Hurmeez Posted August 31, 2017 Author Share Posted August 31, 2017 No pic update tonight. Looking for advice and opinions. I've managed to locate a gearbox in Auckland which is close enough for me to be willing to drive down and pick it up. It comes with everything from yoke to bell housing including throw out bearing and clutch lever but no clutch, pressure plate, or flywheel. So I'm at a bit of a cross roads. There seem to be two different options for how people adapt the RX-8 box to the V6. They both require the use of an adapter plate because there are no RWD boxes that bolt up the the V6 but I think I'll tackle that issue later on. For now I'm thinking about the flywheel and clutch situation. At the moment the motor I have is bolted to an auto box so I'm going to need to find a flywheel of some sort. One option is to use the rotary flywheel with a spacer adapter to take it from the single nut used on the rotary motor crank to the six bolts used on the V6. This is clairetoo's flywheel she did for this conversion. This option has the advantage of retaining the stock rotary clutch, pressure plate, and starter motor position and I already know where I can get the whole lot with minimal effort. The other option used by Alex in his Viva is to use a stock (or aftermarket) V6 flywheel with a machined spacer to bring it out to the correct position relative to the gearbox input shaft. I believe he used the V6 clutch and pressure plate which matched up the the rotary input splines. The complication of this method is that the starter needs machining to bring it in toward the flywheel center because the flywheel is 10mm smaller in diameter than the rotary one. Also I can't find a V6 flywheel anywhere but in a 626 in a pick-a-part in Auckland. Normally I'd be happy to go and pull it but I don't have an engine crane to pull the motor, and it's a long way to go. I'd be worried that I couldn't pull the motor in a day and then I'm stuck in Auckland overnight with a half pulled engine. So at the moment I'm leaning more toward the rotary flywheel because it keeps things as simple as possible and keeps the most stock parts on the car which is always a good idea if I ever needed to do maintenance. But there's one thing holding me back. I've read online that the rotary flywheels have a counterweight built in to balance the effect of the dorito wobbling around in the engine. I'm thinking though that putting that on a regular piston engine it will be totally out of balance and make a mess of everything. Does anyone know if this is the case? At the moment I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be an issue simply because Claire has already done it on her project. Finally, I'm thinking about building my own engine to gearbox adapter plate. I've looked at how much it would cost to import one from the UK and right now I'd rather have a go at making my own. I have access to a big milling machine for drilling the actual holes so I'm not too concerned with that aspect, but what I am not completely sure about is how I should go about measuring the positions of the holes as accurately as I'll need to to ensure a good mating between the two components. I have some ideas but I'd be keen to know your guys' suggestions. Phew! That's it. If you've made it this far and actually read it all then well done. I'd be only too keen to hear everyone's opinions. Chuck it all in here: 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 Alright time to make up for the time I've been away. Prepare for a pic dump for the ages. I've been working on buttoning up the bottom front corner of the driver's side inner wing. In the last post I got the outer skin of the chassis leg all finished up so now I'm working on the other side. I sprayed the inside of the rail and the back side of the bumper mount reinforcing plate before I clamped it up ready for welding. I tried to position the welds close to where they were originally for no reason other than neatness. Then I welded it all on, including some tacks to the crush tubes,. This might seem a bit on the weak side but that's what was holding the original pieces together so once again, good enough for Uncle Henry... And cleaned it all up while I was there. Now it was time to start thinking about fitting up my inner wing repair panel that I made up months and months ago before I realised just how much of a mission all this front end work was going to be. This part is going to dictate where the front valence panel will mount so it's fairly critical that I get it in the right spot. Thankfully, some clever bloke thought about all of this before hand. When I went to all that trouble to make my guards bolt on, I made sure they bolted to the front valence in a way that held it tight to the inner wings while they were still there at the time. Therefore, I should be able to clamp the front panel up to the upper inner wings that I already know are in the right place, bolt them to the guards, and then clamp my lower inner wing repair panel to the valence to show me where it needs to go. If none of that made any sense, don't worry, I took photos. So to start, clamping the front panel to the upper inner wings. Like this. Then bolt the guards on... The repair panel actually jammed in place by itself which was handy. Then I passed some bolts through the crush tubes with some grease on the ends and spun them once they touched the new panel. This put a grease spot in the position of the hole for the crush tube which I could then center punch and drill through. Which gave me this... The holes weren't in the perfect place and the tack welds made it difficult to fit so I opened each hole out with a die grinder until it fit nicelyish. This photo shows what the panel was that I had to work with. It's hard to see properly from this angle but there was quite a gap between where the panels were and where they needed to be in order to butt up together nicely. I decided to bolt up the brake booster mount to try and brace everything a bit and stop myself from pulling things too far trying to make my panel fit Uncle Henry's. Goodness knows how effective it will be but at the very least it makes me feel better about myself. Then I went ahead and opened the hole out further to more closely fit my panel. At this point I started to go the other way and began to trim my panel to fit the hole. Once it was fairly close I started to clamp it into position. Once I had it all fully trimmed up and holes drilled for plug welds I sprayed everything with a good coat of weld through primer. Once it was dry it got clamped up once again and tacked in place with the TIG. I figured now would be a good time to double check the front valance fit before I do all the plug welds. Once they're in it'll be a real prick to try and adjust. Looks pretty good to me. So I set to and broke out the MIG to fill in all those holes. Turned out well. Good penetration all round. And that's about as far as I got. I decided to clean up a bit before I did all the TIG welding fully, as well as pulling out the cross member for better access. So that's it for this week. Next plan is to finish up the welding on the driver's side inner wing then give the fab work a rest for a bit and get my ass into gear with pulling the V6 out of the Mazda. Hopefully the welding shouldn't take too long but these things always seem to for me. I'll be sure to keep you guys posted. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 I got a quick bit of welding done last night before work. Not much but it's progress. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 Made a fruitful trip down to Auckland last night. Picked up a couple of goodies to help move the project along. I finally have a gearbox to start using for mocking up making mounts and so forth. Considering how huge it looks, it's crazy how similar in size it is to the old type 9 and yet it can handle so much more abuse. You can see I've slotted the driveshaft from the Type 9 into the RX-8 box and the splines actually match perfectly. The issue is that the outer diameter of the yoke is smaller than the RX-8 so it doesn't run in the bearings or seals correctly. So I'll have to find an RX-8 yoke and use that to get a custom driveshaft built. Oh well. You win some you lose some. Speaking of winning some, I got my hands on a more suitable diff too, out of a Mk 4 Cortina. They came fitted with an Atlas axle as standard, the same as those fitted to the Capri, but with different mounting points. The current tentative plan is to eventually get it shortened by a friend of my dad's and then sort myself out a six link setup that somehow retains the rear seat. That's all a long way off yet though in all probability. For now I'm just going to run with the English rear axle and be careful. Hopefully that will let it last for a little while at least. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted September 10, 2017 Author Share Posted September 10, 2017 Time for a weekend update. I spent all of Saturday working on my mates HZ Holden ute rebuilding his front suspension with new bushes and ball joints which only left today to work on the Estate. I started by finish welding the whole driver's side inner wing repair section. It all turned out pretty good. I went ahead and ground it all back. There are a few sections that could have been done better but at the end of the day almost every weld line will be covered by other panels so I'm not overly worried. So I cleaned it all down and gave it a quick lick of paint. I didn't put too much effort into grinding back this side since it will all be covered by stone chip so it will be invisible anyway. Then I spent the rest of the day trying to get the engine pulled out of the Mazda. It started out looking like this, And ended up looking like this. We pulled the intake manifold off to give ourselves a clearer view of everything, then started to unplug all the loom connections, labeling each. Ended up getting everything unplugged and moved on to thinking about how to get the motor out. The easiest option seemed to be to pull the axles out of the front hubs and drop the whole subframe out the bottom of the car. The thinking was that we wouldn't have the room to pull the engine off the gearbox so both units would have to come out as one and the easiest way to do that would be the reverse of how the factory put them in. So I set too popping the lower ball joint and tried to crack the main nut off the end of the axle. I used a breaker bar because I don't have an impact gun. This caused my half inch drive to snap off in the socket. Bugger. I called it a day there and decided to have a break for a while. I've had a think about it and a better way might be to crack off and pull all the torque converter bolts to the flex plates if I can get access. Then I won't need to pull the engine and box apart so much to get it out and I might be able to pull the engine out from the top. A job for tomorrow night maybe. On the bright side I've double checked the maximum dimensions and it definitely will fit in my engine bay. That's a relief. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Hurmeez Posted September 12, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 12, 2017 Big win tonight! Made a big hole... And filled another... Tonight was focused on simply getting the motor out of the car and by the time that happened it was pretty late so I spent very little time at all putting the engine in the right place. That said, considering how worried I was that it would be a tight fit requiring lots of firewall cutting, I'm very happy with the initial mock up. It is nowhere near the final height in the engine bay, nor tilted correctly fore and aft or side to side, but the over all length looks like it will fit a radiator just fine and the sump shouldn't require much extensive modification. I'll have to get the gearbox adapter plate finalised before I can get the engine position sorted but there's still a few steps before that can happen. Still, progress has occurred. 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Hurmeez Posted September 19, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 19, 2017 This has been my week. I have tremendous newfound respect for the late model car guys. What a nightmare trying to work on all the modern stuff! I've spent the last week stripping out the Mazda for all the parts I'll ultimately need to get the engine running in the Escort. This has basically only meant the loom and the in tank fuel pump assembly but to get to them I had to essentially fully strip the interior of the car. With the loom now out I can wheel the Mazda back outside and forget about it for the near future while people buy parts off it until I inevitably take it to the wreckers. That means I can get back to focusing on working on the Escort. I'd love to dive straight in to making an adapter plate and getting the engine and box mated and mounted but I don't want to get ahead of myself. I'm going to get the front end fabrication work completed first, meaning new chassis leg and inner wing on the passengers side just as before so I can put it behind me and forget about it. Then I'll do the engine and box work before I fully mount the front radiator support panels or the front panel. This will let me swing the engine straight into the front of the car while I'm mocking it up instead of trying to tilt and wrestle it down into the engine bay every time it needs to go in or out. Doing it this way also lets me put the car back on it's wheels a bit earlier and I am really looking forward to that, let me tell you. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 So it's been nearly a month. I suppose an update is in order. Be warned this is going to be a lot of words with not many pictures, but it's good to blow to dust off the old grey matter every now and then with a bit of reading. Firstly a quick update on the fabrication front. I've made decent progress on the passenger side chassis leg replacement. It was much easier to do the second time round once I knew what I was doing. I made quick work of the outer skin giving it all the appropriate modifications and "crumple zones," same as the other side. Same story for the inner rail with giving it the pressed in weak zone and welding in the crush tubes for the ARB mounting brackets. I didn't take many photos of these processes because it looks very much like the first time I did it and ya'll don't want to see a bunch of repeats. I got to the stage where I was ready to weld each skin together but I ran out of weld through primer so I had to nip to the shops to pick some up. They didn't have any of the previous copper based paint I had used and what's more they don't stock it anymore so I had to take what I could get. Turns out that was this: For anyone hoping to use it, don't. It's awful shit. I followed the directions on the can and sprayed everything down that I was going to weld in the correct way. Then I got everything mocked up ready for welding and started pouring in the amps with the TIG to plug weld in the reinforcement/locating plates just like the first time. It fizzed and farted when I struck the arc and generally made a mess initially. Then it was very difficult to get it to form a weld pool and once it finally did it would sit for a second before making a big pop and splashing up all over the electrode. I'd regrind it and try again but eventually it got so bad it got the gas cup red hot and broke a big chunk off of it which fucked it. Unsurprisingly, this pissed me off. So I tried using the MIG. It rendered similar results. Zero penetration and ugly ugly welds. I also ran out of time and had to ship off on holiday with the family so that is as far as the fabrication got. Meanwhile I made a bit of a start with stripping down the V6. I got rid of all the luxury equipment (power steering and AC pumps) and pulled the alternator off as well; basically getting the motor back to its bare basics. I realised that contrary to what I had been told, it is actually the lower spec 160ish hp engine with lower compression, less aggressive cams, and slightly worse flowing heads. I can't say I'm super surprised but I am still somewhat disappointed. On the upside the lower compression lends itself better to some mild boost down the road but for now I'm going to keep trying for the higher spec NA motor route. I had a look around one of the Pick a Parts in Auckland while I was down there doing other shit but didn't have a lot of time to look very hard. Although there were a few lower spec engines, I didn't find what I was looking for. Unfortunately it's a long way for me to drive to check on every new car that turns up at the wreckers so for now I'll have to soldier on with what I have. I can still use this motor for making up mounts and so forth but it means I'm still on the lookout for a KLZE engine if anyone can help me out. To keep moving forward I got the newly stripped motor hung up on the hoist and swung into position to have a closer look at how it would fit. I didn't take any photos for some reason but you'll have to take my word for it on the details. The engine fits really well with the front sump having a good amount of clearance to the cross member when the engine is placed as far rearwards as the distributor will allow. There are plenty of tapped holes on the side of the block just begging to be used for mounting brackets right near the stock engine mount posts on the factory cross member. This means I'll easily be able to make mounts that pick up the cross member, rather than doing a chassis mount. This lets me drop the whole front suspension and engine out as one unit if I ever want to. The only issue is that the engine is too far forward. I measured the gearbox from shifter to bellhousing and then measured the distance from the shifter hole in the trans tunnel to the bellhousing mounting holes on the engine block with it mocked up in the bay. The block to tunnel hole distance was abour 100mm longer than the same measurement on the transmission. Ironically this is about the distance I shifted the hole back to fit the old ford 5 speed. This means I have two options. 1: I could cut the tunnel again and move the shifter hole forward again to make everything fit with the engine where it currently sits. Or 2: I could shift the engine back the appropriate amount to put the shifter in the right position to line up with the hole in the trans tunnel. The first option requires me to undo more work I have already done which, while not too much work, I'd rather not in principle. The second means the engine gets set further back in the car. This means I have more room in the front for a radiator and fans, and, ultimately, room for an intercooler wouldn't go amiss. Also, race cars have their engines set way back too so... This means I'll probably have to modify the sump to clear the cross member but that's not too much work. I'll also have to come up with a solution to making the distributor clear the firewall. As it sits now, shifting the engine back will require either the firewall to be modified, or the distributor to be removed. In the process of stripping down the engine I found points on the harmonic balancer and a factory mounting point for a crank angle sensor on the block casting. This means I have plenty of parts to convert the engine to crank triggered ignition and either remove, or severely cut down the distributor to fit the new position. All I will really need is an aftermarket ECU. And an expert wouldn't go amiss either. Luckily I have a father in law that is a very well connected, skilled, and experienced automotive sparky and he had already given me plenty of advice on moving forward down this path. Going aftermarket ECU will give me the added bonus of learning to fiddle with tunes and so forth and really get the most out of my motor. So there you have it. To conclude, fuck 3M zinc based weld through primer, I still want to find a KLZE engine, I have a plan for mounting the engine in the car, and I have a plan for converting the engine to crank triggered ignition. If you've slogged through all of that, thank you very much for your time. More consistent updates to come. Merry October to all, and to all a good night. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 Just to prove that I have been doing shit, behold the passenger side chassis leg in all its Ferrari red glory... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 Further developments for the long weekend. I started off by noticing that the brand new chassis leg was about 30mm higher than its buddy on the other side. Initially, I was going to start swinging on it to bring it back down to spec but then I realised that for all I knew the whole car was sitting skew-wiff. So for once and for all, I got the car levelised on its axle stands. I used the untouched factory sill as a datum. So once it was all level the leg was still a little bit out relative to its offsider mate. Just a little (probably due to the crash that caused the big dent in the bumper which I mentioned in a very early post), but enough to bug me and make me want to fix it. So I looked up where it should be in the bible, then clamped up a nice long lever arm and used the momentum of gravity to tweak it down. Now it's primo. Then I started working on the inner guard replacement. This isn't super clear but it's a picture of the initial clamp up I did to mark it out and see where it needed trimming. You can see on the right-hand side the big gap where someone got too enthusiastic with the trimming a while ago. So I had to set to and fill that gap up. As per my normal method of adding material to fix cock-ups, I welded on way more than I need to help pull the heat away from the weld. Then I cut off the excess with the angle grinder. Here it is clamped up ready for welding. And here it is but a moment later... Didn't quite get it cleaned up yet because I decided to finish welding the rest of the replacement panels up the front of the inner wing first. That will be tomorrow's job. I also whipped up a quick locating tool for the input shaft of the gearbox when I get around to making up my adapter plate. The knurled end slides over the input shaft of the gearbox and the other end sits in the end of the crankshaft nicely. It will be very helpful in a few weeks I hope. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 Time for another wee-hour tale from old Uncle Hurmeez then... I began Monday morning with finish welding the front inner wing repair. This quickly turned into Monday afternoon but the main point was that I got the bastard finished. Proof of finishing said bastard: But it simply wouldn't do to leave it as it was. And so I set to with the grinder and brought the shiny back out of it: Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get into every spot with the flap wheel and so the back side of the big vertical weld remains unground, along with some of the welds near the bumper mount panel on the inside. However, I feel I have been a very good boy this year and I'm hoping to find a power file in my Santa sack this year. If so, that will make short work of any more cleaning up I need to do. For now though, I was happy enough to give it a quick prime to keep the rust away and call it done. While I was in the vicinity, I noticed another hole that I made while I was butchering the battery box out. It had been there long enough so I set to filling it. It was a nice simple patch which made a nice change of pace from the rest of the work. Sweet. If you didn't know, you'd never know. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Hurmeez Posted October 24, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 24, 2017 Once I had that all buttoned up, I turned with giddy excitement to attempting to fit the gearbox into its tunnel. I began by starting to remove the gearbox mounts from the tunnel, which, if you'll cast your mind back a few posts, were fouling on the box. Initially, I started by using a spot weld drill but the big sloppy MIG welds that old me had used were proving to be too much of a pain in the ass so I chose instead to cut around the whole area with a slitting disk and resolved to weld in patches later on. I neglected to take pictures of all this. I then started to hoist the box up into position once more to see how it would fit. It wouldn't. It fouled on the sides of the tunnel, the clutch arm, and part of the bell housing. Even if I was to beat it with a sizable persuader, it was still going to be too tight for my liking. Which means I really only have one option. I've no other choice really. Or I suppose I could make a new tunnel that will fit it (and future proof it too). Yeah, that's probably the best bet considering how much it costs to hire a skip bin these days... So I whipped this up: It might look like one of those fancy Chinese fans right now, but if you can find yourself someone with a really really big hand, then you have a super lightweight, eco-friendly, and super cheap new transmission tunnel. I would have preferred to have a nice straight line from firewall to shifter but I was forced to put a small kink in it. Ten points to whoever can guess why... Unfortunately, my friendly giant that was holding it for me grew attached to it and ran away with my nice new tunnel, so I have been forced to start making another one. That or the first one was only 1:5 scale and it was actually my hand in the picture. Sorry if I ruined the illusion. I took a quick break from the tunnel though because my head has been chipping away at the adapter plate in the background the whole time and there was one thing that was driving me bonkers. I finally decided there was nothing for it but to mock my engine and box up and see for myself. So I got my fancy little locator that I had prepared earlier and slid to two pieces together. Sqeeee!! The excitement!! Now the thing that had been bugging me was this: Both Alex and Steve ( @yoeddynz, and @Transom) said that one of the bolt holes lines up perfectly between the rotary bell housing and the engine. Now I'm not saying they are wrong in any way (they actually have their motors and boxes together which is a step or two ahead of me), but according to my measurements and the drawings I have found online, this simply isn't true. None of the holes line up perfectly from what I could gather. So I finally had a look for myself. I got the engine and box leveled up in all planes and slid them together with my locator in place. This is what I found. The hole that I believe lined up nicely in each of their setups looks like this in mine. To avoid embarrassment I also made sure to check all the others and none of them lined up either. Now as far as I can know, all rotary bell housings use the same bolt pattern so the fact that they used RX7 boxes and mine is RX-8 shouldn't be the issue, however, I have been known to be wrong in the past. It may have been possible that the bolt spacings were adjusted slightly with the new Renesis rotary in the 8 versus the 13b in the 7. I don't know. I do have a plan to move forward from here though. The biggest bummer is the fact that the holes are very close but not close enough. It makes it very difficult when you get fasteners trying to occupy the same place in the adapter plate at the same time. But like I said, I have a plan. It is just not particularly easy to convey through text and without pictures. I'm going to try to find a way to illustrate it for you but for now, sleep easy in the knowledge that I'm pretty sure I can 9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Hurmeez Posted October 30, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 30, 2017 I started making good progress on the adapter plate over the last few days. I used a couple of drawing I found online to merge together and make a rough template of the plate. I used the laser cutter at school to zip it out of heavy card. This is what I got. I wasn't sure as to what size the holes for the gearbox bolts should be so I marked their centers and offered them up instead. It all looked good so I worked on to version two. Which gave me this: It's all looking really good. The plan to sort out the locating dowel at about 10 o'clock has two different options. First, it is a steel dowel pressed into an alloy block. Therefore, if I hit the alloy with some gentle heat from a heat gun I should be able to fairly easily pull the dowel out and ignore it. There should still be plenty of support from the plate without it and it would mean I could bolt the lot up easily without complications. The second option is to bore a blind hole on the back side of the plate about 5mm deep to sit over the dowel. Then drill a through hole from the front to accept the bolt from the gearbox. Assuming I use 12mm plate that would still give me 7mm of thread engagement which on an M11x0.7 thread would give me 10 threads engagement. Or if I used 16mm plate it would be ample thread engagement. The advantage of the first option is the simplicity. I don't have to do any tricky boring and so forth. The disadvantage is I lose the small amount of support the dowel provides, and it means any engine I bolt up to will need to first be modified slightly. I would prefer to keep the engine and box as factory as possible so if I ever have to replace either then it will just be a bolt up job. So obviously I'm leaning toward option two but any input is welcome. In the meantime, I'm going to keep tweaking the outside shape and finetuning the hole positioning in my spare time. On the other front, I made good progress on the new trans tunnel. I finished drawing it up, Then got it cut out and mocked up. It looked good so I transferred the shape to 1mm steel and cut it out. I left heaps of extra around the edge to give me space to trim and fettle because cutting shit off is much easier than adding it back on. Once it was all fully marked up I took it to a friendly neighbourhood workshop with a big brake and tweaked it into shape. Once I got it home I chucked it in the car to quickly see how it would look. It looks pretty smart if I do say so myself. Obviously it's sitting way high at the moment and needs heaps of trimming but the overall shape looks really good. I'd be lying if I said I haven't considered leaving it up there and slamming the car to the ground a la @pe-arce's Mk 1, but I think the bitching stance it would give me wouldn't be worth the grief. In a spare hour or two I also quickly knocked together the gusset that goes between the chassis leg and firewall on the driver's side. I went from the dimensions from the Ford Escort Rally Prep book and folded it up out of 2mm steel. I made sure to seam weld the chassis rail to the inner wing before I welded in the new gusset, then masked the parts where a weld would soon be and gave it a quick spritz with primer. And here it is all welded in. And painted up. I'll get on to the other side later on. It's all marked out ready for cutting so it shouldn't take long now that I know what I'm doing. The next update should hopefully involve a car with a big hole where the trans tunnel should be. We'll see. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 So the adventure begins. I'm heading in to the pick a part now. Wish me luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 Well that was short lived. The car must have been scrapped between when @1963 AP5 looked and today cause it ain't there no more. We're heading over to zebra manuka now because there's supposed to be another one over there. Anyone still keen can meet us there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1963 AP5 Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 Oh bugger I nearly went down to double check mid week as well but thought that it wouldn't be scrapped that quickly. Let me know if you have any luck at zebra I can lend a hand today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 What a bummer. Got to zebra and found the car fairly quickly. Was presented with a head that looked awful for our trouble. I'll put a picture up tonight once I get home but if the head was that caked in crap then the engine was obviously abused over its lifetime and wasn't worth getting. Bit stink but such is life. There'll be more fish in the sea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1963 AP5 Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 That is a real shame! Kicking myself for not stopping by pick a part this week to check the car was still there, I could have saved you the trip down. They actually had several of those V6 Mazda's in there when I looked a couple of weeks ago but only one of them had the engine you are after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 Shit happens mate. No hard feelings whatsoever. Like I said, there'll be plenty more chances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurmeez Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 And as promised, the photos of the head. So as you can see, it is definitely in a bit of a state. What was left of the oil was solid as tar and the lobes were absolutely much worse for wear. I'd hate to think what the bottom end looked like. So for now, I'm still on the hunt but not overly urgently. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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