kyteler Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 If you'd have wire brushed that bracket first, could you not have got 90% of that rust off and then used the molasses to clean the residue, instead of the other way around? Or am I looking at it wrongly in the faceballs? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 I was just thinking that. Works pretty well regardless.wonder if this would work on getting siezed things apart. leave in there a while then pull out and try getting apart. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 Just use phosphoric acid, or for more gentle use citric acid. The molasis has acid in it from bacteria that eat the sugar, it's like the messiest way to do a acid dip ever? It's nice and gentle but so is citric acid and you can make 1000l for about $80, not sure if molasis is that economical? Said it before but no hardened steel should be soaked in acids for long periods so depends what parts are stuck Hemi. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathcollector Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 Yep, there are several ways to skin a cat. This was merely an example of how Molasses works all by itself. This might be considered messy if you are a poof and don't want to dirty your delicate hands but I wouldn't put my hands in a tub of phosphoric acid when by bracket falls off the wire ? No offense intended Spencer. I got my Molasses free from our Office Lady at work to trial its use, the drum was a freebie also. I'm up $80-00 woohoo ! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathcollector Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 The wire wheel on rust only takes off loose or surface rust in my experience and really just polishes heavier rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 Yea all good man just pointing out whats going on here so its all clear, Â letting guys know they can set up citric acid which is the same thing without the goop. Working with acid is safe and easy, phosphoric use in smaller buckets and parts you want clean fast, it will clean shitty bolts and parts in a few hours, its not cost effective to do on large scale. Citric in a 1000l tub you could jump in its very mild, takes 1-2 days to clean parts lasts for months and months just clean the mould off and/or chuck in some bleach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 Oh yeah meant some other mild aid opposed to the molasses. And thinking like manifold bolts that are rusted into heads. Spouse arc erosion is more effective for that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 I saw one guy on a forum cleaned a flathead v8 block in molasses and fucked it, it ate in to the decks and he had to get them planed alot more than he wanted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathcollector Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Yes, that is right too. The Molasses will at least etch a machined surface. I was at Kumeu a few years ago when someone was selling Evaporust. They had a Flattie block half submerged that would come out to show the results. It too you can handle short term minus gloves but ?? I got sucked in to buying a 20 litre. My results have definitely varied from good to shit. Good on light rust but shit on heavier rust. I have a Villiers 2 stroke that I pulled out of 44 gallon drum rusted pretty good in the bore. I have tried most brews ( ATF/acetone, CRC, Diesel, petrol/oil, brake fluid, Evaporust, Molasses, Coke and heating the barrel and cooling with and without fluid) with no luck yet on getting it to budge. For me so far, I like the Molasses, I'm in no hurry as such so it can chomp away as it does. Might try the citric on my Villiers though ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 So does either of them remove paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathcollector Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 The Molasses has taken some paint off these Model A parts but not all of it. I would probably say no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 I saw one guy on a forum cleaned a flathead v8 block in molasses and fucked it, it ate in to the decks and he had to get them planed alot more than he wanted Cast iron doesn't like molasses bathes, steel on the other hand will withstand it much better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Cast will turn to dust in acid, hardened steel it can crack it from the hydrogen embrittlement? I don't know the term/science. Anyway a spring or a hard bolt will go black and if you leave them long enough go brittle & weird. Panel steel just pickles and pits a little generally when left too long. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 I think any acid likes to eat the carbon in steel and iron, and it is hard on steel pressings to, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 I wonder it this would be legit to put in the bores of a seized V8I have? obviously avoiding the decks after ready above posts. Pistons will be getting thrown in the skip anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Aluminum. not a bad idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Ok so i decided to try white vinegar on some rusty floors. I soaked a towel in the stuff and left it to sit overnight. Extremely impressive.. it seems to have even softened the primer that was on there and given me bright bare silver steel. So I am now buying some glycerin and Xanthan gum as apparently that should thicken the vinegar and make it sticky enough to sit on a surface by itself overnight (i found a story on making vinegar based toilet cleaner) Pics of results to follow . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Wire vinegar is good for cleaning carburettor body's, it's gets rid of the white corrosion and makes them look like new, I tried using coke to remove rust witch was unsuccessful but it ate the paint off 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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