tortron Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 Sent the truck home on a tow truck on Friday arvo nothing I did to it, the front left wheel bearing made a pop and then the wheel got real wobbly sparkle sparkle removed the hub spindle had a little marring, fairly light so I just cleaned it up No dramas getting the races out outer bearing race pinged apart and split as it was removed. rollers had no grease in them, might have been part of it Tapped in the new races slight issue the outer race was a loose fit. probably this was a cause. same bearing numbers, but I could rotate it by hand with little effort. The two old bearings didn't look that old, so probably the last time it went, it wallered out the hub face, new one went in and has now spun and cooked it. Fortunately I deal with ancient worn out junk all the time, so I used a pin punch to make the hole smaller and pressed the new race in tight. Not ideal, but itl last till I swap in the 2nd gen spindles anyways made sure to pack the hell out of the bearings, and clean everything up ace 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 better sort that fuel filter before it causes me dramas grubby existing lines and wires Fuel line kinked and not even flared Wire brushed and black zinc - just to draw attention to the area next wof eh hard fuel line also bent up to meet the new filter location, and flared cheap aliexpress filter mount. Modified by cutting one leg off because it would be too wide for the chassis rail. its also very slightly too big for my standard commodore filter. added an extra bit of padding inside the existing rubber. Next time I will get a bigger filter I guess. I kept the cut off leg and used it as a spacer to get the body to clear the brake and fuel return lines. Drilled and rivnut to mount. nearly got away with using an existing hole, but I wanted the filter tucked right up out of the way, and the cab floor allowed this a few inches forward Wires tidied up and everything mounted, kms noted on fuel filter cos I'm a nice guy 250000km baby (not the original speedo from the truck, not even the same one that was in there when I got it, it was close to it tho, although the speedo had bean reading 20%low for 20 years. so yeah) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 26, 2018 Author Share Posted April 26, 2018 And the results are in on the intake temperatures With engine at operating temp and moving at between 30 and 100kph the temperature in the airbox (just after the filter) is consistantly 5 degrees C over ambiant temperature. Temperatures at the end of the air intake pipe just before the throttle body are consistantly 10 degrees higher than that. So at cruise throttle body air is 15 degrees C warmer than ambiant. This rises rapidly when in stopped or very slow moving traffic, but drops back within about a minute of free flowing driving. So no major heat soak issues. (there are plenum insulators / risers for the buick engine, i might try pull some data on the intake air temp one day) So what next I think i will fold up some small snorkle from airbox to inner lamp panel and see if sucking air from next to the radiator is any better. Then i might try a survival blanket or something on the intake pipe. Im not super worried about these temps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 So, because race truck im thinking il put one of these here Doesnt stand out too much And is a perdect fit, going just to the end of the behind numberplate hole It will fit in nice with a bracket off the existing bolts, and il shroud the edges off so air goes through it Possibly the best spot, but I dont really like to mount it to the bumper because bumpers get bumped, i will probably use some race mesh over the front to avoid stone chips. Really though i think i only need it when moving slowly or not at all, so maybe under the tray with a thermo fan is better. Or one day i will make a decent puller fan shroud and move it and the trans cooler to the front of the radiator Or it would fit perfectly centred behind the number plate. A few speed holes and a thermo fan would also do a good job 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted June 16, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 16, 2018 Middle of winter? Perfect time to remove no leak rear screen and install a breezy sliding rear window! cut some wedges and push the old one out Passenger side has been skilfully shaped by artisan bog sculptors otherside, the apprentice I guess But ehhh, il forget I saw that So freaking sweet 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 about time I put some proper paint on the roof. Cant get a replacement windscreen seal that takes the chrome strip, so I very carefully separated this from the sealant holding it in. slow going, and its been damaged before. So if it pulls to bits going back in I will begrudgingly put a plain seal in. Wow, doesn't look like any rust holes in the frame. WIll baremetal the A pillars and paint from the base of the windscreen back to the top of the rear window 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 23, 2018 Author Share Posted June 23, 2018 Bare metaled the rest. The upper corners of the windscreen frame have been replaced before, that's why they were not rusted out. Not done well, same as everything else. Tidied up a few more bits then sealed the lot with durapox And 3 coats of south Auckland racing grey Industrial drum of bog on its way 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 6, 2018 Author Share Posted July 6, 2018 @piazzanoob 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted July 6, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 6, 2018 and some paint made it onto the truck, I seam sealed the gutters prior to this Basecoat, holden platinum gold I think it was, much more beige than the Mitsubishi gold this truck rolled out of the factory in and some fast flow clear The basecoat is left overs from whenever this was last painted, about 5-6 years ago I think, so will see how close it matches whats on there. I blended down to the body line so it should be a fairly smooth transition. A couple of defects I can see, mostly pre existing ones in the areas I didn't repair, doh, but the whole thing needs a respray as theres sanding marks in the basecoat on the bonnet and guards plus a few scratches. Yeah theres some dust in the clear, but should buff out should I ever bother. Don't know how much I want to polish a turd. As long as its all one colour and weather proof 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 Windscreen, Stainless gutter trim, and visor back on All that work and I'm back to where I started almost a year ago Yikes Screen rubber has turned to cheese and all the existing nicks really didn't help, so the inside looks pretty bad where it's torn even more. Probably not leak proof 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 So next up in the pile of parts I have been collecting was a spare fuel tank with sender, and a Holden fuelpump/sender combo. Have been thinking of how to sort out the fuel gauge. But in the end I felt it most cost effective (don't need a custom long range tank I guess) and simple enough to just put the Holden sender in the mitsi tank. Unfortunately the Holden one is larger in diameter, and I don't really need an in tank pump in a non baffles tank. So the plan was to adapt the Holden sender onto the original mitsi unit Took apart the mitsi one Took apart the Holden one Removed the sender bodies from both Soldered the long mitsi float arm onto the Holden pivot Welded the Holden sender body to the mitsi mounting, and soldered the single wire to the original fitting And re assembled And it works. The hardest but will be removing the one currently in the truck 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 15, 2018 Author Share Posted July 15, 2018 Little job today FactoryvPre punched marks on the floor seat rail mount Drilled and rivnut installed Cut some hollow stock and added another pair of rivnuts to mount the extinguisher cradle to Seat right back Seat so far forward I can't put it in gear and still accessable Quite basic, but a step up from having it jammed under the seat. Not race track approved, maybe I'll get a nicer one one day. Currently painted black and drying 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 so another little job knocked out.a little while ago i was monitoring the under bonnet and intake temps and figured i could see a significant improvement by ducting the airbox to outside the hot engine bay.Here is what i am working withstandard holden airbox but missing its snorkel, and an unused headlamp pressing in my inner rad panelSo I went to a wreckers and picked up another complete airbox with snorkel incase I wanted to cut it up. I briefly tried to heat set the snorkel into the shape I wanted, but no luckAround that time I spotted in a clearance parts bin a 3"-4" silicone adaptor. The unused headlamp hole just happens to be 3", and the snorkel hole more or less 4". so at $5 I took a puntyup, with some trimming this will workNow its hard to see in pictures, but the two holes don't line up, theres about 3cm of offset and the headlamp hole is a little higher. Fortunately there is exactly enough room to move the airbox closer to the inner guard, and up without touching the bonnet when closed.I can improve this by slotting out the airbox hole, but for now it looks like it will be fine and the only additional work to do is make some spacers to mount the airbox at the correct height on the old battery tray.this is the joiner un trimmed, in place between the inner and outer headlamp panels. I don't think I will bother with any kind of fancy scoop even though its probably dead air (but it always measured much cooler than under the bonnet) and will just cut it more or less flush 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 Interior improvement timezinced up the floor and roofordered a 2 door kit of dynamat, it was actually the cheapest option. The real cheap stuff I did my Morrie with seems to be NLA, but this was a bit nicer to work withmost of the deadening is achieved by covering 30-50% of the panel, so I didn't bother trying to cover everything. Yes I realise I have done this a bit backward, most of the sound will be coming through the firewall and front floor sections. But I have more work to do there and will do that when I take the dash out and fill up the un used holes etc. I have some vinyl, so I will make a headliner and rear of cab panel maybe this weekend 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted July 29, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 29, 2018 Got some 3mm ply, some fluffy backing, adhesive, and some white perforated vinyl. Dang she's a tight fit, puffed back out nice and smooth after shoving and slapping into centre. #openmondays 14 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tortron Posted September 1, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 1, 2018 Not quite finished, but too cool to wait still needs a couple of poles on each side and then il add some eyelets and shock cord to the tarp and figure out a cab end and a tailgate door flap Truck camping this summer hooooooboooyy 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted September 2, 2018 Author Share Posted September 2, 2018 Added another set of tubes on each corner and set some extra eyelets in my tarp. Coming together nicely. Need some extra bobbins for the front of the tray and some shockcord. Think I will cut and sew the front and back flaps, leaving them attached at the top, and some fixings to keep the sides in place while they are up. I think I can also get away without any further poles if I use some tie down straps in the middle area of the upright of the rack (to stop the sides blowing in in the wing) I always carry them. Although the eyelet set up holds the sides pretty nicely Laying down in the tray, I think it will be a bit tight if I make a platform on top of the wheelwells as I have just an inch or two clearance when sitting up. I'll see how much junk the missus needs to take camping (trailer? Haha) 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 18, 2018 Author Share Posted November 18, 2018 I pulled out the washer unit back when I moved the aircleaner up a little. Unfortunately I need a WOF so have to put it back in. I picked up a washer unit from a 2nd gen at a wreckers (mine was not a mitsi or Holden, and was cut up and siliconed together for some reason) Finding somewhere to put it proved the hardest part. I also don't like the position of my overflow bottle, it kinda overflows onto all the electrics.... So the current solution is to relocate both of them. A little clearance needed to the inner fender for the washer (where the recovery tank was)and then mounted a bracket off the current battery tray for the overflow. Pretty happy with it for now, it's going to go through another few evolutions probably. I quite like those metal recovery tanks that bolt to the side of the radiator. At some point I think I will relocate the battery under the tray, and maybe move the washer unit with it to really clean up the engine bay (to say nothing of getting rid of all that wiring....) 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted January 18, 2019 Author Share Posted January 18, 2019 Front indicators are kinda lacking. No provision in the bumper for normal l200 lamps. Some had them behind the grill. So I did something similar Quite bright. Now to never use them because Auckland 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 Hid these wires too 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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