

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The centre needs to be gold.

I wanted 15" so I can put bigger brakes on the front.

 

I also made a start on the jig to narrow the rear subframe by 145mm.

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The subframe will be welded to the two inner lengths of angle. And the two outer bits of angle are parallel and welded to the bench.

Once I think the subframe is sufficiently braced and welded. I will cut a section out of the middle of the two inner bits of angle.

Then I will be able to chop bits out of the middle of the subframe and 'just' slide the two halves closer together while still keeping them aligned.

But I ran out of mig wire. On a weekend.

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Hack hack hack.

 

Everything is now positioned where it needs to live .

Still more cutting required at the back to make room for the diff mount. The way I thought of to do it is cut a big round hole, centred on the stud, and weld a bit of thick wall tubing in there to put the strength back in.

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I will fabricate a completely new cross member here for the front diff mounts. Modifying the original will end up so hacked about it will look shit.IMAG0734.thumb.jpg.962382f10222e108dd7089e67eecae8d.jpgIMAG0735.thumb.jpg.966a1d4f605285346c020087f95c9239.jpg

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