Popular Post azzurro Posted October 9, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted October 9, 2017 While on a family jaunt to Papamoa last week, Mr Chris Grant was taking photos of trash on the side of the road, and messaged me some pics: a 1989 Fabryka Samochodów Osobowych (FSO) 125p Pickup, which is a Polish licenced version of a FIAT 125 (Russian Ladas are FIAT 124 based) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polski_Fiat_125p These have 125-eque bodies and the preceeding 1300/1500 model running gear Anyway, i got him to investigate further and he sent me this: Its got a twin cam it instead of the factory 1500 pushrod (same engine as my 2300 with 2 less cylinders) Anyway, seems legit and i ring the guy to organise a viewing the following weekend (on my way to wellington) and if (LOL) i buy it, to collect it on the way home a week later. So thats what happened... discussion \/ 19 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted October 9, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 9, 2017 So checked it out, agreed on a price ($1000 less without the hotwires, lewl) and left a deposit a week ago, and yesterday after driving from Palmy to Papsmear i pick up this on probably the rainiest day ever. Here is the traditional first fill up shot. Looking good in Light grey with 80's tastic pink fade graphics and contrasting turquoise rubbing strip, plus red pinstripe Now this is a good time to point out that the vehicle is of questionable road worthiness and legality, and while it runs, it has some quirks. The Mrs was supposed to follow me in the van and we would roill slowly back to Auckland with any mishaps easly resolvable with a support vehicle. THis was the plan but i got lost almost immediately (wrong lane + road works) and she went the Matamata way. in addition to water and oil i also purchased some wiper blades, which turned out was a good call. After only one issue when i couldnt get it to start after stopping and it conked out, (and then it just went) I thankfully made it back to Auckland with pretty much no issues Goes pretty good apart from a hole in the secondary pipes and a maaaassssssiii-i-i-i-i-i-ii-ve flat spot when accelerating, which is a carb fault of some sort, as the engine runs well otherwise. 19 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 And today i had the day off as well (back to werk tomorrow) , so dug right in to see what i had done. So, first things first, RIMZZZ the factory rims with the pastic centres actually looked ok, but they tyres were shit. So 14"x5.5 DELTA AUSTRALIA Meshies, with 185/60 Direzzas Or these 13"x5" Indianapolis with some unused but old and off brand 185/60 Mrs and boy reckon the meshies, i like the 13s but needs to be lower first. I also have some 13" wards, and some 14" steel iron cross and some factory 125 steelies too. Sad. So digging, they guy has a 125S and a 128 Coupe so this truck has been pretty well setup. 125 Sedan Diff (4.1 ratio) in the back (complete with leaking axle seal, but new rear pads). These were factory disc as well, he said the FSO one started making a noise so he swapped it over, and i think the pickup diff is lower geared (like 4.3 ratio) so the swap improved highway comfort too. Still has the factory polonez 5 speed box (halfway between lada and fiat twin cam to suit the 1500 (and 2300!) engines) with the starter is on opposite side to fiat twin cam), The stick is removable! but box it is quiet and smooth. Rear lowered by flipping the ubolts these ride pretty high in the ass usually, and the suspension pretty stiff. Front is apparently stock but has lots of nolathane bushes. 7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 took the front end off to tidy it up and remove the lights. One of my favourite jobs is cleaning the muck out from light lenses, seems to make such a big difference to the appearance for the sake of a bucket of soapy water. WHile i had that off it would be rude not to see if the 20 year older italian Fiat 125 chrome grill will fit in the usual spot. It will but it about 20mm wider than the plastic one and covers the edge of the inner light, so yeah, but nah. Car has been sitting around for a while not being driven. Tracing why this side repeater (this one is odd and from a Toyota of some sort) is non operational Deja vu is when they change something in the Matrix But is otherwise pretty straight 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted October 9, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 9, 2017 And the rear: Tail gate is rusted on one corner, there is some patches in both the rear quarters, the area in front of the rear wheels have been repaired before on both sides, but otherwise it seems pretty good. all the pinholes will add up tho... Its got a tow bar. rear valance is a bit holey, and its the same on t'other side, and the rear quarter. THe inner tray tin is all removable to reveal, pretty much no rust in a 125 sedan floorpan. THe 125 boot well is covered over, as it the seat (and threaded seat belt holes), Even the 125 sedan vertital mount rear shock tubes are still there, open to the road below, even tho the Pickup has a 2300 style cross member and angled shock arrangement. Factory setup the spare is attached to the side of the tray infront of the rear wheel. The PO had cut the tin and fitted those big gate hinges to put the spare (with 135 width tyre!) under the tray and had the hump in the tonneau removed I will make try to the whole under tray where the 125 seat and passengers feet are into storage compartments. This all water blasted up nice and clean and a lot of mud came out of the wells 13 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted October 9, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 9, 2017 INterior is pretty cool, the dash pod is almost exactly like the 2300 but black plastic. Cheap stereo im sure hides some wiring disasters, but allows FM to exit the 4" speakers so it can stay for now. PO was second owner and bought the vehicle with 30,000km, when it was 9 years old. it currently has 90,000kms. Door cards are pretty shot, guy gave me some cool spares, but they are 2x passenger side 125S (gold trim! Lights!) so the drivers side is going to have a couple of extra small holes instead of two massive ones Engine is a 1585cc 132B.000 Block with a 4301155 Head (factory from a 131 Mirafiori 1600) This is bolted to the FSO 5 Speed box using all factory mounts. The Carb is a twin throat Weber 32 DCHE 21 (from a later 125), presumably using the old carb on the newer block so the FSO linkages could be used. The set up it a bit janky tho, so thats on the list. Radiator is a 125 one (FSO one has an offset filler neck and tucks under the closing panel more) with a small pusher fan on the front. Water is gank, but id not use any or overheat so will just clean it out when i do the cambelt and waterpump. Might be a good excuse to get the aluminium RX3 radiator i have cut and shut. Finally whipped the carb off to clean up and investigate the poor starting and flat spots. Im no rocket surgeon but it brobably had a bit of an air leak which is why it run way better with a bit of choke. The accelerator pump 'jet' or valve int eh base of the float chamber was also unseated completely, which would have no doubt contributed to the flat spot. Its so buckled one of the throats is actually flatsided a wee bit, so Ive given it a rough sand on a flat block to flatten it a bit, and cleaned it all out, and will install it with plenty of Hylomar Blue so we will see. I have a spare 34DMS to try as well which ran fine on my old 1608cc. So yeah, pretty stoked so far, shouldn't take too much to get back on the road and utilized 24 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted October 11, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 11, 2017 So a bit more digging today, i pulled out the interior, seats and carpets are fine to reuse, floors and sills and pillars are excellent. but there was a suspicious amount of no more gaps with a coat of bitumen spray over it on the rear cab/floor join, inside and the tray side. After lots of thinners soaked rags to get rid of the black tarry shit, and about an hour of wire brushing, and emptying the vacuum twice. That no more gaps sure is is sticky stuff! This is the passenger side from inside the cab and is the worst, drivers only has a couple of spots This is the drivers side from the tray side, and is the worst, but passenger side has a couple of hole too. Might be easiest to cut and shut ~100mm wide sections from a sedan floor as they never rust there. My red 125 body is in now in Hamilton and ive been meaning to grab some bits back off it so i guess thats moved up the list. This are will probalby be the last to do as a result. The cab wall itself is fine. More rust chasing I think i found the 'custombuilt' part of this truck. The vertical shock mounts have actually been removed and the angled setup installed. I didnt have a very good look underneath but it looks factory, so i wonder if its got 1500 bits under there. There are a few holes to fill in both inner arches due to the torn spot welds rusting. There are also matching holes in front of each arch where ive never seen a sedan rust. As well as adding rusty holes to the list, I crossed some off. The tail gate was rusted though in one corner, but now it isnt! I was in the zone and forget to take pics till i put the first coat of primer on, but you get the idea. Will need a skim of putty (especially to fill my wonky edge line!) but im pretty happy with that for the first patch. 26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted October 15, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 15, 2017 more rust. I always think it wont take very long but it does. I tend to work in sections and batch things to the tools needed - saves trying to find that tool while your lying around on the ground, as its always in your hand. . Eg mark sections, drill all the spot welds, cut all the holes with the slit disc, tidy with the other grinder ends and powerfile etc. Then make all the CAD templates, cut all the steel, then fine work to get teh patch to suit the hole, weld, grind, weld pinholes, grind, sand, primer. Also means i can do a bunch of quieter stuff after work etc and do all the welding and especially grinding in a single annoying spurt on the weekend instead of a little all the time Section A Wheel Arches. Figured id get this done so i can loosely fit the tins and start pile crap back in there. Pretty much 3 matching areas both sides, plus a couple of random blebs out of shot Section B: Rear Valance etc Took the tow bar off to get into this area, this section is 'closed' (lol) from road debris form the wheels and tray areas and does not have very big drain holes (there are some humps in the inner section that his plugs to that face forwards...) so trapped wet grime sitting on the flat sections has made its own way out. First batch of patches. I should have replaced the whole bottom section right across TBH, i added a couple drain holes in the big patch which should help let dirt and stuff out (and cavity wax in). I will also seam seal before i underspreay as there isnt much on this car, and some of the gaps are pretty bad! Moving around to the passenger side, thought id get away with filling a few pinholes, but ive since done what i should have done the first time, and cut the corner off like onm the drivers side, as well as extended the big patch in the middle both ways. You can also see the strengthener on the flank where trapped muck and holed the side, below the bumper, from the inside out, and it was just the same on the other side. Got all the remaining patches for this area ready to weld in during the week some time. Remaining rust (i know about!) to be cut out, which isnt that much if you say it fast is: - 1 tricky to fold section if the rear lower corner of rear passenger wheel arch (just in front of the mudflap) - 2 & 3 holes/bands in rust trap factory positioning things that look like jacking points but are not... of outer floor section behind front wheels, both sides - 4 rear cab/floor area (will probably use rust cuts here) pass and drivers - 5 lower rear tray to tailgate seal lip, but can leave it till after summer/WoF , and will get a section bent up so i can spot it in easy, like the 2300 section in the same place 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 item 1 on the list above, section behind the rear wheel. From bottom to top, rusty section, CAD, and the patches 90% ready to weld in Then welded up the pie cuts and slits, checking against the car as it can warp, then welded most of it in from the inside where i could. Then my welder started playing up, all pops and burn backs and no penetration Turn out it was the new 5kg wire roll was quite a bit heavier than a nearly empty one, and got the wire speed set properly, after some long overdue maintenance. Ground most of that off and ran over it again with the revived sizzle stick, ground most of that off too, and here we are SO thats the rear half de-rusted, started on the first round of bog, and washed the dust down with a beer i got just so i could use my new opener 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 Bog, is boring so skipped ahead abit, the spare door cards were in the way, so sapped them over. This is what i had, which were ok apart from the massive holes and wobbles. And this is what ive got, 2x passenger side 125S (for Special!) door cards, complete with GOLD AND PURPLE trim. Passenger side swapped right in Drivers was a bit more of a mission. I ended up ripping the vinyl off to reverse the door card to reuse the factory holes for the door pop-clips and stuff, but better than before, and thats a job that is now finished! While i was in there I have also - cut down some foam for the underlay - removed the shitty stereo (will probably put a head unit back in with speakers in the kick panels, and gauges under) - removed the heater box - so i could access the hood opening mech (now sorted) 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted October 22, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 22, 2017 Ive also been doing mechanical stuff too, new engine mounts (and transmission mount too), they were all soft and bung, so should tighten everything up alot. got carried away, some rustoleum spray paint i got to try is not a match to the body so trying to use it up... New Starting reassembly, (after a waterblast and lots of degreaser!) incl new shaft seals to hopefully keep the oil inside. New waterpump , tensioner fitted and cambelt to go on too I dont have a crank nose seal so thats ordered for next week, so stuck here for now Also - Drained the radiator and removed it , cleaned out out the overflow (gross) , - drained the engine oil (gross) and filter, - checked the gearbox oil (way overfull, but clean), - drained the diff oil (gross) and removed the passenger side axle to replace the leaky seal but the 125 seals (30*48.6*6) wont fit, but 124 ones do (30*45*6) do, so i have them coming next week to finish that off too. The diff may therefore be a 124 type with 125 mounts selded on, if so then a Russian LSD could be a goer at some point. Tomorrow im heading up to storage to get rid of some stuff and bring some back down, will grab my 34DMS carb as the one on there is still leaking gas pretty bad even tho it works quite well otherwise, and will remove the mechanical pump that the electric one pumps into, that also leaks. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 I removed the crappy stereo and looked at the wiring, sighed and pushed it back out of sight and started putting the front half of the interior back in over some 6mm foam which makes it a bit nicer to sit in while faffing about The old stereo was just sitting in a big hole in the dash as the factory (single centre) speaker cover is all broken too and my spare headunit (CD) was too long, so ive ordered a cheap 'retro' mechless bluetooth jobbie off aliexpress, as well as some gauges, (RPM and Voltage), and some other shit. To prep for this, i made up a dash panel for the stereo to mount in and ive had this cool gauge pod thing for ages and i think it suits the brittle black plastic aesthetic that the interior has going on (the screws are fake, lol) I only had to trim this massive gash a wee bit (on the bottom half) to get it in Bit of black formica over the top and jobs a goodun pending the headunits arrival. Will probably run oil pressure, a 52mm tach and voltage as the dash water temp gauge works fine. Sorry about the carpy photos it was dark. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted October 29, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 29, 2017 My order from fiatparts.co.nz turned up on Thursday, with my crank seal so got the cam belt on and engine all buttoned up Changed the spark plugs. Hopefully now that the carb has fewer fuel leaks and no air leaks and doenst really need the choke they will be grey next time i do a plug chop I had some NOS Beck-Arnley leads, purple to match the sides and interior stripe, lol. Also chopped the cam cover so it can come off without draining the radiator Swapped in the Pertronix fitted dizzy i had on my 125 before i went to Digiplex, and a new coil, and tidied some wiring. New oil and filter, fitted radiator, filled with water and a bit of simple green for now to clean it out a bit more. Replaced the mechanical fuel pump, turns out the non-OEM bolts didnt have quite enough thread to tighten up properly, so hopefully sorted a big oil leak too. And picked up my box of carbs, L-R DCHE, same as whats on there, but very crusty, will try swapping the few bits that still leak on the fitted one DCD, i had cleaned and reassembled this in 2014 and it is 'OK', according to the vivid on it, DMS, clean body with no bits, i sold my complete, but a bit worn one to NickJ, but i think i still have jets and stuff to make it work, but the linkage is a 'pull' instead of 'push' like the other two, but i have linkages from when i ran one on my 125. This is the best carb by far, but needs the most work to fit. In my order from Mal, i also got some diff seals, it is a 125 diff, he just sent me the wrong ones (131 gbox seals), so the axle is refitted, diff refilled with oil. Finally removed the rear bumper (one bolt required 4 jointed arms or removal of the gas tank to reach) and did a couple more patches hiding behind it, and bogged them up, putty all the wee bits etc then primered it to grey (last before real paint), stoked to get that finally done. I then took it for a burn up the road to turn it around so i can fix the rust in the front, and see how all my work went on the engine etc (great!). Next jobs: - cavity wax rear of tray and reassemble tins, tail gate and tonneau etc - replace the holey front half of the exhaust (have an ok spare) and fit a joiner (its currently 1 piece...) - fix rust behind front wheels - fix rust in passenger a-pillar - fix rust in cab floor/base, either collecting my old red 125 shell back from Hamilton for cuts, or make my own. - wof - drag day... - 1000 other little things 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 this week i finished off a few jobs on the list, started on the a-pillar, as i thought it would only need a little patch. which is nice because this area is a common rust spot with the pointy fender angles trapping much up there and then rusting into the scuttle then i found it has been leaded before. and there was a big hole on the underside letting water up into the scuttle, so off with this whole corner (this is about the 5th time ive done almost this exact cut). as per usual the triangle bit had a hole in it letting water from the front wheel up into the a-pillar. Nice REmade that bit and repaired the scuttle and fender corners buzzed back on and a coat of primer. Just needs a skim of bog, but that can wait 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted November 5, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 5, 2017 I then moved onto the base of the a-pillar, which is another common rust spot, mainly due to being commonly used as a jacking point when it isn't (the thing with a hole in it is an assembly jig point). You can see the lip all bent up and the bit behind it all holey. chopped it out, the bit behind (the passender floor panel) and all the other areas are in good nick. buzzbuzz grind and primer. Then the other Drivers side, which has been jacked on but was nowhere near as bad, a-pillar is good too I will cover most of this in seam sealer to build up the texture of the factory undercoat before putting a fresh coat of undercoat over the hole lot. Only rust remaining is in the rear of the cab, but im not sure ill get to Hamilton to get my 125 shell and back (1 weekend) , cut out the floors in both, (1 weekend) weld them in etc etc (1 weekend) before drag day which is 4 weeks away, so pondering a quick bodge to squeak it though a wof (maybe!) till the new year when ill have more time to do a good job Ive got a lada power order of various bushes and stuff, and an ali-express order that should arrive next week to finish off the interior before then too. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted November 6, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 6, 2017 Used up a whole 1L canister of Dinotrol underbody on the front half when i got home tonight, should keep it nice for a while, as well as hiding my secret excavations. Ill cavity wax in the corners and access holes tomorrow and then its off the stands. My Aliexpress oder turned up too, so I finished off wiring up the centre console on the bench. Sound Pressure, Oil Pressure, Engine Pressure and Electrical Pressure Gauges ready to go. This combination of Chinas finest automotive accessories (head unit, 3x 2" gauges cluster, and a 2" Tach) cost me US$62 including shipping, and im quite pleased with my purchase so far, and i very much like the factory ''2FM + 5 AM Station Memory' looks, even the wonky chrome kinda suits. Mechless Head unit has bluetooth, Aux and USB inputs and a tuner, and has 4 channel RCA outputs if the 4x60W (lololol) onboard amp turns out to be total pants, but i dont imagine the bottom tier 90s Pioneer box speakers ill jam under the seats will reveal much of a soundstage. TBH ill just be happy of the Aux-in works and the USB port charges my phone. 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted November 13, 2017 Author Share Posted November 13, 2017 Heaps of little things, - got the stereo/gauges installed and working (except the oil pressure - need a 1/4 NPT to 12x1.5 thread adapter to put the china sender in the standard Fiat sender hole, or a Fiat guage i guess) - swapped out the old secondaries for some from the stash, factory 125, old holey rubbing and bent ones on left, new hotness on right made a few free horse powers before installing them with the power file! Lot quieter now so i can now hear the valve shims tapping... My Ladapower box turned up, - so far ive fixed the steering column bushes (nice and tight now) - replaced all the dash panel lamps - installed the new gear lever and bushes, and rubber boots so it doest fall out nor can you see the road though the hole - replaced a couple of other random firewall boots - replaced flasher unit - diagnosed the no start issue to the ignition switch (same as 80s/90s Ducato/Renault/Citroen van, so only 28Euro with freee shipping instead of 90Euro + for a Fiat 127/128/132 listed item!) - installed a battery holddown and tidies up some engine bay wiring - found the factory hub caps sit flush on the meshies, yeah or nah? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted November 13, 2017 Author Share Posted November 13, 2017 And some rust and stuff around the drivers door The mirror mounting points were, ahhh, not rusty but may as well have been. No access from the inside, so i chopped it out. Found some RivNuts at Supercheap (no gun but!!!) so tacked some in my patch before install so it matches the passenger side (which needs a couple of the extra holes welded up too, but already has the rivnuts) Knocked back the welds and done 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted November 13, 2017 Author Share Posted November 13, 2017 Then i founds some holes in the gutter 'hiding' under some clear silicone: Chopchop I purposely kept my cut below the swage line as it made the patch easier to make and blend in and reduces the chance of warping a lot, even if it was a bit tighter with the torch tip. Got some rust kill and primer in there while i could, always a bit of a tradeoff as the stuff you jam in can contaminate the weld and make it more prone to rust out again vs slowing down or stopping the cancer thats already there that will definitely rust out again! CAD then steel, A flattened bit of old copper pipe makes a good bridge/heatsink and saves grinding the back side of the weld flat, as the weld wont stick to it Bam! and the rust is gone Few more blebs and holes sorted too while i was there I pretty much only have the back of the cab floor to do now, and ive had a bit more of a poke at it and i think ill just patch the worst of it to get er done as its not that bad really , and keep the floor sections when i eventually collect and chop up my red parts car for that 'one day when i do it properly'. Future me can suck it. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted November 13, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 13, 2017 Oh, @EURON8 also gave his credit card details and home address to some russian hackers and in return they emptied a warehouse of lada goodies from the motherland to store more bitcoins. I jumped on his freight bandwagon and gots me one of these sweet lip spoilers 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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