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d.p.n.s mk3 discussion


d.p.n.s

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I'd say while you have it at this stage with it on the spit it should be easy enough to drill the original mount spot welds out and shift them back a bit to better match up with the box. Then you can make a straight across cross member and make everything nice and strong. 

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have had people in the same situation who have added another mount in line with the gearbox mount to strengthen the offset crossmember, and others who have moved/ made new mounts in the tunnel so the crossmember can be straight

the test I use is pretty basic, I grab the driveshaft or gearbox, if i can flex it up and down much, it needs sorting.

 

 

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Just now, Hurmeez said:

I'd say while you have it at this stage with it on the spit it should be easy enough to drill the original mount spot welds out and shift them back a bit to better match up with the box. Then you can make a straight across cross member and make everything nice and strong. 

i did think that but it would have to come off the spit...motor and box back in ...cut mounts to fit further back and weld them up...(still an option as i want them back in at somepoint to do the tunnel and a few other things.

or i could make 2 small support back and weld them to the chassis further back ....now

 

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2 minutes ago, cletus said:

have had people in the same situation who have added another mount in line with the gearbox mount to strengthen the offset crossmember, and others who have moved/ made new mounts in the tunnel so the crossmember can be straight

the test I use is pretty basic, I grab the driveshaft or gearbox, if i can flex it up and down much, it needs sorting.

 

 

wow that is a pretty basic test but i would imagine it would give you all the info you need.

as per my comment to Hurmeez^   the easiest way at this point would be 2 small support brackets further back welded to the chassis 

 

cheers man

 

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That's a good point. Personally I'd use your current setup as a jig (so to speak) to make two new standalone mounts and a new cross member. That way you don't need to put the motor and box back in and you can do away with the extra mounts at the same time. 

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1 minute ago, Hurmeez said:

That's a good point. Are you thinking the two you make will work along with the current ones and have four mounting points, or will the two you make replace the originals entirely? Personally I'd use your current setup as a jig (so to speak) to make two new standalone mounts and a new cross member. That way you don't need to put the motor and box back in and you can do away with the extra mounts at the same time. 

very good point...and highly doable at this point.

cheers mate

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3 minutes ago, Hurmeez said:

Those dimpled holes look stellar man! You've done a fantastic job on that whole area.

thankd man...

I wanted to do all the rust work before i start on fab work... but it has to be done and its a welcome brake from rust

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1 minute ago, d.p.n.s said:

thankd man...

I wanted to do all the rust work before i start on fab work... but it has to be done and its a welcome brake from rust

Preaching to the choir here mate. It's transitioning back to the rust that's the killer.

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5 minutes ago, Hurmeez said:

Preaching to the choir here mate. It's transitioning back to the rust that's the killer.

to be honest  its the bog and sanding i hate the most...dont mind the rust..love the fab....hate the the fuller sanding shit...love the final paint prep and love the painting.....hate the buffing lol

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2 minutes ago, Valiant said:

Wow have you splashed out on some sheet metal tools Dan? 

Looking flash mate!

i bought a few things after xmas mate as up until then i was still bending steel over the edge of my bench and i wanted to see what i can do with half way decent tools...so bought a cheap bead roller ,folder and a 1"dimple die (didnt think i would use much else and not cheap).and a 12ton press.

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I was just looking at your transmission cross member dilemma.

Leave the crossmember where it is and work in reverse back to the body making a new body mount out of 3mm with a nice big reinforcing plate welded to the floor before you start. 

When it's done cut the forward and back bits of the mount off.

Presto, crossmember stays in the right place and doesn't look so industrial.

My 2 cents.

*Edit*

New sheet metal tool pics please especially folder.

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2 minutes ago, Valiant said:

I was just looking at your transmission cross member dilemma.

Leave the crossmember where it is and work in reverse back to the body making a new body mount out of 3mm with a nice big reinforcing plate welded to the floor before you start. 

When it's done cut the forward and back bits of the mount off.

Presto, crossmember stays in the right place and doesn't look so industrial.

 

New sheet metal tool pics please especially folder.

for the cross member mate....pretty much the plan.

as for the tools....eastwood 8" bead roller .. the folder was the cheapest i could find on trademe (and it was shit..had to modify it to make it bend a decent edge.) think i have some pics

and the dimple die was made by one of our members as a side line

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Just now, Valiant said:

I think I brought one of those folders, then thew it into the steel skip at work.

A nice 1.2m one would be awesome to own.

your not wrong mate its around 700mm long and the 1st decent bit i wanted to fold was 810 so had to do it at work any way.

i would love a sold one around 1.5m but this will do for what i need.

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