1963 AP5 Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 The replacement joint I have is the thread in type and I am confident I can change it myself. Looks like a helpful OS member can hook me up with a socket so should be sweet. The home grown solution shown above is pretty cool too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Result! Do the other side while you're at it, do the whole front end even. I bet the lower arm bushes and ball joints are manky too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1963 AP5 Posted June 16, 2017 Author Share Posted June 16, 2017 Funny you should say that, it's exactly what I was thinking. Upon close inspection the lower control arm bushes are not in great shape and the radius rod bushes are shot. Lower ball joints were done a couple of years ago so they might be one thing I keep. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 14 minutes ago, Valiant said: Result! Do the other side while you're at it, do the whole front end even. This, every valiant I have had has needed everything in the front end doing. i prefer original type rubber bushes over nolathane ones after using both types 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Get a good wheel alignment afterward and it'll be so much nicer to drive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Front end rebuild will be the *perfect* opportunity to back those torsion bars off a bit. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1963 AP5 Posted June 16, 2017 Author Share Posted June 16, 2017 2 minutes ago, Valiant said: Front end rebuild will be the *perfect* opportunity to back those torsion bars off a bit. Yes indeed, it actually needs the ride height sorted out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 Wow, this will drive so much better when it's put back together. Have a look at the spring eye and shackle bushes too, I bet they are in a poor state too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1963 AP5 Posted July 1, 2017 Author Share Posted July 1, 2017 I did the shackle bushes at the last WOF however I would really like to change the rear springs. Dad did a lot of heavy towing with this car and he had the rear springs rebuilt with an extra leaf added. As a result the car sat with its arse up in the air like an 80's drag car. I have lowering blocks in the rear but they really only get it back to std ride height. I would love it to be a bit lower but it ain't happening with these springs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64valiant Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 shit this is going to be so comfy to drive. im going to need to borrow you "special tool" to remove one of my torsion bars in the wagon. she sure is bent. might have to catch up and talk valiants again. who have you been purchasing your parts through. nz or aus? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1963 AP5 Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 Have a friend at BNT that helped me out with friendly pricing on all the suspension parts. The special tool for torsion bar removal is certainly available for the OS community. Always keen to catch up to spin Valiant yarns, no doubt we will have an opportunity at some stage soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 On 7/2/2017 at 07:54, 1963 AP5 said: I did the shackle bushes at the last WOF however I would really like to change the rear springs. Dad did a lot of heavy towing with this car and he had the rear springs rebuilt with an extra leaf added. As a result the car sat with its arse up in the air like an 80's drag car. I have lowering blocks in the rear but they really only get it back to std ride height. I would love it to be a bit lower but it ain't happening with these springs. My 2 cents worth would be to take the springs to a spring maker and get them de-arched. The trick is to measure the current amount of arch with the car sitting on the ground and then tell the spring maker how much you want it to come down. I would leave the extra leaf in place, most 60's cars were a bit soft from the factory which is why the extra leaf trick was so common. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 With minor work you can invert the front spring hanger for free low. Then it's best practise to correct the pinion angle by adding tilting wedges between the spring pads and the leaves. The dowel is long enough to keep everything captive. From memory mine added an extra 6mm of slam too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1963 AP5 Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 Yea I am aware that the front hanger can be changed to lower the ride height. I like the idea of having the springs reset for a more acceptable ride height because I know that Valiants can be very soft in the rear without the extra leaf. Not really after the slammed look, just want a nice subtle drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 Plenty of ground clearance is a good thing on a big old car though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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