KKtrips

Mofs Toyota Hiace/Holden

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The issue I have with the gear box choices is that I can't go for a normal manual as it's column shift. I've read that there are Toyota ones that bolt straight on without with but wouldn't be able to change gear lol. 

How feasible would it actually be to put an auto in. I'm not sure how autos actually work but don't they need a sensor and wiring etc which I won't have? 

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Sensor for what?

The vn th700 is hydraulic.

Only wiring they have is for the lockup clutch solenoid. And thats easy to wire up a loom to operate.

You will need a trans cooler. And linkage setup for the throttle pressure cable and a shifter (cable shifter will give you the flexibility for position you need)- b&m, hurst, lokar etc.

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Holy lols, had a double take at the thread title 

Didn't remember buying a van lol

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As promised a few pics of a Weber conversion on a Holden Black 6 and a little info on how to get it done.

I believe Weber carburetors work better than Holley 2 barrels on the factory Holden manifold. The factory manifold on the Black / Blue Holden engine is actually a pretty flash design and the orientation of the throttle butterflies on a Holley 2 barrel is not ideal when using the factory manifold. The orientation of the throttle butterflies on a Weber is the same as the factory carburetor so I would go with a Weber if you decide to use a different carburetor adapted to your factory manifold. 

This is a budget set up as I used a Weber 34ADM from an XF Falcon but I have found it works very well. I picked up the Weber fairly cheap and rebuilt it using a rebuild kit from Weber Specialties in Auckland. You need to make a few small modifications to a Weber 34 to make it work correctly on a Holden 6 and I would be happy to provide more detail if you decide to copy this set up so don't hesitate to ask.

Here is a view of the engine bay

59603d5ce5016_Enginebays.jpg.a6d29e6c4a82815c901064b15be2435a.jpg

And a couple of photos of the carb installed on the factory manifold with an adapter plate.

59603d5e7bd90_Webercarbs.jpg.9f57dee96d769925b2c264668ecb4dc1.jpg

59603d5e22485_Webercarb1s.jpg.53b7f5c3d359820acfd1aff162fdaf18.jpg

The adapter plate I used is an off the shelf Redline item P/N 10-218.

From memory I think this adapter is designed for a Weber 32/36 so you will need to modify it to work with other types of Weber carb. I spent quite a lot of time reworking the adapter plate to get it to fit nicely with the bore size and spacing on the Weber 34 ADM. The adapter plate also needs a vacuum port drilled to ensure the power valve on the Weber operates correctly.

59603e1463e04_Adaptorplates.jpg.9fbdd6f48a5c0a12f7670c8d0e9beca6.jpg

I also had to add an additional spacer plate as shown below to allow the accelerator pump leaver to clear the adapter plate.

This cost nothing but time to make the spacer and additional gaskets so no big deal.

59603d5d65b4a_Spacerdetails.jpg.e96ed5f99fc624136dc2d9cef55ebbad.jpg

There are a couple of very convenient mounts on the factory manifold that allow you to easily make a bracket for your throttle cable as shown here.

59603d5dbf015_Throttlelinkages.jpg.8940afb0ec084ba6a78d57ffe15d30e2.jpg

As you can see in the first pic in this post and the pic above I needed a very low profile air filter assembly to fit under the bonnet of the little Commodore so I went to pick-a- part and I found a suitable item on a twin carb Ford Laser Sport ( mid 80's model I think). I cut the bottom out and made a new base out of thin sheet metal to fit on the Weber carb. Again cheap as chips but gets the job done.

So there is an option for you to think about, low budget but works well.

There is heaps of little details that I haven't covered here but if you decide to do something like this I would be happy to post more info on the conversion.

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Wow. Amazing write up thanks! The budget part really appeals to me. 

I will keep an eye out for an 32/36 as it sounds this would be less work. But if I see the 34 adm for a good price then I know the option is there too. 

Thanks for taking the time to write that up! 

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No worries at all, the chap at Weber Specialities told me that a 32/36 can work well on a std Holden 6 with the correct jetting. The 34 ADM is a very nice fit for these engines however they are getting a little hard to find these days. 

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Not too bad at all, I have the overhaul instructions for the Weber 34 that I am happy to share. So long as you are careful and take your time you can't go too far wrong. I find Weber carbs are pretty easy to understand and there is heaps of good info available if you don't mind doing a little reading. The Rochester Varajet actually isn't a bad carb either. The main problem is that they are tricky to rebuild and get working properly if you are a back yard mechanic like me. That's why a lot of people ditch them and swap them out for something that's a little easier to work with like a Weber or Holley. 

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Hey guys.

Having some trouble with getting water flow pumping to the heater.

I'm not sure if I'm being daft but

  • Should the water pump be pumping water to the heater even when thermostat is shut?
  • The hose that goes from the pump to heater - is this an Outlet.. or an inlet?

I have taken the heater out of the equation and I currently have a u-bend in the cab (lower than the top of the radiator) and the hoses never gets warm. However if I make a u-bend at the engine side of things then it seems to work (and also stops engine over heating). Could it just be that the pump doesn't have enough omph to push water 3 metres?

In that case.. would something like this help? 

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/radiators-cooling-systems/auction-1439597347.htm

Cheers!

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You should have one of these in the line somewhere 

ae86-heater-flow-tap.jpg

Controlled by a cable from the hot/cold control.

Check the cable is attached and opening/ closing it. And water flows through it when it's open. 

It probably won't get hot until the thermostat opens

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I thought that too but there isn't a tap on this set up (probably because its been retrofitted). The only thing my heater switch does is turn the heater fan on.

I replaced all the piping just in case it was super corroded inside. So I know that from the pump to the thermostat that its literally just pipe now.

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The factory heater in my Holden (186) is pretty rubbish as heating. The heater core has water circulating all the time though (no water valve in the line).

Have you checked that the heater hose port on the water pump is actually drilled though? IIRC these are sometimes blocked off in the casting to be 'universal'.

 

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Haha I think it basically works as turn on for hot or off for cold... But hot water always to be going through.  There's a flap I can open which brings in air from outside into the van.

Pretty sure the pump had a hole as I could feel water in it but I'll double check with a pencil or something lol. 

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On 17/10/2017 at 19:45, Nominal said:

The factory heater in my Holden (186) is pretty rubbish as heating. The heater core has water circulating all the time though (no water valve in the line).

Have you checked that the heater hose port on the water pump is actually drilled though? IIRC these are sometimes blocked off in the casting to be 'universal'.

 

Well done Nominal. (Thanks)

The water pump indeed was blocked off. Drilled it and now I have a fully working cooling system I think :). Just need to go for a drive to be sure.

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nah. Still overheats on load. Engine head felt quite cool but steam started venting out :(

Does anyone wanna buy a van that only drives 5km?

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I should point out that the temp gauge was at 230(F)ish at this point too, should I would expect to see steam.. but also expected engine to be hotter.

Cap was pressure tested quite recently also.

Think I'm just gonna take it to the rad shop in town and let them work it out.

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