azzurro Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 Ive been poking away at this since dragday. Seems the slight fuel smell that developed durning the day was actually the fuel pump body leaking. What the hell. Anyway gave me the kick up the bum i needed to install all this in here, in prep for the sideys. Speaking of which, another manifold popped up on trademe cheap so i grabbed it hoping it might be a bit different (specifically have a bigger space between two middle barrells) from the two i have. Nope exactly the same - if the rear two were on the same angle as the front they would be perfect - there is heaps of clearance in the rear of the engine bay, and these were specifically made in NZ for 125 to have sideys fitted by the dealer (to make 125T) . I dont get it, its weird. Pupper still likes it so thats good 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 I also stuck the Innovate MTX-L AFR gauge in as well, so i could tell how bad my tune is big hole and a bung. Looks easy enough but Im very ashamed of my welding, almost impossible to get the torch up top and blew holes and gaaaahhh. I hate welding exhausts. Bung filled plus lashings of exhaust cement. Cable routing looks a bit weird but tucks up nicely over the exhaust and into the gearbox tunnel And then through an enlarged reverse light switch hole All fires up ok, except the sensor wont get out of "Htr" mode, so probably need a new sensor (v4.9) which i was pretty much expecting anyway. ----- @Abarth popped over to drop my shims back and mentioned it sounded like one cylinder was lazy . "Nah mayte, shes got good factory leccy ignition from a Beta, thats just the dumb shit carb being dumb and shit. owl" Anyway, a few days later i pulled the plug leads to check the spark, and #3 definitely had good spark but didnt make any difference to the running. Pulled the plug and I must have caught it on something last time i had them out as it was gapped to over 1.6mm and had slowly carboned itself up really good. Regap and a wirebrush and its much improved. Dumb shit carb is still dumb tho - pretty sure the idle circuit is being bypassed or blocked, and the main is coming on too soon based on the slight dribbling from the venturis - ill swap the spare DMS on and start from as close to factory jetting as i can. Happy New Year and all that, May 2019 bring you many happy classic miles with Pohutukawa flowers all over the place and sunburn for you all 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 Took this in for a WoF today in prep for Kumeu, left it at the place in the carpark pretty early and it FAILED - to be fair the windscreen had a long crack from a stone chip that ran, but i was hoping they would let that annoyance happen on the way home after i got my sticker However given it actually happened a few months ago I had already bought a new screen rubber and some scuttle corner repair panels from ladapower to go with a spare screen i already had 'in stock'. . Got home and popped out the old screen expecting the worst but its its not too bad at all. Passenger side is lush - there are a few bubbles where the rubber had worn the paint thin, but i think they will buff out. The brown stuff is old hard cavity wax Usually the hole around the drain tube blows out but its mint Bit worse on the drivers but not bad really, the rust is just surface stuff. Amazeballs The worst bit is from the massive hole seemingly made with a big nail right though all 4 layers of steel in base of the toothpick A-pillar for a FM aerial that i wont be reinstalling. The top of the pillar is also affected by the hole for the upper mount and those bubbles on the roof panel overlap will need cutting out and welding So this weekend will be spent cleaning up the surround and prepping the roof and scuttle for a coat of paint or two in time to get the screen in and Woffed in time for next weekend. I knew it needed to be done and was planning on it, just didn't want to do it like right now, in the flippin driveway. Lucky it looks fine for most of the next week or so! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted January 21, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 21, 2019 Guess what? Replacing the windscreen and doing the other things took longer than the weekend + week i anticipated! Rust in the windscreen aperture itself was just surface rust, but there were some other bits i missed or had got worse since last time, and i thought i may as well get them while the screen is out. In another shocker, the Roof/A-Pillar overlap bubbles went a bit deeper than initially appearing Outer patch ready to weld (already welded the patch on the inner skin, obviously) Not quite invisible, but solid metal and invisible/factory after a a skim of filler and some carefully applied seam sealer. Small patch in the drivers side gutter i missed last time And dug the ugly bathroom sealant off the windscreen motor mount to reveal some holes that got much bigger by the time i managed to get tools in the scuttle to cut off the brazing someone had blobbed it on with before. Had to jam a welding glove up under the dash to catch the hedgehogs and molten balls from falling on the carpet! EEEK! Bit of a fiddle to line it up and mark where it needed to fit and then tack it in place but its all solid and water proof now too, and the wipers still work!. Had some trouble with the rattle cans i used truing to keep the bog dry between literal storms But it turned out ok, thinners soaked rag pretty much wiped it right off, and cant tell once i got the 2 part ACV on there Ended up doing the roof, windscreen surround, scuttle tops of the doors and fenders and the sills as well as wafting the left overs at the bonnet. My cheap 1.4mm tip top coat gun is over due for replacement (sprayed 3 cars now! - 1.7mm primer gun seems ok still) so its well tidied up from the patchy look it had before but shes no show truck! Once that dried/it stopped raining i filled the cab gutters and pillers, and up the scuttle from the inside with Dinotrol (+ some Penetrol for luck) , glued up the headliner and blacked out a few bits and pieces. The windscreen i chose from storage (turns out i had 2!) is a NZ made one AUTOFLOAT with the NZS mark on it, and no chips. Thats now sitting in the hole in a brand new LadaPower sourced 2102 rubber waiting for the local glass cowboys to rope it in for me and install the spreader trim (i flippin hate windscreens - i cracked the old one even more popping it out and i dont want to crack this one) 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted January 27, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 27, 2019 Useless local windscreen dudes never showed up, so me and the boy roped it in ourselves. the NZ made ARMOURFLOAT windscreen from the parts stash . Was actually pretty easy, especially with a new rubber and lot of dish soap. Except somehow the spreader trim is shorter now repairs - what repairs? Took it in again on Saturday, and Great Success! After that i dropped off the sidedraft manifold to @EURON8 for him to mod for me, and when i got home i played with the old DMS carb and some new aliexpress idle, air corrector and main jets to fill some holes in my collection. Seems to idle and transition much better now (slightly richer idle and main jet than before) but there is still a big flat spot at low rpm. Been half assedly progressing though the sandpaper grades cutting back my orange peel (sanding suuuuuuuxxxxx) and today i finally polished it. Grrr 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted February 3, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 3, 2019 My Innovate cables turned up, and I plugged my lappy in and after faffing with the usb/serial driver stuff my 1960s designed ute talks to a computer. Turns out the gauge and sensor is fine... just needed the main plug jiggled so it fully clicked together and then re calibrated, so yay, but also, good one dick (me). Anyway with it now working I could see what the carb was doing and make changes in an infomed manner instead of flailing. THATS SCIENCE! Turns out the poor idle and bog off idle was a lean condition which is the opposite of what i thought, based on the plugs and exhaust smell, but it runs way better now, so looking forward to using it a bit more. Jetting is now: Primary: Idle 60, main 132, air 150 Secondary: Idle 70, Main 160, air 150 Weber DMS twin choke downdraft on a smokey 1582cc TC. Here is the worlds most boring video, in portrait model of the gauge in action on a cold start just before. Still a bit wobbly on idle but the carb is pretty worn Will do untill i fit my sideys Here is a shot of my two wheelbarrows 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted April 2, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 2, 2019 Finally went and got ol mate @EURON8 to ally weld the holes in the already hacked up side draft manifold so i could space the carbs apart about 4mm from where they were but without fouling on the dizzy or loosing room to seal or flow. some careful 'linishing' later Without any trimming the inner barrells will be 49mm apart, manifold spacing is 40mm, min i can get away with on the carbs is 45mm, max on the manifold is 44mm. its pretty flippin tight and doesnt add up... shaft need trimming by 3 to 4mm and the nuts thinned down a bit as well - i ended up spinning about 3 out of the vice, so i need some more M7 nuts to fit back on the venturi retainers i stole my spares from! no need for retaining washers :/ You can also see how offset the carbs are to the manifold Redrilled and tapped - had to open a old NOS packet to get a 5/16 NSP tap out that had been floating around in my grandads too box for who knows how long before that Fitting the o ring holders show where the manifold needs a smidge of smoothing, about 15 seconds with the belt file. The outer edge of the o-ring diameter is just inside the edge of the manifold face. linkage mod, toyota corolla cable from the old single carb set up to twin weber linkage, all this is sandwiched between the carbs boom AS mentioned in a previous post, these carbs came from a very hot mini, and apart from the drilled and soldered main jets, they all looked very close to what various books and setting tables suggest would be ok for 1500-1700cc engines. 32mm chokes, F9 tubes, 45 idles, 185 airs and random sized but soldered and redrilled mains I had previously ordered 125,and 135 mains so popped in the 125 to start with. old manifold off. Removed the (pretty new) old leaky mechanical fuel pump for good, and installed a factory engine blanking plate. Dumb photo cause it shows the old pump. installed and with new linkage mount and brake vacuum routing, both way better than before. Fuel hose routing will eventually be jiggled to look better (i had orignially wanted to have fule coming in from the firewalll side, but the double ended banjo is a bit long to have the hose make the remaining curve without a kink or rubbing. May try bending it a bit, or maybe just buy a bent one. Clearance is ok, but I cant install the bell mouth into cylinder 3, nor will the air filters i have fit - i will look into making an airbox - i have a Strada 125TC airbox with 'ABARTH' and a scorpion stamped on it that i really really want to make work some how but whatever, lets worry about that after! plugged the fuel in, then spend an age jiggled the timing around and carefully power filing the manifold, then trying to find the best combo of a limited ability to clock the dizzy (it fits in only two more or less fixed positions, maybe 5 degrees rotation?) and dizzy drive tooth alignment , and then it fired up and idled. and revved. Sounds good, and AFRs are ball park YAY! DOORTS! 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted April 6, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 6, 2019 Rerouted the fuel line to how i planned it, with the fuel pressure gauge between the two carbs In a timely event, these turned up from @ul9601 and so after reading the relevant section i tuned my MAN-O-METER to 11 and made this very very boring and poorly shot video, which is pretty much the 2nd start after getting it to fire and idle and me tuning it by how tall the rod is on my MAN Engines really tappy! ill redo the shims soon. Next day i tuned it a bit more, 1. balancing the barrels on each carb to each other using the air bleed screws (bleed the highest reading to match the lowest) and idle (small adjsutments), then 2. then balancing the carbs to each other (bleed the highest to the lowest side), then 3. adjusting the idle mix (leanest smooth idle, turn 1/2 turn one way at a time until it slows, then back the other way until speed drops then keep halving the difference until you find the spot 1/4 turn above the lean speed drop point) and back around to step 1 again, etc Turned out the timing was pretty retarded too, but also found a better dizzy spot. Had a dig though the filters stash to see what would work. The big factory thing is the Strada Abarth manifold (fwd) and the blue line is wehre i would need to cut it Tuned out only the worlds greatest filter will fit. Even then the (K&N) bases needed a tweak to fit (My 125 Belina has socks over trumpets) RACE MODE (now i see it in the photo, I dont like the look of those trumpet retaining bolts just waiting to wiggle out and fall into the carb. NO SIR) However, small children and animals no longer in danger of ingestion. Check the clearance to the shock tower. Be a real faff to make the Strada filter thing fit unfortunately, would need a custom airbox and a cut and shut, but would also be better than the Ramflows Test drive soon 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted April 26, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 26, 2019 bit more carb tutuing, upped the main jet to 135, better on transition, but maybe too rich on WoT. diddled with the the idle mix, ok, but still a bit funny. Read and reread my various carb books. decided to tweaked the floats, as the carbs are on a 12* angle to horizontal, (max recommended is 5*), the lower or inside side float will tend to cut off the needle valve earlier than it should making the fuel level low, especially in the upper or outside fuel well: ...and as it is written, so it comes to pass... Bent the inside float up a bit, and left the outer as it was (factory 25mm). Average fuel level is probably still a bit low, but too high will be bad too. WAAAAAAAY better now, i think the idle jets were sucking a bit of air every know and again or something, and the progression flat spot is much improved as the ETs have a few more holes covered. Tweaked the timing a bit more advanced as well (12-15* at idle) and the whole thing is now much livelyer. Idle is smoother and i leaned it back to a 'steady' 13.5 AFR, at 800rpm, when before it wouldnt idle under 1000rpm or 12.5 AFR At WoT AFR is dipping into the low 10s sometimes even the 9s, so i will try the 125 mains again. Time for a few other things (there is always something!) REDUCING NOISE Steering tie rod vs exhaust downpipe interference caused a disconcerting rattle though the steering wheel on hard right (parking style) turns These pipes are 80's muffler shop specials and will be replaced eventually, meantime a wee tickle from Mr Grinder on the excess threads appears to have the desired effect INCREASING NOISE 'customised' some op shop $5 low impedance (6ohm) speakers using a skill saw, ply offcuts and builders adhesive that i really think have nailed the 'builders least favourite apprentice' aesthetic. They fit under the back of the seats where no one can see them, and are 11ty times better than the old 4inch pioneer box speakers, and were within my budget, I am not ashamed. Related, I also installed a switch so the head unit will run without the key in the ON position (dash lights on, fuel pump chunting away). This hack is needed because my 'cheapest on ebay' Ducato ignition switch doesn't have a flippin ACC position. Now that's austerity. Chucked on a new sticker holder sticker And piled the girls in for a hoon. For the first time it feels like its actually running well, which means i will be using it quite a bit more. 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted November 1, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 1, 2019 When i dropped of the sedan, i dug this out of its hidey hole next to the wagon Change the jetting on the webers a bit, put in 50 idles (up from 45) which has mostly cured the off idle flat spot (have 55s to try, and cold starts) and 125 mains which did not fix the rich on WOT issues as much as i thought (down from 145, i also ordered 135s but i guess that was a waste. I may order a small set of mains (like 100 size) and some jet drills. damn carbs. Anyway, running well enough to be put to work Final dump/scrap run loaded up and ready to ship out Looks so smol on the road next to modern traffic Scrap dudes came over for a barry when were on the weigh bridge **////** and next to the 1969 original 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 Like the other 3 this has been in Auckland for about 10 months because of Covid etc. Ready for the transporter. It was the only one that the movers could start easily and is the most mechanically sound. Because its the crappiest, it lives outside (the other two get the garage) but it also means its the first in line, so ive also been pesting around on a Covid WoF, and because its not Auckland, there are no cops around anyway. Blackhead is about the same distance from my new place as Muriwai was from my old place, but no sea view (we are on the other side of the hill facing north :)) so plenty of surf checks/dog walks/AFR runs 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted October 18, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 18, 2020 Had our first snow day the other week. Next day was 20 degrees and tshirts! 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted October 18, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 18, 2020 Also been faffing around with this, changed the idle jets to 55s (too rich but no flatspot) then 50s (good, but a small flatspot off idle) and redid the shims and the timing (removed flatspot) and changed the oil (gross), which is unsurprising as the filter said it was last done in November 2018, and its had carb issues for ages (not now!) and put a new fuel filter in Picked up this stuff from trademe from a guy down the road, who just sold a 125 and a shed load of parts - this is the stuff hes found since. Factory winged sump is a score and the starter, brake booster are nearly new/unused. He was stoked with the ute. And found these on Marketplace for $10, NZ made lushness! Came with some good advice! "TAKE TIME TO BE FRIENDLY, IT IS THE ROAD TO HAPPINESS" 9 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted April 3, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 3, 2021 Been using this for dump runs and such but its well overdue for a wof. Unfortunately theres bubbling the sills where it was repaired before i got it, and a patch in the doors and some other nonsense to sort out first. So this morning i put it on stands and dug out the grinding and welding stuff Yes, 'Repaired'. FFS. Chop chop. BTW, new floor paint is holding up well and much easier cleanup than bare concrete Its a car based body, so has the car sill, with the side panel also covering that, so double skinned and open to water and dirt and crap from the tray above. Classic! Inner sill and everything else came up well. Caught it in time. Will remake it so it not quite as such as much of a trap with extra drains. Got this far tonight, will finish off the inner sill tomorrow. Hopefully borrow a folder for the outside so i dont use as much bog as i just took off. 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted April 5, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 5, 2021 Got the extention/cut and shut bit done today. Very happy with how it turned out. This 200mm filler panel is also replicated the between the front and rear floorpans/tunnel and makes the Kombi (wagon), Pickup and Ambulance (commercial special) wheelbase that much longer than the sedan. 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted April 6, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 6, 2021 Picked up this folder from @nzstato suburban building site/landrover barry trap. A few test folds on some scrap and then onto a long section. Came out very nice and 100x faster than the vice and hammer Ive used till now! Long weld in a big flat panel with no rear access for a dolly so taking my time. And little filler piece, folder just not quite long enough and it kicks up at the rear wheel arch too, so it worked out ok. Too late for noisy grinding but all tacked in now. Will grind that smooth and then much the same again on the drivers side. Ill do the filler work all together once the welding is done. 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted April 11, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 11, 2021 All ground back. Few wonky bits to fill, but its all going over solid metal. Getting there. Bog sand bog sand... Good enough! Some aliexpress treasure turned up Which i chucked on and drove it around the block to blow the dust off and turn it around. swept out the garage ready for the drivers side... I also need to pop the windscreen out and redo this corner, got some sort of paint reaction, rather than rust i think its rustkill primer on the bottom making all the layers seperate 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted August 23, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 23, 2021 Sick of looking at this up on jack stands. I need to finish the rust so it can go back outside where trucks belong, and so the sedan can have the garage again. So, picked at the rust bubbles bursting through the previous repairs on the drivers side sill. On the Sedan what is the inner sill on this, is actually the outer sill. The panel behind the door is used on Ambulance (long wagon) and Limo and matched by a panel between the front and rear floor pans. The Ambulance and Limo have a rear sedan door and the sill continues under it. On the Pickup, the bedside panel also wraps over the Sill. The back paint you can see on the top of the inner sill is actually black bedliner stuff i sprayed on the lower floor, which is under the tray bed. Pretty easy to see how water and stuff from the tray falls down between the sill and outer and rots out. Ill fill this with wax. Old grossness. Only 2 small patches, but they were both tack welded over rust then a bog artiste blended it in. Given the quality* of metal work under such bog mastery on the passenger side on the top of a double skinned water trap, unsurprised to have to take it quite a way back to find clean metal . One big patch is easier than lots of small ones IMO Inner sill reconstructed plus the fillet plate at the corner of the door opening First outer panel. Thought i would try joggling the top to add a bit of strength, as well as way easier to weld to and maybe reduce warping. Pretty happy to be looking after @nzstato folder, makes this stuff super easy! And second patch during one of the last of 456,908 fit ups Done Couple of shitty little patches in the corners of the door done too. Little fuckers warped pretty bad, but kind matches the existing dent above it, so meh. Quick rattle can primer to finish up and get an idea for how much bog ill need to fill out all the wobbles. Not as much as there was on there before maybe? Given its a skim going over solid metal instead of hiding making rust, im pretty happy with that! 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted August 29, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 29, 2021 Some small lockdown progress. Mainly slow because i just really hate sanding and bogging, its so dusty and takes way too long. Anyway, the sill repair got smoothed in and some rattle can primer for now. Pretty good colour match, hah! That done, dropped it off the stands and popped the windscreen out to get the passenger scuttle. This is result of some paint reaction just bubbled and flaked off. Looked back in the thread when i last had the screen out and i had a bad paint crazing reaction in that area when i was first gun priming it in the driveway, probably from a mix of rattle cans i would have used to seal it overnight etc, but i must not have cleaned these areas out. Flakey paint goes up the gutter a bit too. First grind back, back to bare metal Picked at some other scabs around the opening, and got the first layer of filler - one and done on most of the other bits, but a couple yet to go in this corner I reckon. Its a tricky tightening concave that always takes me ages to blend in. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted September 6, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 6, 2021 I have quite a few fucks to give, but I would just rather do almost anything else but prepping for paint. I think its the visible progress to time ratio - i have a series of steps in my head for a given task and i think i tend to see them equally (they all get one line on the list?) and because this one step just takes flippin aaaages it grinds my gears. So anyway, got to the point where the diminishing returns of sanding yet another coat of filler met my level of fucks. Masked up. Basically only repainting the sill area, as the paint above the body line is mostly original but a bit patchy, and still has the pink stripes so i was hoping to sort of fade it in and cover up some of the worst bits from the bottom up. The front and rear lower bits have been painted before. I was worried the rattle can primer i used might react with the gun paint. Not enough to sand it off tho, hah. Primered And de masked (i may hate sanding, but goddam i love peeling of masking!) Nioce The paint is a few years old and while i stirred it pretty good i think it was a bit thick and should have put extra thinners in it as it wasnt spraying very well at all. I went over it with some thinners at the end which smoothed it out a lot in most places except here. I also put a texture line to match the factory 'tide mark' on the sills using primer with a very low pressure just sort of spitting bumps on it. Windscreen ready to go back in And done, just need to install the filler strip and this beastie can go back outside and go back to 'work' (ie going to the dump once a month or so) . Fired up first pop too. 27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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