Popular Post antz Posted December 11, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted December 11, 2017 I just got this Rambler transported up from Christchurch last week, so at this point the plans are to actually drive a car and enjoy it for once, instead of having it in a never-ending project mode. I'm sure a full body restore + respray will come in the next 6-12 months but for now my goal is to lower it and just drive it around for a few months at least. So this thread won't be anything mindblowing, just keeping a classic running and giving it a tidyup in the near future. It's a 1966 AMC Rambler Classic 770, running stock (even matching numbers) 6 cyl 232 with 3 on the tree. NZ new, first registered in Christchurch, and it's been there up until last week. 3rd owner had it since 76 until 2010, and then last owner before me only seemed to take it out for WOFs and drive it about 50-100ks between warrants. The paint is original, pretty rough but very very clear of rust (for a car of this age). I suspect I'll fail a wof for some surface rust around A pillars, but that'll be a good reason to strip it all down and do a full panel/paint. I went to rip the suspension out of it to try and match it to something a bit more common, and thanks to the good people on this forum I found out that this is running "Trunnion" front suspension which requires a purpose-made clamp and using car's own weight to compress it by jacking the opposing rear corner. Although now I've had someone in a Rambler Facebook group tell me how to pull out the springs without it, but I'd rather not risk my life for the sake of sussing out the right part so will do it properly. So this will have to sit this high for a bit longer until I sort out this clamp. It runs drives / has WOF, Reg. Well, it drove when I dropped it at the transporters week and a half ago in Chch, got here empty on gas and flat battery. I suspect it was left running, ran out of gas, sat there for a bit and fried my points. The points are gone, so I'm replacing them and the rotor at the same time (picking them up tomorrow). Will then blow the fuel line through just in case and will see how it starts. A bit annoying but small price to pay to get this beauty up here. I'm the 5th owner, this is the first time I've owned a car of this age where I had the original ownership paper, and the plates and engine matched. So the ownership cert had to go in a frame, pretty anal I know, but I don't know if this will happen again so might as well make the most of it: There seem to be bugger all of these around, trying to find any parts for them all shops seem to try and juggle between other models of AMCs, so ill start a list of all parts that seem to fit this particular model, and if anyone happens to come across one of these in the future and needs parts, at least there will be a reference of what parts to get: Ignition Points - BOSCH GD 501C Distributor - Cardone 84-1646 or Cardone 301646 Suspension Front shocks: XA Falcon (TBC) Rear shocks: LH Torana (TBC) Front springs: VB-VK Commodore (TBC) Rear springs: ? will find out 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antz Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 Just got the replacement dizzy - the old one had multiple issues so it made sense to just replace the entire thing. Hoping to chuck it in this weekend and get it running, fingers crossed will be able to take it for a cruise on Sunday. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antz Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 New Dizzy, new coil and new leads. Got someone who knows what they're doing to actually tune it properly for once instead of me learning as I go. WOF is due in March, and I don't think it'll pass easy, so I just want to drive it until I'll inevitably have to take it off the road to fix up the rust and whatever else they'll find. But so far it runs really well. Taking it for a decent spin now, hopefully won't be posting a pic of it on the back of a towtruck later this arvo. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antz Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 Took it up the road to test it out, didnt go far, seems to go pretty good. Might venture out a bit further next weekend. But man it sits high, gonna have to sort out those munted AMC spring clamps, pull those springs out sit it on it's ass. It's 187mm at the lowest point from body to the ground. So that gives me 3 inches easy and it still wont hit 100m. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antz Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 Took it to Kumeu last week - went all good, temperature didnt go above half. Today got these whitewalls sorted, cheap as at STA parts, seem very decent for the price. Managed to drop the profile from 75 to 65, and width from 185 to 175, which is what I was after so pretty happy. Plus I've never had a matching spare in any of my cars, so decided to do it this time. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antz Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Finally got around to making up hooks for the trunnion suspension to take the front springs out. Used m10 threaded rods, and 3mm mild steel plate to make hooks. Feels pretty solid but what I'll do is once I jack it up, and release the spring saddles on these hooks, I'll give them a bit of a bash around while it's still inside there and can't go anywhere, so if anything fails itll be still in there. Will definitely be chaining the hell out of it as well while winding it down to release the spring tension, this is gonna be pretty dodgy. Cant wait to get these springs out of there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antz Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Yeah nah, have had a look at some posts of people snapping spring compressors, I think I'm gonna scrap this shit, and redo it with something substantially thicker, and won't weld to rods, instead will weld to the tube that's secured with nuts. Will also use 5mm plate to make hooks. Its cheap enough, I'm not in any hurry, better do this properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antz Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 Ok got new M14 rods, also looked online and seems one guy that makes these hooks uses countersunk screws as hooks, which makes perfect sense since they're the right shape. The bottom hooks I'm making from two 2.5mm corner pieces, this doubles the amount of weld that holds it in place. It's definitely looking a lot stronger than the first attempt anyway. Here are the new rods above the old ones for comparison: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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