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Hyperblade's KP61R - Toyota Starlet with Honda K20a


Hyperblade

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Clutch:

So the aftermath of a clutch spring letting go.

PXL-20221123-210301936.jpg

 

PXL-20221123-212001272.jpg

Bit's also made a small hole through the bellhousing.

That was a new Exedy HD S2000 clutch, there were warnings on the internet about using them, I thought it would be ok as light weight car, and previous Exedy with the BEAMS handled a ton of abuse.

Wow was I wrong, DO NOT use this clutch, after taking it out we could see wear on the posts and clutch springs where they were binding, it's just not designed correctly for the loads.

Decided to try an Action Clutch (Considered Xtreme Clutch, but had a friend who's plate exploded on his car and made a bigger mess...) this time, at least the springs shouldn't be able to come out...

PXL-20220901-014424444.jpg

 

Adapter Plate/Flywheel

So while we were swapping that we found the input shaft bush was showing a lot of wear and was no longer concentric. 

I run a standard adapter plate (with flywheel to suit), they say on their product page "Precision machined from 6061 this adapter features perfect dowel pinned alignment and all hardware needed."

Of course when I went to bolt it on one of the dowel pins wouldn't go in, I was in a rush for various reason and it become a one is in, that should be enough...

Turns out yeah no, you really do need 2, we think movement between gearbox and engine has caused it to wear, which damaged flywheel where the bushing sat.

The adapter plates also don't have a huge number of bolts holding everything together, especially at the bottom where their is the highest load.

Adapter Plate

PXL-20221123-210118056.jpg

Originally the gearbox bolted up to the adapter flange with 3 bolts (yeah I wasn't to impressed by that at the time, but a lot have been sold, so figured it would be ok), it's now been all modified to have 7, and more coming in from the engine side. We also managed to get one bolt at the bottom to go all the way through from the gearbox to the engine sump bracing (highest load). It won't be moving anywhere now...

We machined the flywheel to fix it up and put a proper bearing in it (2032 6 series - I think from b series), so that should also take some mis alignment better.

Engine mounting points, top of adapter plate sits above the top ones.
PXL-20221123-210019303-MP.jpg

 

Gearbox Shifter Linkage
For any one interested, here's a good photo of shortening a gear lever linkage on an Honda S2000 AP1 gearbox to move it forward which i took while it was out.


PXL-20221123-212023474.jpg

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

The last club day of the season (I was out in first round so not worried about points) was coming up and it was looking wet 

So I thought it would be a good opportunity to get the the car out for another shakedown of the new wiring, and get some experience in the wet (I've never driven in the wet).

So first time out on a wet track in qualifying, i put it on pole...

Race 1

Turns out it goes really good in the wet. Allowing me to take my first win by 30s over 2nd place (he sand bagged a bit after he accidently hit pit limiter and saw me race off into the distance).

 

I managed a 1:42.5 which is I'm absolutely stoked with, that's only 7s off my dry time, and there was a little more in it (and that's with no changes from current dry setup). 

Also it confirmed that things like the wipers, lights and demisting (not running any, instead I'm using the heat from exhaust + radiator) all worked as expected.

The wet's i ran are 4 year old ex Michelin TRS, and are absolutely amazing, it really was like driving in the dry, they are super soft and it shows as another competitor who is normally slightly faster in dry then me had older harder different brand wets and was 12s off my time.

But also the weight of the car and it's handling characteristics show it's driveable/chuckable nature.

Race 2

Race 2 was a handicap race and I was 60s behind first pack, unfortunately the guy who came 2nd place in 1st race was 15s in front of me, and he picked his pace up to match mine, i did manage to get within 9s of him on a damp track (rain had stopped).

 

 

I came out of the day actually feeling excited to potentially race in the wet in the future, where as before I was very nervous, so that's also a massive win.

 

ITBS

Interestingly enough Tegiwa have just come out with some Jenvey ITB's to fit an EP3, they are very heavily compromised to fit in the engine bay, but do have some dyno charts.

Check out the dyno results and see what you think about the results and claims...

https://www.tegiwaimports.com/blog/?p=6297

Quote

A run of 251.1bhp with 161.1 lbf.ft meant the kit had improved performance with an additional 13.8bhp! Of course, dyno figures aren’t the be all and end all of everything, it’s largely about the experience on the road. As we all know, there’s not much that comes close to the noise of a set of ITB’s screaming all the way to 9,000rpm which is a huge factor when it comes to deciding what option to go down when tuning your K20.

 

Before:

EP3-MAPPED.jpg

After:

EP3-ITB-POWERRUN.jpg

 

 

Let me know your thoughts in my discussion thread here:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 7 months later...

Small post to say a big thank you to @h4nd for coming round and getting an Oscilloscope trace of the Honda S2000 Speed Sensor (VSS) I've been having issues with (only taken me nearly 2 years to get round to it.) just waiting on Link to respond with their thoughts now, but have one potential solution we think should solve it.

 

Traces are below if anyone else needs similar in the future

image.thumb.jpeg.7bc2429800aa8b11bd1b0bc1145e0643.jpeg

 

 

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