Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "KP61R"

Recommended Posts

So old engine is now out of the car, so time to work out what it weighed.

  • 144.91 kg - 3SGE Beams Gen 5 with lightweight flywheel (6kg), Exedy HD clutch, sq engineer Alternator bracket, echo/yaris alternator, sq engineering slim line water housing, water lines at back of head chopped, top cover chopped, altezza engine mounts, no oil, no intake, no exhaust.
  • 38 kg - J160 with cross member, gear lever + knob, slave cylinder, no oil
  • 9.48 kg - Stainless 4-2-1 Headers went back just past firewall
  • 7 kg - Blacktop throttles, SQ Engineering Adapter plate, Toda 75mm trumpets, Standard Altezza rubber spacer, and standard Altezza engine to rubber spacer plate, steel bracket for quad vacuum manifold, vacuum manifold and idle up valve and piper cross filter and fibreglass backing plate.

So in Total:

  • 161.39 kg Engine + Intake + headers 
  • 182.91 kg Engine + gearbox 
  • 189.91 kg Engine + Intake + gearbox 
  • 199.39 kg Engine + Intake + headers  + gearbox 

I honestly wasn't expecting it to be that high.




  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Up above I mentioned the stock water pump housing was 4.8kgs

It's also a huge chunk of metal, and has a idler pulley down low in an awkward place.

You can find AC/PS eliminator kits like this one.



The issue is it puts the alternator even lower and I'm going to have a cross member there.

So looking at the options I decided to go with a water plate kit

This allows me to get rid of a lot of weight, run a lighter alternator, and keep it all away from the cross member.


I chose the older k-tuned kit which doesn't support the K series alternator, only because it was slightly cheaper.

I chose to only get the plate and the alternator bracket and pully. (not the water pump) as when I contacted K-Tuned they commented they had only used it in drag applications, and hadn't tested it in a road race application.


So why use an older alternator? 

Alternator Weights:

  • K20a - 5.68kg
  • B18 - 4.64kg
  • D15 - 4.9kg

Cause they are slightly lighter!

Now ideally I would have gone with a B18 alternator but the shaft on it was too small for the pulley.

So D15 it was, however it wasn't a straight fit, I had to clearance the top of the alternator slightly to fit. But the other advantage was the plug is the same as the K20 alternator.


Sticks out a fair way, would have been nice to have it closer, but can't have everything.


Chose a Davies Craig EWP 115 (alloy 8140)


Australian made and with the Aussie dollar pretty good to NZ and shipping prices makes sense to go localish.



Only annoying thing is they don't have mounting points, they can just be held up by the hosing, however will have to see how that looks when I go to mount it.

Otherwise you can buy this bracket:



The pump can be PWM controlled, so i will do this via the LinkECU through a PWM relay, so it will be pulsed on an off to control the flow depending on the temperature.


So with this change I've cleared up some space, dropped 5kg and freed up some HP from the engine.


  • Like 7

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Next challenge was the intake manifold.

With the engine rotated around into RWD config the throttle body points directly at the firewall.

This is where you have so many options off the shelf as it's all been done before.

You can buy an adapter plate to fit an F20c (S2000) intake manifold to the K motors, but they look terrible so I didn't want to go down that track.




You could go Quad Throttle Bodies (with multiple options from different manufacturers, swoon...)






Kinsler mega dollar ones...



But this conversion is already going to cost a fair bit, so that can be an option for a later day...


So I ended up with the Skunk 2 Ultra Street Intake Manifold






It has a rotatable plenum cover, which can be removed if you want to go crazy and port the runners and you can also buy spacers for it to increase the chamber size.

Supposedly it also gives 20hp over stock manifolds.

It also matches up perfectly to a 74mm throttle body (standard for the engine is 65mm) so I didn't need to port anything and it saved a lot of time.

The downside is the quality of the casting is not super great with some imperfections and I had to port match the thermal gasket to the head, which was disappointing as it should just be cut correctly from factory.









The other thing to note is the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV)on a Euro R is NOT the same as other K20'a Type R engines, i.e it won't bolt up, so I got an Integra R which fits..


  • Like 6

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Passenger floor was a bit gnarly so that's been redone, 


Now have space to mount he muffler higher, will take the exhaust out through the sill as I was occasionally collecting it on kerbs.



New Radiator and oil cooler mounts.



Oil coolers are a pain to fit, the fittings always stick out so much and there never seems to be a good place for them.

We have lowered it here so I can get a 3.5" intake pipe hover the top of it so I will run the pod filter somewhere in the front.

Have to go in front of the radiator as there is not enough space for the fittings inside the chassis rails.




A whole lot of sheet metal to fab up to duct it through the bonnet again.


When turning the cross member around the steering rack needs to be changed to suit.

Plan A was an Escort LHD rack as they are same length as Starlet (bump steer etc) but would have meant new arms.

Somehow I found the only LHD Starlet rack in NZ and it happened to be in the south island.

New mounts for it then everything bolted straight back up, that's a massive time/$$ saver.



Need access to the rear coil pack as you can't remove it with the scuttle panel there.

Cutting a panel is a tricky thing as it's easy to make it stand out like a sore thumb.

So I came up with the idea to hinge the rear of this section, and use the existing slots, and the fixing will be under the bonnet.

So once cleaned up should be pretty subtle.



One of the worries when doing the Watts link was that their would be no space for my current fuel cell.

Luckily however it fits in really nicely.


I was previously running the main fuel pump in the fuel cell, but I had to keep the tank at least 1/3rd full to stop surge, and I can't be arsed with that anymore.

So I needed a surge tank, however I hate having all the external pumps and pipe work that most people do, just seems nuts to me, more points of failure, noise etc.

So I went with a FITech HyperFuel G-Surge Tank from Jegs.



I will be running a return system so will be simple arrangement of just connecting the hoses via AN6 fittings.

I have a lift pump which will go in the fuel cell so again keeping everything internal.






  • Like 8

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.