JoKer Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 44 minutes ago, locost_bryan said: I think I've got a couple of engine mounts in my Marina part's boxes. Which engine has he got? soz thread jack link below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLEX Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 New mount has been ordered so hopefully that's here early next week and I can see if that fixes the issue. Will report back! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1963 AP5 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Sure hope that sorts it out, new mounts made a huge difference to my car. I think the whole engine was trying to turn around the crank with the spongy old mounts fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLEX Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 New mount has arrived today so will be chucking that in after work and going for a drive. Hopefully that's the end of it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLEX Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 installed the new mount, perfect fit and much tighter but hasn't fixed it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Are you brave enough to run it up to speed on jackstands? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Not sure if it's been mentioned yet but are your UJ's in phase? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ball Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Usually i check - do Rip tail shaft and check unis (even pull a cap or so to check pitting etc. Check tailshaft isn't out of balance or bent etc. Balance all wheels Check and grease all wheel bearings check shocks and balljoints (full suspension safety check and re- grease) While rear axles out the diff check theyre not bent. Check engine mounts Check engine harmonc balancer. Check flywheel/flexplate bolts are tight etc. Probably something im forgetting that i normally just check but can't recall. Id have the car infront of me and e able to test drive so what ever order i do the above would depend on circumstances. If still no luck i then start checking engine balance etc. . *** dunno what ratios your car has. As to what it can achieve. But have you tried doing 70+ in 3rd or even 2nd gear? Is it still there? Is it worse? (Higher rpm may make it worse or clear up but force vibration earlier speed?) All else fails start mounting go- pros under wheel arches etc trans tunnel engine bay etc etc and go for a drive. Much safer than a mate in a boot. A bit more legal and you have a recording to watch not going by a half deaf/blind mates recount. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLEX Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Thanks 8Ball that's an awesome list to work from! I have managed to hit about 75 in 3rd and the vibration was still there although not as bad as it gets much worse at 80/90/100/110. I have also run up to 100, taken it out of gear, put my foot on the clutch and turned the engine off and it shook itself down to 70 odd and then smoothed out so had ruled out the engine / flyhwheel. Shake doesn't change if I put my foot on the brakes lightly. I have tried a known good driveshaft and absolutely no change (Could somebody please explain phase in the universal joints?) Thinking I might take the driveshaft out and get somebody to tow me up to 90k so I can rule out the engine/box/driveshaft completely. I haven't tried changing back to the old springs I pulled out yet as they were pretty saggy so was hoping that wasn't the cause. I was also considering getting another wheel alignment and getting the wheels re balanced (although already tried a different set with no change) I did briefly run it up on stands but not to anywhere near fast enough to make it shake and did notice the back wheels danced round a little bit so switched to another set and no different. Axles have been pulled out a couple of times to change the diff, is it likely using a slide hammer on them could bend the mounting face enough to cause a problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Do these run a swaybar? I had a bad bushing in the swaybar assembly on my old corolla and it had a fairly bad vibration around 100 kph. How are your suspension bushes in general? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 It's gotta be something in your springs m8 No vibration before change, vibration after. Is the distance from the front spring eye to the centre bolt on both sets of springs the same? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Also, sagged springs compared to higher springs may change the angle of the diff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 The frequency of the vibration is a big clue as to what is causing it Ie if it's driveshaft related it will be , for example, 4000 wobbles per minute because at 100kph the engine/ box/driveshaft is rotating at that speed If it's axles/ diff/wheels/tyres then it will be 1000 wobbles per minute assuming a diff ratio of 4.1 ish That sounds retarded but trying to explain on the internet what a vibration feels like is difficult . 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLEX Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 you all raise fine points... Front suspension bushes are all brand new nolathane / super pro done around 18 months ago when I first painted the engine bay. Rear springs have nolathane at one end and standard but good condition bushes at the other. Hanger bushes have never been done, looked OK when I changed the springs but didn't take heaps of notice. Will check all bushes and order replacements for anything that's soft urgently with the end goal to have replaced them all over the next few months anyway, just balancing funds between this, racecar and general living! Springs are definitely going to be the next thing I will swap out, I will also check one isn't in round the wrong way or anything stupid. I put the nolathane bushes to the front but didn't check they went randomly in different ends or anything. Makes sense to whip them out and put the old ones back in for a road test while i'm checking bushes anyway. I didn't even think about working out the speed of the vibrations, as crazy as that sounds it is definitely a good point. Surely there's an app for that sort of thing! Hoping to find some time tomorrow evening to test some more bits out - will keep reporting back! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 One thing you can do is make a sound/video recording from inside the car when it is vibrating, just turn the engine off while you are doing it. About 5-10 seconds should be long enough. Then run that recording through a free program called audacity and do a fourier transform to get the frequencies out. ~4000 rpm is ~65 Hz ~1000 rpm is ~16 Hz So you can look for peaks around that sort of range I've done the same sort of thing before to validate computational models of some bash plates just using a digital camera 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeektoy Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 On 2/14/2017 at 13:44, sleeektoy said: Front/rear shock absorbers OK? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLEX Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Shocks passed wof and cant see any signs of leaks but they have been in the car for quire a few years as they have overspray from 2 different paint colours... definitely on the list of parts to replace anyway, ive ordered bushes for the back half of the car just now so will check shocks for rebound while they are out Planning to do a full spanner check and chuck the old leaf springs back in this evening and go for a drive. If it still vibrates I will record the sound so we can analyse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLEX Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Update: Spanner checked the entire underside of the car, found a couple of bellhousing bolts not as tight as I would usually do them so cranked those up, checked subframe, steering, balljoints, engine mounts (one was slightly loose other was tight) rear suspension was all tight. Thought for sure the slightly loose engine mount was the culprit but went for a drive and no change. Got the car parked back up on stands, took the rear wheels off and watched the brake drums whils the car was in gear, both were a bit wobbly but the passengers side was a lot worse than the drivers. I haven't gone as far as pulling the drum off to watch the hub flange by itself but plan to so that this evening. My question is, how likely is it that I have somehow bent the hub flanges? I did blow the diff doing a burnout around 18 months ago so the axles have been pulled out about 6 times now using a slide hammer. I cant remember how hard it was to get them out the very first time but the last few times when I swapped a spare diff in and back out they came out with a couple of quick bangs. Splines looked OK when I had them out the first time but I haven't had a thorough look as I was more focussed on replacing the diff I'm going to try and pull the axles out over the next couple of evenings to see if they are visually bent, if so does anybody locally have some spare mk2 axles kicking around they are willing to sell? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borgweiser Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Just read through first page and last, seems like you got it found if you ask me. Hub flanges sound out of whack. get the bearings off and studs and drop to Karl at Cemeck engineering. He should be able to true them up or at least give a good opinion on them. Probably has good ones somewhere in the shop knowing him 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLEX Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Planning to remove the axles this evening and see how bad they are. Have been holding off making it un-drivable as my daily has a coolant leak i've been waiting on parts to fix and my race car is in pieces preparing for a new engine so that's slowed me down a bit as my 50cc scooter cant take me everywhere! Should have an update by the end of the week Thank you to all who have offered advice / suggestions / support so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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