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Posted

Ok so I have a couple of items that are a bit rusty/ have patina.

Thinking of preserving this finish and celebrating it.

Clear coat in a spray can ok for this?

Posted

I'd be spraying with a gun if you can. Spray can paints are very thin. 2k would be even better. If you want a glassy finish you'll have to layer it on pretty thick.

I've seen it done with a rusted boot lid and it looked pretty cool. Will see if I can find a photo.

Posted

I once put beeswax on a gun blued bike frame, it has lasted surprisingly well.

 

You can thin out the beeswax with white spirit and rub it on, 3-4 coats and it looks like shellac.

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  • 8 years later...
Posted

Ye olde thread dredge.

So my new Galaxie has a pretty wicked patina. Much of the bonnet and front guards have weathered down to near bare steel and since it has moved from Montana to the coast and NZ it has immediately started to corrode.

I would like to clean it up and clearcoat it, has anyone on here done that before?

How do I prep it? - I was thinking a scotch brite would be the way to clean up the bare parts, but would that be too harsh on scratching up the remaining paint?

Would you use a satin or a gloss clear?

image.jpeg.fb430d01f5be729af1e89af38bd3cda9.jpeg

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Posted

This was vaporblasted then clear etch primed. It was going in a "1950's" replica build so not a lot of painted parts.

blasted tank.JPG

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Posted
23 minutes ago, anglia4 said:

I would like to clean it up and clearcoat it, has anyone on here done that before?

How do I prep it? - I was thinking a scotch brite would be the way to clean up the bare parts, but would that be too harsh on scratching up the remaining paint?

Would you use a satin or a gloss clear?

 

Have a search in the projects thread for Matt's Chev Pickup. I can't remember exactly the process he used, but IMO it turned out pretty well (having never seen it in person), and it looks like its lasted a few years too. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, Crispy said:

Have a search in the projects thread for Matt's Chev Pickup. I can't remember exactly the process he used, but IMO it turned out pretty well (having never seen it in person), and it looks like its lasted a few years too. 

Yeah was gonna hunt that out. I have seen his truck in person, and its exactly what I would like to achieve.

Posted
55 minutes ago, 440bbm said:

seen a number of these videos of preserving the patina and always see them using scotchbite. 

The vids I have seen use 0000 (superfine) scotch brite with added soap inside.

 

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Posted

I've just watched a couple of videos where they use either penetrol or a boiled linseed/turps combo to preserve it. Which looks ideal on the barer steel, but unsure how it would be to maintain on the more painted surfaces.

 

 

 

Posted

Sheep grease would be lanolin.

I’ve read about using polish to remove surface rust to prevent damaging the surrounding painted areas.  

Posted

I need to do this to my landy. Was going to go for a satin clear coat in 2k and be done with it. Penetrol looks like it'll need reapplying no? 

Posted

I had a friend do clear over bare steel, but it got rust worms under the clear, which turned into a mission to remove

 

Might not be an issue on a land-rover though haha

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Posted

I've worked on a couple cars that have had the clear over patina treatment. All have suffered from either rust worms or the clear peeling off after a few years. Patina is genuinely harder to preserve than a good paint job. 

 

I've also seen lots of "patina" paint jobs. Never seen one done to a level where it's fools anyone up close. 

Posted
On 17/01/2025 at 21:52, HighLUX said:

I recall @Bistro had some sheep grease based product used to keep the patina on Lozzas KE looking fresh

 

used Ankor Wax on the KE - apparently big in the VW scene overseas. it did what it was supposed to which was to bead the water, however, probably would not trade again due to 

- limited protection time (would have to reapply a far bit)

- never really tacked off (collected dust and handprints)

- not the easiest to apply (would change viscosity depending on ambient temp and would take time to get it out the tin, on to a rag and then onto a car) 

- likely better products/options out there (carboline RIPO seems to be going good so far on the Buick) 

 

 

Have also heard bad things about clear over large amount of surface rust/areas with no paint. 

Posted

I wouldnt clear coat patina, you are literally painting over poorly prepped metal, paint and rust, which only leads to the inevitable, also making it harder to maintain or fix in the future especially if you want to preserve the original paint and look.

I also love patina and its hard to maintain the look while also preventing 'patina' transitioning into something worse.

IMO some sort of waxy/oil type thing would be best, seal out water and oxygen but also removable, the old VVG 'shine juice' (pre this actually becoming a branded product that is more of a 1k clear) was a mix of Linseed and turps +/- any other similar stuff on the shelf like WD40. Old Fiat stories Pappa used Olive Oil and parrafin. Lanolin type grease or oil would be good. Maybe something like penetrol in there too to help it set up a bit. There are a number of other companies making simila stuff (sweetpatina.com patina sauce for eg)

Trade off is whatever you use, it will need regular reapplication simply due to the nature of the substrate (its rust!) , for my 2c slapping more juice on is preferable to sanding back clear coat (doing so somehow without removing the original paint) 

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Posted

I'm a fan of penetrol for preserving patina. If you dilute it with terps it seeps into all the rustworms under the paint and seals them. So easy too, and easy to touch up.

I don't like the look of clear over patina.

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