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Mk2 Engine Siezed - Help!!


mk2panelvan

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2 hours ago, mk2panelvan said:

Yep oil level has gone up. Spark plugs are on pretty tight, haven't managed to get them off yet, been spraying crc around them. Any tips to get these off? Also can't rotate the fan at all. 

It is possible there is water in your oil now.  A guy asked me to find why his car was misfiring. Out of habit i checked the oil, was overflowing.  After the oil drained out the dipstick a lot of green water came out.  A whole piston and rod was lodged in the water jacket.

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The fact that the oil level has gone up would indicate, as rustisize says, that there is something such as coolant down there in it. Oil floats on water, so try drop the drain plug (you should be doing this anyway as the old oil needs to be swapped out after sitting so long). If the coolant has made it into the oil then you either have a leaking gasket (head gasket most likely) or some sort of corrosion hole in the block.

If the car only had water instead of proper coolant, then your engine could well be rooted after sitting for years.

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as was mentioned but kinda glossed over 

 

50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. the acetone things out the atf and lets it get in all the gaps before evaporating off and leaving the oil behind, 

used this method over a few days on my frozen up 18rgeu. freed up real nice and now runs mint with great compression. used a breaker bar to unstick it. the starter motor will burn out if you crank it but the motor cant turn. also with the bar you can feel how the engine feels as you slowly rotate it. 

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On 5/16/2017 at 19:31, Fliboi said:

as was mentioned but kinda glossed over 

 

50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. the acetone things out the atf and lets it get in all the gaps before evaporating off and leaving the oil behind, 

used this method over a few days on my frozen up 18rgeu. freed up real nice and now runs mint with great compression. used a breaker bar to unstick it. the starter motor will burn out if you crank it but the motor cant turn. also with the bar you can feel how the engine feels as you slowly rotate it. 

Got the spark plugs out. How much of the acetone/ATF mix do I put down each hole? I'm going to change the oil after doing that, then use breaker bar on crank. Is the crank down the right hand side by the wheel?

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38 minutes ago, tortron said:

Bet the clutch is stuck too. Jack up the rear so the wheels are off the ground

Won't matter unless it is in gear or you try to put it in gear.

With the clutch pedal out it us fully engaged anyway. 

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5 minutes ago, kyteler said:

Can you clarify exactly what car you have?  If your crank is down by the wheel you miiiiiiiiight not have the Escort MkII Panelvan that I initially assumed and perhaps you've got some FWD thingamebob.

Its a 1981 Mk2 Ford Escort Panelvan. But I got the engine swapped from the original 1300 to a 1600 sport.

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OK, sweet.  As assumed.

Crank is in the centre, the big pulley below the fan, a belt should run from the pulley on the crank to the fan pulley.  The crank pulley should have a nut on it that you can fit a socket on and then wiggle gently.  Keep in mind.  Gently.  Don't wail on the thing just try ease it around a little at a time after you've let penetrating oil/atf soak into the bores a while.

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2 minutes ago, kyteler said:

OK, sweet.  As assumed.

Crank is in the centre, the big pulley below the fan, a belt should run from the pulley on the crank to the fan pulley.  The crank pulley should have a nut on it that you can fit a socket on and then wiggle gently.  Keep in mind.  Gently.  Don't wail on the thing just try ease it around a little at a time after you've let penetrating oil/atf soak into the bores a while.

Ok - thanks heaps for that.

Do you know what kind of oil I should buy? What is the difference between Manual Transmission Oil and Auto Transmission fluid - can I use either? And do you know how much to put down each hole? I've sprayed a bit of CRC down there for the moment...

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Get a 500ml of shitty ATF and just squirt some in, it's not an exact science.  Maybe 50ml?  Let it sit for a week or so with it in and then put some more in and do the same waiting, basically you want to give it time to get past the rust that's potentially sticking the rings to the bores and allow for at least a little lubrication when you try move it.  The biggest thing is to not get impatient and try move it too early.

However you do it or whatever you use, once you've got it moving again you'll want to drain the oil and re-fill with fresh stuff before you fire it up to run it.

 

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yup what kyteler said, although ill add, its my understanding that the acetone is essensial, as this is what things the oil (the oil is what will free it up) enough to get down into the rusty rings and then evaporates off. 

as ky said, dont wail on the crank bolt, youll end up stripping the thread and thats not fun, just give it a good go with a whole lot of patience, it should come free. it took me around a week. 

theirs no exact amount to put down the bores. i just kept it topped up enough that i could see it was above the crown of the piston as in my mind this meant itll be slowly draining though. im not sure why it had to be ATF. MTF may work, but cheep nasty ATF is only like 10 bucks a bottle so i never really thought about it, 

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