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Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate


Hurmeez

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27 minutes ago, Nominal said:

can't really use a pedal when you are kneeling on the floor welding a chassis tab

Or welding under a dash etc. 

When I'm welding something new, like different thicknesses or material or weld join type and everything is going well I write the settings etc down in a book I have near the welder. I'm still learning and it helps to gain an idea and memory for what works and what doesn't. 

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Keeping notes is always a good idea in my experience too. I've got a whole clear file full of receipts and details about which parts I've used and what wrecker car they've come off and so forth. Should be invaluable when the gearbox mount wears out or I need a rebuild kit for the brakes or what have you.

I actually found a neat little cardboard number wheel from BOC in the empire of dirt the other day that tells you what amps, filler, gas, travel speed, dip rate etc. etc. to use for a bunch of different material gauges and types. It's bloody handy but now I have to figure out where the safe place is that I saved it. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I had looked into doing a similar crossover type of inlet and I had found that due to the shape of the inlet ports along with position of the bolts that hold the inlet flanges to the head it was not going to be a feasible task. I was however looking at it in simple fabrication terms, using  tig welded alloy and what ever else I had easily at disposal. Possibly could be done with magical use of laminates etc because.. well....fuck- just look how sexy that above picture is!!!!

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Looking good and you could use stock injector setup or the ports in throttle bodies 

also that rocker cover vent that links the two covers together can be deleted - later klg4 engines don't have the link and no adverse effects 

or fit pcv valve to there and block other 2 as I guess stock pcv valve hole is right under an intake runner ? 

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@fuel I did consider a cross ram style intake but as @yoeddynz said, the port spacing made it difficult to fit the runners between each other, especially with the 50mm tubing I had to work with. It is a shame cause they're a great packaging solution and look great too!

@Transom I didn't realise that about the vent tubes. You're exactly right about the pcv being directly under a runner on the other side. I was going to come up with a custom tight radius 90 degree bend to fit it but if I could just plug it and use the driver's side vent then that'd be a lot easier. 

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Yeah that's looking sweet!  I too would get a posh person to weld those up if at all in doubt- like ya say ..everyone will see them as soon as you open the bonnet.

Man you could make some sweet looking filters to suit them. Like one piece long K&N style. Buy some filter material and make alloy plates to sandwich it.

Or just be a boss and stick an individual chrome Ramflo on each ITB.  It is an escort after all so needs Ramflo technology....

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  • 1 month later...

nice work mate.

I didn't get the IACV with mine but ended up with the exact same as yours and from pick a part. ( can get new ones on aliexpress for 20 bucks lol).

you lucked out with the v10 mate. been looking at using a set on a pinto I'm building  for my mk5 and they used the ITBs on all performance  bmw motors. so there is a v8 set ... and the y have all the injector and idle air system all neatly tucked away on each bank..(and some dismantlers will sell you 1 bank ).

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I had one of those IAC valves retro fitted to my CA18ET with the link Storm, because the factory setup was weird and complicated. But it had trouble controlling the idle. It was not responsive enough, so when you got off the gas, the idle would go too low then too high then too low until it stabilised.

I ended making an adapter to fit a later model nissan IAC from the 90's. It fixed the response problem and was also much smaller. 

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5 minutes ago, Adoom said:

I had one of those IAC valves retro fitted to my CA18ET with the link Storm, because the factory setup was weird and complicated. But it had trouble controlling the idle. It was not responsive enough, so when you got of the gas

They have had the same problem with them when turboing  a bmw .. ( something to do with the air from the turbo still beibg present when shutting of the gas ).

Should be fine for a NA motor. .....time will tell  we are both using them on NA motors that's are totally different and not bmw haha

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RE; the throttle cable pulley. I worked back from my pedal. I worked out how much cable that pulled, after having extended its arm to pull as much as possible. I think it was something like 40mm. Then I machined a round pulley the appropriate diameter which opened 90 degrees with 40mm of pull. But as you know from the thread it was too linear. So I just offset the centre and set it so roughly the first 25mm of pull only opened the throttle 1/3rd or what ever. It was pretty simple ruler, compass and 3.14 stuff really. Worked a treat.

Damn I'm still so tempted to put a V6 in my wagon...especially after listening to my mates car here....

 

 

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You know, I knew all of that already but I never put the fact that you could wrap the throttle cable around the pulley as much as you like and it's still only going to pull it through 90 degrees if you've got the radius of the wheel right. The fact that yours was wrapped almost half way round was really messing with my head. Thanks for explaining it so well. 

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