Popular Post Tumeke Posted February 27, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted February 27, 2017 One British car is stupid. 2 is more stupidist. 1972 Triumph 2.5 PI with 4 speeds and a switch to make some more speeds. Purchased of the tardme for much less than advertised on account of it not working. Was a deceased estate so little information about the not working could be given. Did ascertain that money has been spent, and there is receipts for new metering units and the like. Has been repainted, and clear is blistering in places. There's rust in the front guard, back D pillar window frame and back valance. Spares panels are were supplied with the car but are yet to be collected. So far I've looked for some spark, found it, then lost it, then found it again. I have had it running on some cylinders but not the prescribed 6. So far suspect the coil is a bit average, and probably lots of other things. The main problem, however, is that I think it's been Barried, so nothing can be taken for granted and a full going over needs to happen once I can get the thing to run. All help will be accepted, and I'm sure someone will set up a discussion topic thing for me cause I don't know how. 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Discusting here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 Pulled some stuffs off on the weekend to have a wee look at timing and other such things. Something wasn't quite right when checking the timing of the fuel metering unit (to manual specifications) so pulled the dizzy out and found things to be off from where should be Fudged stuff about for a long period of time and made the dizzy dog line up to 12 o'clock and the metering unit injector # 6 position to be within the satisfactory limit, and the dizzy rotor to be at number 1 lead for timing at TDC compression stroke. Then flushed through injectors again, all worked (some a bit temperamental but ok with a good smack) Then managed to started car. It did kinda start with a bit of ether up it, but not running properly. Rotated the dizzy and got it to stay running. Feels like the timing marks on the pulley are wrong..? Didn't have a timing light to check any further into that. Got it running on 4-5 of a possible 6. Still, progress I think. Tonight I'll try to put a timing light on it, replace a couple of injectors with more reliable spares and see what happens then. You, too can tell me how the TC is much more reliable, like everyone at the European British car show, by clicking here. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 Went back last night. Something is not right.... New theory - anyone had this kinda thing below happen? (Interweb pic - not mine) or has the key just fallen out / shattered? Discuss! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tumeke Posted April 26, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 26, 2017 Spent some time on the weekend with the help of @kempy with good results. Some of the stuff I remember: Changed one-way valves on injector pump, cleaned points, bled injectors, replaced injector, adjusted fuel regulator to 110psi pressure, cleared return line, adjusted overfuel lever, replaced 6 (yes 6) totally dead spark plugs, re-timed and marked ignition, swapped distributors, lost all the hair on my arms and temporary hearing whilst fireball from backfire on intake gave @Geophy and @Threeonthetree a good laugh (possibly due to me holding a can of engine start that was also on fire) and then started car. Next steps - sounds like slight miss on one cylinder but no cooling system plumbed in, so, reinstall radiator, tweak, and do skids / road test / fix all the other stuff I find broke. Finally making progress = win. 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 Lil more progress however she's running oh-so-rich - to the point that I keep fowling plugs / black smokes. Been through a few plugs now trying to diagnose. I reset the max fuel screw to factory spec on the metering unit and fluffed about with trying to balance the throttle bodies. These could do with a bit more work, but I don't think they are out enough to cause this kind of enrichment. Also, overfuel/choke lever is resetting per guidelines. Blew the over-fuel return clear with the compressor, and then checked for vacuum pressure to metering unit - which seemed a bit low - however I might have also fowled a plug in this process. Did a compression check and all around the 160 mark which I would consider healthy. Did a dort sans bonnet up the road So, next steps (and yes - please comment/suggest) are : Double check ignition side - try another coil in case it's weak, replace/clean plugs again, test lead resistance,. Vacuum to Metering Unit: more vacuum diagnosis across all three sets to see if any difference with side of metering unit to check travel. Metering Unit: Double check fuel pressure with another gauge, then if that all turns pull metering unit again, replace all seals / rebuild and/or start playing with calibration adjustments under top cone of metering unit. (I don't want to do this.... see below) Also - all o-rings at both injector end and metering unit end could also play into problems. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Small update - trying other stuffs: As previously mentioned, engine is running rich enough to kill a set of plugs in a few minutes. The metering unit requires vacuum to control fuel supply. Not enough vacuum = rich. There are three throttle bodies, each used for vacuum supply. 1/2 = dizzy advance, 3/4 = metering unit, 5/6 = vacuum reservoir then to brake master via one way valve. For those playing along at home, the screw on the end is the idle control. In/out etc. You can check if your butterfly's are closing correctly by jamming your finger over it. Stall = good. So, checked throttle bodies for leaks, including balancing pipes, other pipes etc. All seemed ok. Possibly small shaft leakage but I'll leave that for now. Threw a vacuum gauge off a T inline and got a bouncing reading under 6hg. Not good. Factory says 10-12hg. Checked other throttle bodies - same deal. I'd previously checked the tappets with @Threeonthetree and we reset to factory 10 thou just the other day. Then it struck me - has someone put a more aggressive cam in this? A bit of research suggested it might have something like a Piper fast road cam. Opened up the top and changed clearances to 16 thou. Reconnected vacuum gauge and what do you know. 12hg. God knows what cam i've got - this is gonna make setting things up more interesting Anyway, now with the correct vacuum the metering unit has the prescribed travel on the control link (see previous post for pic) but, alas, it was still running too rich. Had a think about adjusting the xmas tree of fuel delivery on the metering unit but knew this might be a tad out of my skill set so tried something a little more creative. Knowing there was likely some wear on the follower and control links of the metering unit, I decided to sacrifice some feeler gauges. Warmed the car up, and slowly started increasing size between the follower and roller on the control link until maximum idle was achieved without stalling the car - the theory that this was backing off the fuel cam. Got to 18 thou and found what I assumed was a sweet spot so cut the gauge in half, stuck it in the metering unit and road tested. Findings so far : car not as rich at idle now = win! Car now has no top end pull = lose. Next steps: Back of the gap a bit more between the control roller and follower and try and find a compromise between idle and full noise, check ignition advance, play with fuel load fuel setting screw. PI Lyfe. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tumeke Posted August 30, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 30, 2017 Updater. 1. Fuel pump. The one on the left is in the bin. The one on the right is in the boot. We now have reliable Bosch fuel pressure at 110psi at all throttle openings. New power supply and relay fitted also. I'm just finalising a mounting system and I'll take a pic for the next update. There are kits on the market but they are very spendy so have put something together myself. The original Lucas pump is actually a windscreen wiper motor. Needless to say it wasn't a great option from new. 2. Metering unit. After many many hours fettling, dicking about, trying things, trying other things I decided to rob a bank and buy this: Stuck it in, timed it. Available for sale for a limited time: Patented Tumeke injector bleed test bed © Also available Tumeke Remote Cranking / Gravity Weight System © Also reset and re-sprung throttle bodies, butchered a twin cable choke cable (if anyone has a spare I'd like it please), fixed the over-drive switch with some re-wiring and generally dicked about. Pretty close. Still needs a bit of timing / tuning but mobile and has been moved to home garage rather than storage garage so that I can begin cutting out rust for a WOF. The saga continues. 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tumeke Posted August 31, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 31, 2017 Further to last update I finished (roughly) the fuel pump setup last night: FUEL PUMP Take one piece of aluminum off the side of a broken welder, cut it into shape, cover it in kids dura-seal and drill some mounting holes. Whip out Ali Express's finest (cheapest) Riv-nut gun and slam in some captive nuts unlike everything else British. Re-purposed the old fuel pump bracket to hold the pressure relief valve. More captive nuts and a coat of whatever paint I had lying around. Complete setup installed. Factory pre-filter on the left (with new filter) - Bosch fuel pump - high pressure filter - pressure relief valve - metering unit. Not the tidiest solution but wanted to re-use a fair bit of what I already had to keep the cost down. This will be coming out again to weld up an exhaust mount underneath the floor and i'll blast some paint in there at the same time. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tumeke Posted September 18, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 18, 2017 Spring clean. Before: After 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 Risked the lawand cruised to an Oldschool meat one night last month. Realised how useless the gauges were for reading at night. First step was to remove the dimmer switch - and this helped marginally. Second step was $4.85 on Aliexpess for some LEDs. Whilst I'm not sold on the green (I'll try white next time) at least I can see how slow I'm going / how much water I've lost etc now. I'll also look at updating with a suitable dimmer in the future but keep the factory dimmer knob if possible. Before - with photoshop enhanced brightness so you can see something. Aliexpress Goodness. I then did some maintenance stuff like oil (complete with rounded bung that's since been replaced with a more traditional hexagonal one) Gearbox - sounded a bit chattery so thought I'd top it up (with almost 4 litres of oil.....) Next step - let's try for a WOF. I cut the worst of the noticeable rust out and welded a new panel patch in temporarily, rather than fail on rust. Long term I'd like to replace the whole front guard (you guys hook me up pls) BL quality assured badge still intact. Next: WOF check: PTO for more? Nah - one page mate. A lot of fail and a lot of good fail - i.e. Driveshaft bolts loose etc. I've learnt I can't trust anything on this car to have been done right in the past. Such Barry'd. Done most - recheck tomorrow hopefully. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tumeke Posted October 30, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 30, 2017 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumeke Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 Will it fit? Tune in next time for more. Spoiler: It fits. Need to install it's partner now too. Pics to come. Engine has been making a lot of tapping noises (like tappets need adjusting). Tracked it down to the metering unit. Spoke to Chris Whitor and he suggested winding down the fuel pressure since I had the bosch unit installed. Backed it off to 100 psi. Success. Went cruising with the Trumpet club on the Sunday. Many dorts. Developed a pretty substantial vibration in the drive-line. Suspecting gearbox mount and/or engine mounts. Will raid of project car (if they are the same) in next few days and see if that sorts the issues. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tumeke Posted January 9, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 9, 2019 The trumpet really needed a paint. I'm not a fan of painting, so brought another one instead. @Slacker_Sam. decided to get rid of one of his. and, so a deal was struck. Due to previous swimmings, the diff bearings were chooched, which was not going to make for a easy journey from the top of the south Island to Auckland, so I sent another diff down from my hoard of stuffs. A rough plan was then hatched. Fly to Nelson, pick-up unseen car with @Slacker_Sam., drive to @yoeddynz's and fix diff and anything else that was about to fall off, catch the ferry that night and drive to Auckland on Sunday. Also renew AA Plus. To make things easier, I brought some number plates and @Threeonthetree with me. The flight meant we could catch up with some of the latest automotive offerings from Australia. What a battle. 1-0 to the VN - as expected. Upon landing, we were whisked with turbo-diesel efficiency to Motueka thanks to Sam where we did a little fixing (re-attached a lost gear selector rod, fitted a battery, fluid checks etc) and headed off to Alex's. @yoeddynz was kind enough to allow us the use of his shaded workshop and magical car lifting device to do a formula one style diff change. Whist we were doing the easy work, Alex and Hannah were slaving over the BBQ making some delicious burgers for us. We truly were looked after - thanks again guys. Also, and probably most importantly, we met Kevin. All good things must end, so it was onto the road for the trip to Picton. We allowed 3 hours for a 2.5 hour trip, which was lucky as we picked up quite a fine specimen of hitch-hiker. We then made the 6pm ferry without any drama. Arrived in Wellington at 11pm and found accommodation in 1967 thanks to some of Neal's vintage friends. An early start on Sunday, and North to Sanson for a creame horne for Breakfast. Other thank the scheduled fuel stops we had a pretty uneventful journey north - Arriving in Auckland late afternoon. Now to do some swapping of bits and pieces and sell the old one in the near future. Old vs. New Thanks again to @Slacker_Sam. @Threeonthetree @yoeddynz 25 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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