~Slideways~ Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Underdash-Heater-12V-Heat-w-3-Speed-Switch-for-Car-or-Truck-4-port-/112270123749 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 5 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said: Something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Underdash-Heater-12V-Heat-w-3-Speed-Switch-for-Car-or-Truck-4-port-/112270123749 I've looked at some like that. But that is so basic, I'd be better off making my own. You also don't get any way to turn separate vents off/on. The current setup has: Large central dash vent. left dash vent right dash vent left windscreen vent right windscreen vent left rear vent (can't be very effective, could remove) right rear vent (can't be very effective, could remove) Venting to the foot area(no ducts, just a big hole in the side) I'd want to retain at least 1-5. I thought of making a box up for the original long heat exchanger but run two fans that I can control separately. One fan is ducted to windscreen for super demist. The other fan is ducted to all the other vents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 I'd just recondition the factory heater since it's already out. It's not like you're going to get 40 years of leaves and shit in it as an occasional car that's probably going to be kept undercover, plus they work well when they work. Maybe could do with a gruntier fan, but we had mine in an absolute monsoon a few weeks back in Hamilton and it demisted just fine. Cutting firewalls is IMO just a giant clusterfuck of a thing, perhaps suss out if you actually need to, and if you don't then retain that factory heater. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Rust, so much rust. But it looks possible right? Will feel good to have new metal in there and covered in POR15 all over your hands. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 New bits don't look too bad! https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID008743 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 48 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said: Rust, so much rust. But it looks possible right? Will feel good to have new metal in there and covered in POR15 all over your hands. Most of the patches I need to make are simple shapes. A bunch of straight bends, no compound curves. A lot of it is out of sight so it doesn't have to be exactly the right shape. I'll need to make a sheet metal bender. They are stupid expensive to buy. 46 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said: New bits don't look too bad! https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID008743 But freight for stuff that size must cost a fortune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 51 minutes ago, Adoom said: I'll need to make a sheet metal bender. They are stupid expensive to buy. You can do a lot with a sturdy bench, some bits of angle iron or flat bar, clamps and a hammer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 39 minutes ago, Nominal said: You can do a lot with a sturdy bench, some bits of angle iron or flat bar, clamps and a hammer. My bench is a real sturdy motherfucker, so heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumph...tristan Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 Sweet! looks good! its awesome watching this build thread as im doing similar rust repairs on my one at the moment i look forward to seeing all the new steel welded in! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 5 minutes ago, triumph...tristan said: Sweet! looks good! its awesome watching this build thread as im doing similar rust repairs on my one at the moment i look forward to seeing all the new steel welded in! It's a bit slow going due to current living arrangement. Keep getting grinding dust on the 'kitchen'. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Those are for easy forklift attachment for when you take it to scrap Probably for something like a rotodip to paint it originally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 That POR15 you've painted onto shiny new metal.... just check its stuck properly. I reckon that paint is amazing for rusted surfaces, sticks so well and sets proper hard. But on shiny steel or anything already painted it almost peels off. I think they sell an etch primer to help with this but its expensive paint to new steel. Check out Resene Durapox epoxy primer for new steel. Goes along way and great for topcoats. Awesome work you're doing. Not seen anyone in NZ devote so much effort to rusty trump! (and probably not again until Steve begins his marathon on his mk1 wagon... ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 I have been using the metal ready prep stuff. Which is supposed to promote adhesion on new metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Ahh yeah. Cool. Yeah that is some sort of acid etch eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 12 hours ago, yoeddynz said: Ahh yeah. Cool. Yeah that is some sort of acid etch eh? I don't think it's an acid. But you can see it reacting with the metal and rust. If you leave it wet long enough, it even dissolves the rust from the pits. It leaves a phosphate coating on the metal that is supposed to 'key' it. But you have to wash the excess off with water. Then dry the fuck out of it with the mechanic's hair drier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 It's likely phosphoric acid based. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 There was/is a similar product called Jenolite. Yeah- you have to make sure to neutralise it afterwards. giggles at mechanics hairdryer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 On 6/7/2017 at 10:41, Adoom said: But freight for stuff that size must cost a fortune. Sucks, the Rover club here even tried to get them to do a bulk combined shipment of larger items, but they weren’t interested. Rimmers have good stuff but can be dicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
66gt Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 They sound like Burtons who will only use DHL which costs a fucking fortune and DHL play the customs game to the max so they can charge for that as well. Cunts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 If you can get a dolly or something behind the weld then give it a good beating along the weld line to stretch out the area that shrank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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