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azzurro

azzurro's 125p Pickup dyskusja

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Those rubber driveshaft doughnuts - they look like these....Screenshot_2018-06-13-08-47-14(1).jpg.921f43f2b20edb0e317bc13fa26a7b6e.jpg

 

Now could you please be a kind young man and measure them up for me? Width across the steel inserts, diameter of bolts, pcd etc

Are they cheap/where are they cheap/where should I get some?

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they are called guibos/driveshaft rubbers/donut joints/flexible couplings and are pretty cheap, and i can send you the old one i just took out of the ute if the dimensions look promising for you to try?

Ill have a measure up tonight

Cheap from here - $US12.50 of your capitalist hard currency plus shipping comrade:

https://ladapower.com/catalog/search?keyword=flexible+coupling&limitstart=0&option=com_virtuemart&view=category&virtuemart_category_id=0&Itemid=250

 

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GUIBO

Pcd ~112-113mm for M12 bolts that go in the holes that are 56mm deep excl the tang bits.

ID of the hole in the donut is ~55mm and OD ~145mm

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sweet- cheers! I'll have a measure up soon. I think some Imp folk have been using modified BMW items too so I must look into those as well. Some how I dont think they'll be quite as cheap though....

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It may be that the bmw and fiat/lada items are same but idk for sure.

Also pcd is without compression. The metal band it to allow installation so flange pcd is a few mm less but measuring a circle that passes through a triangle is hard irl

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Bugger. Pcd is 12mm too big thereabouts. My search continues. There's a whole 6 page long thread didicated to failing couplings and alternatives. It's frequented by Imp barrys of the highest order. 

I shall go there. 

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Probably a busted rollpin in the 3rd-4th fork.

Good to see it's not making soup

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7 hours ago, Mof said:

Probably a busted rollpin in the 3rd-4th fork.

Good to see it's not making soup

Yeah, i figured something like that, i haven't looked inside it (and probably wont!), but it kinda felt and sounded like those gears were spinning on the shaft or something.

i had a cursory look before i installed it and it seemed clean/nothing obviously broken, which is the full extent of my gearbox checking/testing/fixing skillz, but i will look at the diagrams and see if i can get my head around it.

Im glad the engine seems ok too, im hoping the tapping is just valve clearances and not something more serious from hydrolocking or something, but the bottom ends of these engines are very stout and i checked  that #1  piston wasnt sitting lower than #4  at TDC

 for the most part i was just getting it running before adding coolant, and once it was and i added it, the starter laboured and would nae start (i thought flat battery initially) so hopefully no harm no foul apart from wasting a lot of oil, coolant, money and time...

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yeah i did.  18mm hole same as the bung thread

i jammed a 11mm deep socket with masking tape on it to centre the bung on the hole/help the magnets hold it up if that what you mean

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The bungs I use have a small lip to go in a pre drilled hole

You want the bung hole to be a tight fit usually

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Sorry to see you having such a battle with the carbs and very suprised you're having problems with that sensor as it was used very few times from new before that car was parted :doubt:

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On 31/12/2018 at 14:31, tortron said:

The bungs I use have a small lip to go in a pre drilled hole

You want the bung hole to be a tight fit usually

Tight fit in the bunghole, gotcha

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7 hours ago, dspec_tt131 said:

Sorry to see you having such a battle with the carbs and very suprised you're having problems with that sensor as it was used very few times from new before that car was parted :doubt:

Hey bowl, no complaints here.

I havnt fitted the Weber sideys yet cause the manifold needs some mods. I also want to use the gauge to tune the single carb i have first (some jets for it from aliexpress turned up yesterday).

The sensor issue, well that just happens. I was hoping it would work, but also expecting to have to replace the sensor, as they are very fragile and finicky. Postage or kicking around on the floor of my shed, or maybe my ute runs so shit it gummed it up immediately?

Actually It now drops out of heater mode, but the gauge just flicks between min 7.2 or max 22.4 AFR. Maybe had a bit of a loose connection initially, and now ive truly fucked it?

Im waiting on a serial cable and usb adaptor to arrive to be able to connect up the gauge to my laptop and see what it says/update the firmware/re calibrate it etc. 

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Super happy to hear that you have orange peel to deal with.. Not happy for you but happy that I'm not the only one who will be sanding sanding sanding. My imp paint job is like a moon surface.. 

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I wonder if the original carbs for those manifolds had different throttle shafts that didn’t have a nut on the end but instead a flange like the below with a linkage running over top of them to actuate them from the outer ends

10BA61D9-855F-4518-8400-58AAA2D5448C.thumb.jpeg.6baae4d2768d521380ef0c5eb428f971.jpeg

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i suspect your are 100% correct, but i dont have or have ever seen carbs with that style throttle shaft , and it would complicate both the linkage requirements (two separate pull points) and carb balancing significantly.

What is even more silly is that if both barrel pairs were angled the same as (or more, for better dizzy clearance) as the front pair, they would fit perfectly, and there almost no space restrictions towards the firewall that justifies the choices they made.

These were NZ designed and made specifically to fit sideys to the dealer developed 125T , with the advantage over the factory LHD models in that the carbs dont compete for space with the steering shaft and brake master/booster (all LHD RWD twin cams had twin downdrafts, or single carbs), so it seems weird to design it in such a way as to require special unicorn model carbs (both dellortos and webers were fitted), and to invite ignition timing/shorting issues 

eg if i was designing some to be made i would have designed them like this "\\\\"* instead of like this ")\||"

 

*which is ironically pretty reminiscent of the /F/I/A/T/ corporate logo at the time

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