bonkas

bonkas tired old Lancer EX - Engine Swap/Build Thread

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Few things to add to this..

Some parts I have acquired.. Water Pump, Oil Pump (Whole front cover), balance shaft elimination kit (this does not have the oil gallery on the stubby shaf, if anyone knows if I can run as is or if it is 100% required on the SOHC motor im all ears), Cometic 1mm Oversize Head Gasket, Dellorto DHLA 45's, Throttle linkage kit for said carbs.

Work done so far:

Port and Polish done by Motor Preperations in Otorohanga
Larger Intake and Exhaust valves (Unsure on Exhaust size right now but going to 44mm Intake) - Kelford Cams @ToMitz
Cam being specced out based on other work being done and if new billet is required - Kelford Cams @ToMitz

Custom 1mm oversize forged pistons, Motor Prep have calculated a 10.5:1 compression ratio with a 10cc dome on the pistons and roughly 2.1L with 1mm overbore on the pistons. From my research I should nut run into any clearance issues as the valves are a long way away from the block so I can delete the valve releifs from the pistons which by my eyes dont line up with the valves anyway on the SOHC motors.

Have sources a solid/adjustable valve train to unlock all of the RPM's. Will be running stock Gearbox and Diff so we will see how long these last (I have spares from the engine donor car in unknown condition)

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Have had a wee setback, have received the pistons but they do not have the 10cc dome I had asked for, only 7cc which means the compression ratio I was shooting for will not be correct so further decking of the block and modifying of the pistons is required (deck block, machine pistons to suit and smooth out the dome and valve pockets for better flow and to prevent hot spots. All of this would have been avoided if the pistons were correct.

This was mis-communication between myself, the agent and the manufacturer and I am unsure where I stand in regards to hitting up the piston agent. I had asked for a 10cc dome which they had done BEFORE cutting the valve pockets so this has left me with 7cc overall.

Bit of a discussion of this over here:

New valves have arrived and seats are being cut this week and cam is being sorted as we speak so hopefully the head will be back with me this week or next and I can start work on manifolds, pistons and block work (balancing, decking etc).

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FInally some decent progress!

I now have cam sorted, solid lifter gear, beehive valve springs, larger valves, new retainers, spring seats, intake ports taken out to ~40mm and changed the port for better flow etc - All of this would not be possible if it wasn't for @ToMitz so a huge thank you goes out to him!

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Bit more progress before the new year, block has been bored to 86mm, all rotating assembly's balanced (Pistons, rods, crank, clutch, flywheel etc) flywheel has been lightened. Crank has been polished, 40% heavier pressure plate and new clutch. Headers cleaned up ready for paint or wrap - not sure what im going to do yet. and finally the sharp edges of the pistons have been polished out, just for a reduced chance of detonation.

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Few little things to tidy up which have been overlooked:

  • Install EGR blocking plugs and blend into combustion chamber. Will take head back in once this has been done to get the head CC'd against our beginning numbers.
  • New CR has been calculated to around 10.87:1 (I was hoping for 10.5) may need to do more work to combustion chamber to account for this. Good thing I didn't get the full 10cc of dome on the pistons or the compression ratio would be way way off!
  • Dummy fit crank, rods and pistons to check head clearance.
  • Dowels in block which help align the head dont seem to have been put back, will have to source/machine more.
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Little progress but progress none the less.

Picked up bit required to start putting this engine back together. Picking up the main studs tuesday which should let me start the build!

Parts ready to be cleaned and vapour blasted where necessary:
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Another snag it seems... Main Studs are not correct, cant find anything that suits.

Original bolts are 69mm in length with 17mm head.

My HELP! thread is here:

 

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Got the studs sorted, found ones that work.

I now have dummy fitted the crank and pistons.

I was told by engine builder the crank was within spec but plastiguage says I am riiiiight on the edge of acceptable for the main bearings and there is quite a bit of play in the big ends, again plastiguage says I am right on the limit - I can see a rebuild in it's near future :(

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With advice of engine builder I should be able to get away with running as is.

I believe the big ends gave me .003" clearance.. max spec is .004" according to the manual. I would have liked to be in the .0025" range.

Going to try a second set of bearing tonight and see if the clearances change, if so It's time to lube up the crank and bearing and put everything together for real.

Anyone dealt with Spiral Locks before to hold the pison gudgeon pins in? first time using these and WHAT A PAIN!! that was until I watch a video with a much ebtter technique.. stretch them out and then install. take about 1 min per lock vs 15-20mins.

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Have Crank, Rod and Pistons lubed up and fully installed. Ran into issues with Oil pump which has stopped me in my tracks.

Thread about it here:

 

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Block, Crank, Rods and Pistons are together and torqued up to spec with the new studs.

Now I have issues of mis-matched pulleys so trying to scramble together a full set that will work.

I managed to machine down the oil pump pulley from @mjrstar by shortening it and increasing the ID of the very last 10mm or so on the pulley and it now fits but sits about 2mm proud of the old pulley. Wont know if this is going to be a problem until I have it all connected up with the belt.

Will also need to source another of the pulleys as this one has a few chips out of it but was a good proof of concept that it "should" hopefully work.

I also managed to get a crank pulley off @mjrstar but after comparing these it doesn't look like I can make this work - Do you want this back mate?

As per the thread above I may have sourced a crank pulley with round teeth which is identicle to my original pulley.

In the mean time I will be scanning a copy of the intake gasket and drawing it up on the computer to send off to get it laser cut in 12mm plate steel/aluminium so I can start building my intake manifold for the Weber DCOE 45 Carbs and water routing. If anyone knows what format these drawing should be in please let me know, would like to get done ASAP.

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Another minor update. These arrived:

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Still struggling to find a pulley for the 12mm oil pump, can't really go any further without this which is a bit dissapointing. 

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Have received the oil pump pulley which is the correct part for a 6-bolt, oil pump is correct for a 6-bolt... surprise surprise this pulley does not fit either...

I'm stumped here.. If anyone can offer advice i'm all ears...

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I did find another part number... MD122692 Found this here: http://projectzerog.com/sohc-dohc.shtml

This does actually look a little narrower... Just need to confirm shaft size, can anyone get more detail on this part number?

 

MD122692 - Camshaft & valve for Eterna Sigma TNPWP2

       
  
No PNC# OEM part number Required
per car
Name Spec Notes Color
1 04044 MD096389 01 SPROCKET,ENG OIL PUMP       1985.05.1 - 1988.09.3 ALL
<
   
  Replacement MD122692  
2 04044 MD122692 01 SPROCKET,ENG OIL PUMP       1988.10.1 - 1990.03.3 ALL
<
 

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Machined the new pulley, put head on block along with all pulleys and tensioner - looks like it will work a dream if I can source a belt an extra 3mm wider as all the pulleys now line up after I modify the crank pulley from a later model. 

Pics for thread, none of head etc as it was getting very late by then. 

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Block is more or less complete. Managed to find a wider tensioner and belt which will work with the later model crank pulley, got oil pump pulley to suit finally. 

Ground and polished the sharp edges off the pistons and combustion chamber where the blank off plugs went in. 

Have tested the valve to piston clearance and it sits around 1.5.. Which is good. 

On tonight's agent a is to time it all up and fit the belt for real. 

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Attemped the engine timing today, was a late night a few days ago and nothing was making sense.

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The timing is VERY close to the cam sheet, I would say the differences (about 5 degrees off) are down to the lash adjustment.

Shortened lash adjusters to rocker cover would fit, installed cam seal and a few other loose ends.

Few MAJOR set backs today... dont really wanna talk about it I am so embarrased/not happy about it but here it goes.

Lesson #1 - Dont try and turn the camshaft with a screw driver because you are trying to save time and think you dont need to bolt up the pulley and turn it from there... You end up breaking the keyway off and taking a chunk out of your brand new cam. Luckily I was in my dads workshop with access to his welding skills and lathe to fix it back up. I am so glad it was him and not my mistake in this instance!!

Lesson #2 - Dont do up all bolts "tight"! After refitting the cam and tightening up the cam gear a bolt was turning and turning, it wasnt until we removed and tightened the bolt a further 2 more times we checked the torque sheet and found it didnt need to be very tight at all, may have pulled a few threads but it is tight and not moving.. worry about then in another 300,000k's when the head comes off again.

Machined the later model VR4? cam gear and made up a aluminium flange to suit, this was to accept the new wider 24mm belt and tensioner but still keep the correct offsets.

Here is the progress for the day, next step is to get an intake flange cut and start work on mounting these carbs!

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Bit more of an update, have mocked up a new intake flange with my 3d printer, have it pretty spot on now. Just waiting for some quotes to come back to get this cut out of 12mm aluminium plate. 

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Got the flange cut, realy nice job they have done cutting it out, jst need to port match the intake holes and we are good to go, any got any tips in doing this?

 

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Last night efforts! Bruised, covered in gearbox oil and dirty engine oil. Just left with a load of bolts and brackets which I have no idea where they came from haha

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Have had my radiator re-cored. Have gone from 70 tubes to 120 and the tube size has gone from 10mm to 12.4mm which should make a big difference.

Also have The flange for the carb side done.. still trying to work out how I am going to build this manifold.. the carbs are 40mm and needs to taper down to 38-39mm, I am thinking of just getting some thick walled aluminium and machining it out on a taper to acheive this, or get some thin walled tube and cut a V in it and re-weld to create the taper - What are your thoughts? how have you guys done it in the past?

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