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Arduino stuff/ programing/so cheap


flyingbrick

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Mount that rectifier away from anything that may melt, they can get fucking hot.

I found that the voltage in DC circuit went up whenever I turned the light on, no idea why or how but I'm guessing it's something to do with the common ground between the AC and DC circuits and the way the rectifiers work.

Would go from about 14v at cruising rpm to 16-18v.

Maybe your larger capacitor will help with that though.

nZv6yRX.jpg

 

 

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19 minutes ago, Ned said:

how is it wired up?

Looks like there is a connection on the rectifier not being used??

That's the AC input without a wire in the pic, the wire I used I cut to length to suit where I had the rectifier mounted and it had a female spade terminal.

/Basically it wasn't hooked up as it wasn't mounted.

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4 hours ago, Raizer said:

Mount that rectifier away from anything that may melt, they can get fucking hot.

I found that the voltage in DC circuit went up whenever I turned the light on, no idea why or how but I'm guessing it's something to do with the common ground between the AC and DC circuits and the way the rectifiers work.

Would go from about 14v at cruising rpm to 16-18v.

Maybe your larger capacitor will help with that though.

nZv6yRX.jpg

 

 

From my experience there are three seperate issues that require solving. People everywhere struggle with this and theres a few (for example) on the moped page that keep sharing information thats slightly incorrect for most people.

Iv been over this a few times so sorry to bore everyone but im going to start again.

If you are going DC then we will assume you are also going 12v

1, you need to rectify your AC signal to DC

2, you need to regulate this to 12v

3, the resulting power supply is 12v dc (as far as we are all concerned) but its TERRIBLE in that it still varies from 0 to 12 (or 14v or whatever)

If you dont fix 3, voltage appears to vary as the frequency of the pulses changes, the only way of getting a decent voltage reading is to use a scope. LED lamps will work like shit, incandescent lamps take ages to warm and cool so seem to smooth the voltage out a bit. A stack of capacitors (as you know) makes things tons better. 

 

Again, i have said this so many times but people dont get it.

The common "trail tech" units do NOT regulate and rectify.. they only perform one function (iv been drinking and cannot remember which one of the two it is). 

They do have a more expensive model (about $140 delivered) which (with a capacitor) gives absolutely rock solid voltage and DC.

:-D

Come visit and see my rock solid DC plz.

 

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I do lots of compares to last value to minimize writes to my screen.

Every value i declare twice so store last value:

Int RPM =0;

Int RPM_old = 0;

Then in code: 

If (RPM != RPM_old)

*Stuff to do if value is different goes here*

RPM_old = RPM;

]

 

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4 hours ago, Ghostchips said:

Got that sorted, cheers.

But now i've got a problem with it sending certain execute_CMD's over softwareserial that doesn't appear to be hardware related.  Was working fine before though.

What are you writing over serial to/from? 

Perhaps add some commenting at each part of your loop so you can see on the serial monitor what's happening / where it gets stuck? 

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2 hours ago, Roman said:

What are you writing over serial to/from? 

Perhaps add some commenting at each part of your loop so you can see on the serial monitor what's happening / where it gets stuck? 

I"m not that advanced AKA IDK how to do that.
Edit: i think i figured that out.  Trying now


execute_CMD(0x03, 0, 0x0009);
Works perfectly.  Now it works but
execute_CMD(0x03, 0, 0x0014); ceased working.

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Hmm. Ok, serial print shows that the input is working well enough, just any command over 0x0009 doesn't work at all.  I had it up to 0014 and it worked fine, spec'ed 0020 & 0019 back when it was working to see what would happen.  It tried.  Weird bug maybe.

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