Esky_addict Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 So long story short I bunged an old 173 into a hq project I have to get it moving reregistered etc. it was running like a sewing machine then over a very short period of time it started to run rough as like it was running on 5 idled mint though, now not so much. Tank had some stale fuel in it when i got it tipped as much out as would come out and chucked In 20litres fresh stuff to dilute it, ran most of that through just generally idling around house moving around garage etc. Then it started missing a bit under revs and was starting to pick some shit up from bottom of tank could see it in fuel pump so i drained tank and chucked another 20l in it. Still no good spark looks good nothing's changed, blew carby out and tonight done a compression test 165 134 165 168 150 152 I know these aren't ideal but even the 134 is still above ranges stated in manual. You fellas reckon this would be my problem or should it still run alright with these numbers? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73crownwagon Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Shit points? Or running electronic dizzy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esky_addict Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 points leads plugs and coil was new very recently and cars done like 2kms on road old dizzy, good point though i forgot to check gap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 If not points/condensor, it could possibly be your distributor has slipped in its mounting and the timing is off. It could just be that one of the new ignition bits you fitted is bung. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esky_addict Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 can't really be new bits as they were fitted when motor went in, condenser maybe? how can I check that? no obvious leaks rechecked all manifold bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73crownwagon Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 To me sounds more like carb issues. Running alright at idle then running crap under load sounds like jets. Being a person who has owned a few of them they always have carb problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Have you checked the fuel filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esky_addict Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 checked filter, doesn't idle anymore so thought shit in idle circuit just opened it up and looked again. good thing is doesn't look compression related, leaning towards electrical now just had running at around 1500rpm with a miss then sort of cleared itself ran mint for couple seconds, dropped it off to idle and it idled with a slight miss for about 10 seconds then just died, very inconsistant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
66gt Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Probably just needs a good blast down a straight Southland country road to clear all the crap out of it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esky_addict Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 wrong coil maybe should it be ballast or non ballast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threeonthetree Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 Quite possibly the coil. All the catalogues recommend a Coil compatible with a ballast resistor. However I have very rarely seen a red six that still has one fitted. Measure the voltage at the input to the coil before, during and after cranking. My guess is that it has a non-ballasted ignition circuit with a constant 12V and that you have a ballast resistor type coil which has been damaged by the constant 12V supply. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esky_addict Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 I put the original back in it loom in and it had never been modified. So still has resistor wire fitted coil is a "C80 COIL 12V NON BALLAST COIL 4 6 CYL" so looks like the wrong one aye did run mint for a while, buggered the points? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 Stale fuel kills spark plugs. Seen it, had to replace or sandblast plugs. Pull the plugs and look at the white insulator. If they are not white but shiney grey, that's your problem. Can't even scrape it off with a knife. The coating is all the additives they put in fuel not burning off due to not enough heat. Do a stationary radiator load test to clear the plugs. Or put new ones in it. Also remove the fuel tank and run a steam cleaner through it, for at least 5 minutes, enough to get the tank hot. This will realease the additives that have soaked into the metal. Done it before, works. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esky_addict Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 you beauty I tried everything even had plugs out for a look and a clean as they were a bit fouled, after reading that I cleaned them with wire brush and she's purring again now bloody rapt. stale fuel must of sat on top and only gave issues after using up the fresh stuff. It was fine then It was away for a few days while getting rooflining done and got it back running like poo basically. Had me guessing i wouldn't think baked up plugs would cause a backfire like that it was backfiring at both ends under load. and would run then just drop and die randomly, 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esky_addict Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Bump. These coils get me every time i need a new one. Holden still has factory resistor wire, went into BNT to get a new coil there options were C-80 or C-80r, I grabbed a C-80 thinking oh well if its not the right one ill just get a resistor to chuck in there but.... Does the R mean they are internally resisted or they require an external resistor? I'm thinking now I'm running a 12v coil with reduced voltage hopefully causing my miss under load/acceleration Edit. lol just reread thread so yeah basically what threeontree said but opposite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Measure the resistance across the primary circuit of the old coil. Coils that don't require a ballast (C-80/GT40 etc) have 3 ohms resistance and ones that are externally ballasted (C-80R/GT40R) have 1.5 ohms. Note - it may be K-ohms. I can't remember it's been fucking years since I've needed to measure one and I don't have my multi-meter in front of me to see what setting I normally put it to when testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Also those values are approx - it could be somewhere between 2.4 - 3.8 ohms or 1.2 - 1.9 ohms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Looks like the C80R is the one to run with external ballast (resistor wire) https://www.recarb.com.au/Fuelmiser-Ignition-Coil-C80R-Universal-unresistored-distributor-spark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esky_addict Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Sweet so I should be able to put a 12v jumper on there to sort it temporarily aye. Car didnt come with original coil someone had BIG plans for it years ago and striped the thing bare so was missing the odd bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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