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Gavs GQ Safari Y60


~Slideways~

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Aluminium air blocker thing finished and riveted on:

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Top view, because I was on the deck.

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Inside view with rubber foam tape to seal the frame with the intercooler surface:

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Scoop sanded and painted. I am reminded of why rattle can spraying sucks...but it turned out ok.

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When the paint is dry I'll silicon glue and rivet it on:

 

IMG_4945.jpg.671fcea0dec404c61b3009c438b62d65.jpg 

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Scoop fitted!

I used silicon glue UV and heat resistant stuff, and some big rivets.

 

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I sealed the back in the centre with the same sealer, want as much pressure as possible to stop under bonnet hot air trying to push out (from radiator and below engine).

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I went for a quick test drive, it was hot as fck the thermometer read 28deg in the shade. But I took it for a drive, running over 1 bar of boost previously (pre scoop but with bonnet hole) made the whole intercooler hot. Now I can put my arm right in the scoop and feel the inlet side is hot (easy to touch) and the outlet side is cool! 

 

Might still fit a fan below it for slow moving 4wding.

 

 

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you really really want to put a fan get air flowing through from the top (cold air from outside) and down into the engine bay.

air to airs ontop of the engine are so compromised on 4x4s offroad because you have no forward speed for the scoop to do anything, instead you end up having a chimney where air heated by the exhaust, radiator and engine block is flowing up through the intercooler and not doing anything good for IATs.

 

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1 hour ago, Testament said:

you really really want to put a fan get air flowing through from the top (cold air from outside) and down into the engine bay.

air to airs ontop of the engine are so compromised on 4x4s offroad because you have no forward speed for the scoop to do anything, instead you end up having a chimney where air heated by the exhaust, radiator and engine block is flowing up through the intercooler and not doing anything good for IATs.

 

Yep my thoughts too, I'm looking for a 24v fan to suit so I don't have to stuff around with 12v things like I have before (i.e. the water to air setup which drained batteries due to inverters etc).

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9 hours ago, Giant said:

Why did you decide top mount over front mount

Originally I fitted a water to air intercooler for the best of both worlds, but it had a leak so it got water into the intake (it was from an st205 GT4 so pretty old). 

I decided on top mount because I still have working aircon so bugger all room, I only just got the w2a radiator to fit.

I'd have to hole saw big holes for FMIC plumbing too and didn't want to do that, technically would need to be certified again too.

 

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I went the front mount route with my one, managed to get it to fit with the aircon in place and only a slight shave to the back of the grill but your right it needed two holes.  I like what youve done with your truck, keep up with the updates!

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19 hours ago, Stu said:

I went the front mount route with my one, managed to get it to fit with the aircon in place and only a slight shave to the back of the grill but your right it needed two holes.  I like what youve done with your truck, keep up with the updates!

Thanks man, re the FMIC does yours have a PTO? I was thinking of mounting a FMIC lower at first but the PTO is just in the way. 

What turbo setup have you got on yours?

 

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No mine doesnt have a PTO yet, Ive got part of the kit but not the whole lot yet.  I measured it up against a mates truck with a PTO and it clears, the cooler is no lower than the bottom of the grill.  Its a 600x300 core. 2.5inch piping.  And fuck it made a big difference.  My EGTs dropped by well over 120 degrees pre turbo and it holds the hills way better.  Running up to 18psi on a crappy 60 trim T3 thing. Ive got a td05h sitting waiting to go on but ive also got a smaller AR T3 exhaust housing and want to try that first.  Currently helping a mate with his td42 turbo manifold using an old T4 I had on the starlet years ago, should go better than mine.

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On 2/9/2018 at 23:43, Stu said:

No mine doesnt have a PTO yet, Ive got part of the kit but not the whole lot yet.  I measured it up against a mates truck with a PTO and it clears, the cooler is no lower than the bottom of the grill.  Its a 600x300 core. 2.5inch piping.  And fuck it made a big difference.  My EGTs dropped by well over 120 degrees pre turbo and it holds the hills way better.  Running up to 18psi on a crappy 60 trim T3 thing. Ive got a td05h sitting waiting to go on but ive also got a smaller AR T3 exhaust housing and want to try that first.  Currently helping a mate with his td42 turbo manifold using an old T4 I had on the starlet years ago, should go better than mine.

 

  

That's a nicely routed bit of plumbing, I like it. I haven't been able to test mine much but I used to be able to get 650deg pre turbo chugging up a a long hill in 4th. Now it seems to be about 500 and pulls much better, before it used to start slowing down. I wasn't paying too much attention at the time and it drops so fast that I may have missed the max reading so will do some better testing later.

It'll be really interesting to see what the water/meth injection does. 

 

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Thanks, I tried to keep it tight and I really wanted to keep aircon so its all a bit of a squeeze.  I get about 550 absolute peak now when really really loaded up, used to get 65- to 680, tempted to wind the pump back just a bit to bring it down closer to 500.  Not so fussed if it drops a psi or two of boost in the process.

 

 

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Drove this to Tauranga with my heavy tandem trailer and found the water temp would climb on long hills unless you are in 4th or even 3rd. 

EDIT: EGT's were still well under 600deg pre turbo.

EDIT 2: An intercooler joiner blew off some time after Taihape. Duct tape fix.

Its a brand new (well a few 1000km ago) triple core copper/brass upgraded one made in the UAE for like I don't know, deserts or sand drags? When I fitted it, the water temp would sit rock solid at below half way no matter what I did, even towing the same trailer with a rolling body 200sx on it.

So I'm pretty sure its because I haven't removed the w2a radiator which will be restricting air flow to the radiator and A/C condenser. With the A/C on the temp would climb on hills, with it off the temp would be ok unless really letting it work hard in 5th. On the flat it doesn't move, so I think having a 3rd radiator in front is the problem which makes me glad I went for a top mount interheater.

Maybe a FMIC wouldn't block so much?

On the way home it was getting dark and colder, and with out the A/C on it wasn't a problem.

Another conclusion is that towing about 1500kg it doesn't have enough power, I've barely added any fuel so hopefully the standard 10mm pump can provide enough.

 

Turangi for BK dinner on the way home (BK isn't very good is it...)

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Got home at 1am and it was still there:

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Leaving Tauranga at around 5pm and of course it starts pissing down out of nowhere, got soaked covering the electrics:

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Sorry for the hijack, but seems to be some smart diesel peeps looking in on here.

How important/beneficial is a intercooler for a standard application? I have rd28t in my Gloria wagon, straight out of a gq I believe (non-intercooled). Everyone is telling me to put an intercooler on (a lot of whom don't own turboed diesels), but is it necessary? Or do I need to measure the EGT's and/or intake temps first to decide? Will I see any benefits if the EGT's and/or intake temps are OK to begin with?

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