sluggy

Sluggy's 62 Chev C20

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Soo nearly complied,has seat belts brakes all sorted, authorities blah blah.

Ive been collecting a few bits, what has become blindingly clear to me is I have no time. So Im looking for someone to do some of this for me. Once its all complied, doing the LS swap, also all suspension, I will have a 78 front end and an 88 rear axle to chuck into it. Any suggestions around potential people to do some of the work would be great, preferably in aucks but can also road trip it.

I have the loom all reworked so the ecu will sit inside the cab, and a 3 wire hook up to make the magic happen. also have an hptuners set up for post install getting going so not looking for an electrical genius, Im happy to get that side of it happening.

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Been daily driving for a couple of weeks now. Leads, plugs and a holley 600 worked mint on the old girl. Taken the tray off and sent it to autoblast to have all the chassis sealed up against the dreaded rust !! Got a mate machining up some boards for the bed, mounted fuel tank in the back and the front seat will be off to be re upholstered soon. Engine swap is happening end of September so anyone after a 327 give me a yell !

 

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Made some progress. Engine/tranny will fit without changing the front end, so Im not changing it. Cut a notch in the crossmember to get the box in the hole. This truck was a manual so has the high hump trans tunnel, so no cab modifications required. Rear output from the trans is about 4" further back than the original. Did a bit more research, and I will chop out the entire crossmember as it isnt needed, and I think I need to get the trans output down from where it is.

Its all just a mock up, hence the 1" sq thinwall spacer under the perch, but it looks like this will work, unless there is a reason why I shouldnt. The perch is out of a 77, and they are roughly 30mm deeper in the chassis rail, so spacer. The chances of finding a 62 perch is virtually nil, not many of these trucks were ordered with autos, and all the manuals use a horseshoe mount at the front of the engine and another mount at the rear of the bellhousing, no perches. The tranny mount in the photo is the original holden one, should be straight forward to adapt that to the frame with a bit of angle and some gussets.

If anyone has anything to offer in the way of driveline geometry advice that would be cool. Ive been playing with transaxle based shit for toooo long, and Im an old dog to boot, cant train etc. Driveshaft is a two piece, so its set from the centre bearing to the rear axle, and I really shouldve got a measurement on the output of the old box before removal... duh...

firewall.JPG

mount front.JPG

tranny inside.JPG

trans mount.JPG

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Turned left after doing a bit more reading. Made front mounts and a trans mount. Assuming I have all my measurements right, its in the middle, and I have about 1.3 degrees slope on the 1st section of driveshaft which is where it needs to be according to the interweb. Im swapping the rear end to a 12 bolt, so I can set up the pinion angle. Been pretty productive really ! All just tacked together at the moment. Everything is just sitting there in the photos, need to drill a few holes and bolt it all up.

not 100% happy with the trans effort and may rejig it a bit yet.

 

engine mounts.JPG

fabricated trans mount.JPG

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Im Torn... The ratio in the current diff is 4.56:1 which is way to high, I can get a 3.14 for this which would be sweet, but, LSD's are virtually unobtanium for this year, and Id have to do a bit of a work around on parking brakes, cause theres no provision for these, it did have a drive shaft mounted drum..... So I can swap to a C10 diff (photo 2) throw an eaton tru track in there and do 11's. 

But the C10 diff looks sooo whimpy, the C20 is 8 stud, and manly, but single spinner... Thoughts ?

Gratuitous outdoor shot because.

 

manly c20 diff.JPG

whimpy C10 but 11s diff.JPG

Outdoor front and rear off.JPG

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