pbaines Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Uhh, well. two project, no worries. I bought this off trademe a few months back, original EVERYTHING which was super cool, even have the original registration card from 1977 from Toyota Otago. Was in a family for years and years and sold the guy I got it from who had it for a few years but didn't do much with it. Came with two new front guards (taiwan made) they fit up ok too which is a bonus. Plans. I will stick to them this time round! -Convert to OG black interior, not a fan of the tan personally. -Rebuild current 3K motor that's in it, or fire it up and see how it goes -Do panel and paint myself. Learn along the way. Shell is super straight, few rusty spots as all these KE30's do but that's ok. -Fit super cool accessories like Monsoons, and every piece of chrome available (Which will usually be from a Hi-Deluxe KE30) This picture is my inspiration, I am going to go with a similar deep blue also Anyway, here is the old bomb for now 20170220-2017-02-20 17.14.42 by phillipbaines, on Flickr A few weeks later, I had got some goodies over from Malaysia. Included, Monsoons, rear window quarter shades, door/outer window chrome edging, all the black interior panels, black U Channel moulds, 3-spoke steering wheel. Just need to buy some black carpet and wait for the dash to come over as well as the door cards Now it'll go sit back in its hole until I drag it out to take more tan yuckness out Discussion://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/ 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted May 8, 2017 Author Share Posted May 8, 2017 So I have the week off and the parents went off to Brisbane for the week, what are the chances... I've pinched their shed for the week so I can ho into this KE30 and get it all stripped down and see how far on I can get with it. I went to Mitre10 and bought a wire wheel for the grinder as well as a stripping disc to get me underway. I should probably have just paint stripped it, but I still would have had to use the strip disc to get the remainders off, and this is the original paint so is super thin so will come off in no time. So i bought the car in, chucked it on stands and took the exterior panels off Got the wire brush attachment out and cleaned this up in no time at all Probably the worse section of rust on the entire car. I gave it another once over Did the other side Got the stripper disc out and made quick work of the roof. surprising how bad the back aches doing this for a long period of time. Looks like I will have to have a skim of filler on the roof to fill in the pits from the rust So. This is the rust I have to contend with on the car, for a KE30. This is nothing! Front left underside. Right roof section Rear windscreen i was attacking the outside of the rear left when I noticed something I wasn't expecting to be honest. Some boggy. Stripped it, looks like the only damage is along the ridge which is minuscule (just small pits) however the entire exposed section was bogged. strange. Another update tomorrow when I complete more! Discussion://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pbaines Posted May 10, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 10, 2017 Ah, the culprit to all of the roof woes!! I wondered what the knife marks were around the fuel cap, the roof use to have one of those vinyl covers on top of it. I haven't ever seen one of those come out good after 30 years. they all have a mountain of orange metal under them. I was about to start the front cowl but underneath it was a rusty river so it all has to come off. I drilled these welds out with a drill but have gone and bought a spot drill bit online as I guess it is good to do things properly! I shall resume with the cowl removal on Friday. As you can see, good I removed these. rusty as, and would hate to think how much is under other panels like this. I finished off some more of the body, overall quite happy with the rear end, a couple of dents but all very easy fixes and over it's very straight so that's a bonus. Duscussion://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/ 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 So today I got the spot weld drill bit and attacked the front cowl with it, after a bit of persuading with a coal chisel for the front and the side, and a pry bar to undo any of the spot welds on the inside of the car it all popped off pretty easy! I think it took about 2 hours to get this off. Some of the spot welds were hard to see externally so I had to pry up the edging with the coal chisel to see between the steel and figure where the spot would be. I will have to get this cleaned up also. Possibly even undo all of the spots for this as well. Will get this sand blasted I think As you can see, leaves etc have blocked up the drain holes so water has just sat in there and rusted it all up. I will have to cut this entire patch out, hoping to get a rust cut for this from OCA so will have to see how that goes. In fact I am probably going to be needing many rust cuts, however the problem is that all these KE30's suffer the exact same problems so finding good cuts may prove difficult!! Next I ripped the entire dash out, simple job. Next I will get some dry ice and get all of the sound deadening out and start on taking the paint off the doors. I will use paint stripper for this, just to see how I get on with that as strip discs aren't cheap when you are using one a day!! Hello daylight!! I did some more stripping of this side. I paint strip the rest Next time: Sound deadening removal Engine removal Door stripping Interior stripping Enginebay strippingEuropean babes stripping (my girlfriend said this wasn't allowed ) Discussion://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/ 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 Well, today the engine came out. I decided to check, if in fact I did have the original motor in the car. Yuss. Turns out I do! Fantastic. Very happy to be giving this KE a full makeover and put the original heart back into it. Just so I remember how all of this went. The rest of the bay is pretty self explanatory Also showcasing that, I really should have checked if the gearbox had oil in it. Turns out it did, and my efforts of adding an ice cream container 80% through the drainage process didn't really achieve much. #It'sTheThoughtThatCounts. And behold, the bare nude bay. Considering if I should get this entire shell bead blasted or something, just to get rid of all the rusty holes once and for all I will be going in tomorrow to get some stripper and strip they bay, and also some dry ice so I can get rid of the sound deadening. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted September 5, 2017 Author Share Posted September 5, 2017 Started on my cuts as I have sourced all of the replacement sections that I am needing Found a patch on the car, shame it's rusted through. the whole thing will come out After many hours of using paint stripped which did absolutely next to nothing, i went with a wire wheel on a grinder. Will continue more next weekend after I drop the subframe out etc. Discussion https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/#comment-1844319 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pbaines Posted December 17, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 17, 2017 Been a while, but uber keen to crack into this over christmas break. Have taken 3 weeks off so I hope that I can get a shit load of work done to her! A weekend ago I rustcoverted the engine bay after taking it 99% back to baremetal It did go to a proper black even though it's quite blue in this photo Then since I had left it bare for so long and the car was a mess, i took it outside and blew all the crap out of it and vacuumed the floor. There is 0% rust on the floor at all so skeptical if I should even remove the sound deadening stuff.... but none the less I cracked on. I got the grinder out with the flappy scratchy thing to take back the rust but to be safe at the end I did the old vinegar-water rust killer trick. Mixing Water:Vinegar @ 4:1 ratio I scotch brite'd the whole car where it was bare metal and let it sit for a bit, came back to this beautiful orange Then It looked like this, so I went over it once more till i didn't see an orange speckle anywhere using 100% water and drying off with handee-towels. With two cans of epoxy sealer/primer at the ready and letting the car sit in the 29degree sun for 5 minutes just to give it a bit of warmth I rolled her back in the shed, tacked the car off and then layered the goods on (while do one more two can coat and then use my gun to lay on the primer) 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pbaines Posted December 30, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 30, 2017 So it begins. I bought this here new old welder off tardme for $350 shipped and went and got some gas for it. Turns out it has a 'spot' function too which is cool, makes the welds a lot more consistent, not that it makes my work look any better... been a few years since I have been working with the gun. I began by making all of my cuts that I needed and sprayed in some rust kill sealer on the underside where I could Water had gone into the roof and then down the A pillar so had completely rotted this section away Tacked them in I don't think this would have been nice on a rainy day.... Welded them in! The corner section of the roof was challenging as it was a 3 skin section but I think it's turned out pretty well in the end, overall very happy with the look of it all That's it for the body cuts, may have a few holes I need to fill but other than that, it's looking pretty good. Minimal warping on the new areas, not the biggest worry as I need to bog skim the entire roof anyways.... Will head into town next week and purchase the filler primer and boggy and will make start on the rest. I need to do the doors at some point too, theres minor minor rust holes in those so should all be ok Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/ 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pbaines Posted January 9, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 9, 2018 More good progress. Shell is now 100% rust free! what a mission... Anyway. I got the wire brush wheel out on the boot and expected holes for africa, just surface rust for africa so I was pleased After attacking it i gave it some epoxy Next came the front panel section at the end of the chassis rail. looks the same as the original repair except this time I will actually seam seal the edges on the chassis rail so no water can get in there... no point repairing it if you aren't going to do it properly! Tack Weld: I thought I would just spot weld the holes but sort of didn't realise how thin the steel was. None the less, the holes are no more\ Now the hardest section I have been putting off. It wasn't too hard in the end, just took a bit of time. I also should have used a press for all of this, but. I don't have one! Step One: Plan Step Two: Tack Step Three: Plan some more Step four: Weld *imagine pic* Step Five: Grind off welds Rinse and repeat Step One: Plan Step Two: Plan some more Step Three: Fiddle around with cutting your new piece up to fit whilst realising you should have done the whole front piece from scratch but then not give up because who wants to then realise they've wasted 3 hours Step Four: Weld Step Five: Prettify Then I attacked the rear boot lip and welded on a nice new one. doesn't have to be clean as possible, the boot rubber will go over it There was a massive hole here.. don't think I have a photo. Will get the Dremel out and fix the half circle there. otherwise it's sweet Rear left section that needed doing This probably looks quite ugly but when I epoxy it it will look good. Very happy with how this section came out with 3 curves I had to compensate for when folding up the cut Before: After: Much better! Discussion:https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/ 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 So I started on the doors, oh man. few days work involved there, just doing small patches and also welding up the skins at the bottom of the door edges. I could have made a new lip but really, just as easy to weld the two skins together There is always a post which is the perfect roundness! Like a glooooooove All doors dealt to Once I was happy with the doors etc It was time to add some filler. Quite averagely. but i did get it perfect in the end! HIgh filler primer time I need two new guards and bonnet. But fist, here is why you never rely on Taiwanese guards. A) perfect edging. Close as bro A) good parallel alignment Mr Taiwan put the RHS L piece on the LHS guard. Good work! Discussion:https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56136-pbaines-1977-toyota-corolla-ke30/ 2 2 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 Over Easter I decided to crank into some more work. I picked up some guards and a bonnet from Chch when I was down for Toyota Festival (what a day that was!) I started with welding the new panels back in Now. To rid all the rust that these had, i seam sealed all of the edges everywhere where metal met metal. No chance of this fouling between the skins now. Also painted the top of the dash. Probably premature, but. it's done. Will have to use the Mr. Taiwan guards, there won't be any rust free factory guards in the country. So. Chop out the bits I need The gap for this corner was on the piss so did some rearranging The bonnet which I thought was in fair condition has obviously sat in some long grass at some point and rusted out half of it. not a biggie but would have been nice to have to do nothing to a panel for a change and just paint it... But hey! Brand new NOS chrome front trim. How about that.... Welded on the CORRECT side L bracket, Mr. Taiwan welded on the LH L bracket onto the RH guard which is hilariously dumb. glue'y An error by me... forgot to drill the bonnet hinge holes.. oops. Had to get a pretty worn out dremel disc and cut a square out Then it was time to put the cowl back on I was annoyed at first when drilling spots out and going right through, but acutally turned out to be necessary as I put bolt and nut through to tighten the cowl in place glue'y Welded in the new section on here, was very holey before primer goes on Much better guard gap between the cowl and the guards. Discussion: 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post pbaines Posted May 14, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 14, 2018 It's been a tiresome few days of work blocking and filling to get good shaping of areas that were previously fucked (the doors were so bad when i stripped them, extremely warped and dented) but I have come out the other side very dusty however the results are good. I still have a few areas left to do. I've only done doors, guards, boot and roof so still have most of the body left to go however it's all pretty good! I blocked back the guards and doors to find my bog-spots I took back this section because I got questioned in the discussion and was too scared to remember if I had done it properly or not so took it back to metal and then etched over Boggy begins *few weeks pass* Many hours of blocking and drinking beers I decided to go with AE86 black that is on the panda. I am going to have a Blue KE25, can't have another Blue corolla so black it is. This is I guess, my test panel to see if I know what I am doing. I sort of do, it was a bit cold so got a little bit of dry spray but it buffed out well in the end Super happy how this came out (don't mind the bolt hole, will fix) bit of filler and sanding and can't even tell that there's a patch welded onto the guard to fix the shitty line it used to have I'm in love with the black booty. black is etch, ran out of thinners for the high build lots more to do, but progress is progress and it's motivating! Mingling arena: 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 I have been busy blocking and filling for a few weekends now and finally it's starting to take shape and looks straight as ever. Not here though.... black stuff is etch primer for when i went a bit too hard and went to the metal I also put some filler on the join for the front cowl, because most of it was loooking pretty tatty since i unpicked it and welded it back on, thought i would make it look pretty again. before: After: *a few weeks later* More primer on, then out with the spot putty to smoothen out the spot weld dimples. most of this is hidden by the rear bumper, like the massive dent that can stay the way it is, 100% hidden this stuff here is the absolute tits!!! laid down one coat of high build primer on, will do two more next weekend and a final block just to check i have things in order longchamps... yes or no Chat 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted August 5, 2018 Author Share Posted August 5, 2018 Busy I have been, much sanding.... So I started trying to get my doors into shape. the lower half really is pretty deformed so it's been a mission. plus i'm still working on techniques etc as I quite frankly am a newb. In saying that, they've come out well and can finally start to get wet sanded with 320, then 600 I gave up trying with what I had after giving the above a sand, got a ruler out and applied some boggy Tried not to go too hard (by ending up at bare metal). Once I hit the bare metal i got out a long ruler to see how straight it was, it's come up good! A quick etch and then prime and it was done.. I moved on to the front suspension side of things. crikey. the rust!!! #Nolothane On to the engine bay. Seem sealed ALL of the edges, every seem in the engine bay is done (under the cowl I have seem sealed the inner so didn't need to do the outer side (engine bay side) It became time: ps: I chose a matte black colour for the front of the car. makes the grill look a bit more distinct... Got the struts in, waiting for some rotors before I chuck the hubs back on: Overall quite happy, a couple of dust spots I will sort out nek-week. Shall get onto wet sanding the entire body next weekend. probably won't end up painting anything.. but shall see 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 nu page peas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 nu page peas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 nu page peas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 nu page peas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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