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Gav's 200sx RPS13 1JZGTE of race car.


~Slideways~

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Just now, mjrstar said:

Have you got the log file and the time stamp marked where it started running like a bag of dicks? 

Yep, I sent two logs to Link support, one log you can see where I shut the ign off and on to fix it and there doesn't appear to be anything out of the ordinary before that. Well not that I can see and the Link support guy too.

But in saying that, how would a faulty coil show in the log? (if it is a coil).

 

 

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Re: the MAP fault/going way out of calibration, all I have done is remount it so the inlet is facing downwards, just in case that was a moisture problem. I didn't see any moisture in the line or sensor when I took it off though.

It has been offered to send the MAP sensor down to Link to test, but I have not had it go out of calibration since. So unless I can catch it in a log I don't think its going to get me anywhere.

The MAP appears to be reading okay during the misfire behaviour. 

It's really bugging me because when it is happening it isn't effected by load at all, I've only ever had it happen at part throttle cruising or no throttle at all. It has never happened under hard acceleration, but that could just be luck (EDIT: to clarify if it is already misfiring, more or less throttle does not stop the misfire).

 

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41 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

Are you logging trigger error count? 

The g4 atom link in my mx5 is losing its shit occasionally and leading up to it there is a rise in trigger errors. 

The logging was at default settings so maybe it doesn't, I'll check tonight when I can open the file.

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Yeah I see the llg file is encrypted to the ecu, managed to get that sorted. 

 

Have sent you an email with a few more questions.. I'm definitely interested in the voltage fluctuations (why an I seeing a max voltage of 18.03v) and the effect this might have on the dwell table and injector dead times.. 

 

 

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4 hours ago, mjrstar said:

Yeah I see the llg file is encrypted to the ecu, managed to get that sorted. 

 

Have sent you an email with a few more questions.. I'm definitely interested in the voltage fluctuations (why an I seeing a max voltage of 18.03v) and the effect this might have on the dwell table and injector dead times.. 

 

 

Didn't realise it would be encrypted, I guess the Link support guy just knows how to get around it.

Re: the voltage. This is a worry, I put in a brand new alternator not that long ago (well 'remanufactured in Japan' from NST and it wasn't cheap). But in saying that, I have mainly been looking at the big 30min log file and in that file its pretty consistent around 14.8 getting up to 15.2v for some reason. At the time of the log where I know it was misfiring/running rough I can see its at 14.8ish for the whole time.

Either way 15.2v is high... and is actually out of range for the inj and coil settings (think the tables only go to 15v) I wonder if maybe there is a problem with the sense wire to the alternator? Or the regulator is not doing its job.

I also saw the 18V max reading in the ecu statistics but scrolling through the logs I can't see it doing that in either of them. Unless is for a split second.

Strangely in the shorter 8min log that was before the engine got up to temp and I can see the voltage is worse here. It's at 15.5v or so a lot of the time.

 

You might be onto something!

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Do you have a knock sensor? 

@Lith made an interesting observation a while back, that a misfire can sometimes show up on the Knock sensor logs. 
Instead of your knock sensor value going higher than the normal noise threshold when you get knock, it can go low if you have a misfire.
It might help isolate to a particular cylinder perhaps, if you're looking to check that.

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Next question, is it actually making 2000 thousand of the rpm's at zero throttle position? 

 

Because the idle control is trying to target 900 rpm and it shows a 1000rpm idle target error. 

So either there is lots of extra air getting into the engine, tps isn't actually zero, or the engine isn't really doing 2000rpm.

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2 hours ago, mjrstar said:

Next question, is it actually making 2000 thousand of the rpm's at zero throttle position? 

 

Because the idle control is trying to target 900 rpm and it shows a 1000rpm idle target error. 

So either there is lots of extra air getting into the engine, tps isn't actually zero, or the engine isn't really doing 2000rpm.

No definitely not, you might be looking at the part of the log where I turned the ign off then on for a few seconds while still moving at the 20min mark. I was in road works with nowhere to pull over. Just before that point I was engine braking for a couple of minutes around 30-40kph down hill in slow traffic when I noticed it sounded wrong. So I decided to test if ign off and on would fix it, which it did. This is strange because the ECU would have still been on since it has ECU hold power enabled. 

It idles really nicely hot and cold, the stepper motor works as it should. Target is 900rpm and when at operating temp I'm sure last I checked it was within 50rpm.

 

Another theory about the voltage I have is that apparently a cold alternator can charge higher until it has warmed up  (the internet tells me so). Which can explains why the voltage was high in the 8min log (start of drive to work) then in the next 30min log it was all up to temp and the voltage is mostly 14.8-14.9v.

I will check the sense wire and see what I can find.

Previously I took it for a drive after moving the MAP sensor to point the inlet downwards and had zero issues on a 25min drive at night. Including full throttle fun corner stuff as well as 100khp motorway driving. That was at night so would have had the headlights on and maybe the heater. This could support the voltage being the problem since it might have been enough draw to keep it below 15v?

 

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12 hours ago, Roman said:

Do you have a knock sensor? 

@Lith made an interesting observation a while back, that a misfire can sometimes show up on the Knock sensor logs. 
Instead of your knock sensor value going higher than the normal noise threshold when you get knock, it can go low if you have a misfire.
It might help isolate to a particular cylinder perhaps, if you're looking to check that.

Yep, I wired in the two factory knock sensors. I don't think they are currently doing anything though.

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Just now, Roman said:

Out of interest do you have a log file I could have a look at? 

Yeah definitely, send me a PM with your email. Unsure what mjrstar did to get around the encryption but I can look at it again after work. 

I think I will need to create another log as the default settings may not have captured everything.

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41 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

I can email @Roman the converted Csv files if required.. 

I have emailed the logs through, so depends if they can be opened.

1 hour ago, Roman said:

I find its good to log directly to the laptop, unless you need more than 40hz logging. Because that way it includes every possible variable.


 

I have been logging to a laptop so I can pull over and look as soon as I notice the problem, I'll check tonight to see what the default settings are and if I can log more parameters.

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