Benno Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 I'm currently in the process of swapping my diff head (4.1 ratio) with a new one (3.5 ratio) in my escort. When I had a read of the Haynes manual, they talk about the Escort 1600 having a CV joint in the 2 piece driveshaft and the 1300 having the UJs. Is there any point in trying to track down an escort 1600 driveshaft? My current one is in decent condition, no issues or vibrations but the centre bearing probably needs some attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 I just brought a brand new single piece out of the UK for mine, got mine from Burton but they're pretty cheap on ebay now. Could prob get postage even cheaper if you use youshop as well. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Escort-Mk1-MK2-Rs2000-Mexico-Single-Piece-Prop-English-/152101261382 Just a thought if you're gonna fork out for a new hanger bearing etc. anyways. Cheers Matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 What was making all the noise last weekend Ben? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 Loose flywheel, the bolts had all loosened off until they were pretty much finger tight. The bolt holes have a tiny bit of damage to them, but should hopefully be sweet when bolted back up properly. Didn't look like there was any loctite used last time. Will get it skimmed, new clutch, new bolts and get it all back together with some loctite on this time. Doing the diff swap while I've got the driveshaft off. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Loose flywheel, the bolts had all loosened off until they were pretty much finger tight. The bolt holes have a tiny bit of damage to them, but should hopefully be sweet when bolted back up properly. Didn't look like there was any loctite used last time. Will get it skimmed, new clutch, new bolts and get it all back together with some loctite on this time. Doing the diff swap while I've got the driveshaft off. Fuck yeah, nailed that side of the road diagnosis. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 If you have a one piece drive shaft stick with it. The two piece ones with the CV in the middle are renowned for giving problems. I think the idea was to allow for a higher pinion angle without aggravating UJ bearing wear, all it did was make the shaft heaver, more complex, more prone to vibration and failing. Not to mention that if your car had a one piece there's probably no provision in the drive shaft tunnel for the middle mount. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted September 11, 2016 Author Share Posted September 11, 2016 It's currently got a 2 piece driveshaft with UJs. I will look into getting a single piece shaft for it, seems like the best alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jydnz Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Hi Ben, I'm running a 1600, type 9 5 speed using a standard automatic two piece driveshaft with u joints on the centre joint to a 3.54 diff. No problems. Should be fine with your original one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allthegoodnamesaretaken Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Bit late to this discussion, but for what it's worth, I've got a 1.6, came with the 2-piece shaft with the centre CV joint, still working fine except the mounting rubber on the centre bearing has worn (Burtonpower sell them) and I can't separate the two shafts to replace it. So quite a few years back I fitted a 1.3 2-piece shaft with the centre UJ and that works fine too (except right now a UJ on it needs replacing). Anyone know how to replace a 'staked' UJ? (as opposed to a circlip-secured one). Burtonpower also sell UJ's listed as suitable to replace 'staked' UJ's but I don't know how this is done, specifically how you ensure the UJ shells are properly centred in their bores. So anyway, either pattern of shaft works OK, at least for road use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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