Stu Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Yeah it will be the relay wiring, its commonly done, have seen this quite a few times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Thanks guys, made some progress but still trying to make sense of it. The Link diagram for ECU Hold Power has constant power going to both sides of the main relay. If I do this it back feeds. I've tried having switched power to the main relay (being the hold power relay) coil but it looks like it just shuts down straight away with the ign switch, without hold power functioning. I've tried having another relay altogether which has the ECU hold power output controlling its coil (just like above) but now it is controlling a completely separate ground wire which is then the ground for the main relay coil (basically what the ecu was grounding before but putting in an extra relay). Thought maybe this would help isolate any back feed through the ground wire. But still shuts down straight away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 show us your diagram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 If memory serves I had a similar issue, ended up just putting a diode in one of the fed lines so it couldn't back feed and that fixed it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 OK think I've got it sorted now. Kept the main relay having constant power on both sides, changed one relay to switched power and added a diode to the radiator fan relay. Now the Digital Input registers the key is off (backfeed previously made it think it was still on). ECU Hold Power is confirmed to be working with the timer setting. Rad fans work as they should. No backfeed through the MAC solenoid. Fuel pump primes with ECU on. Fuel pump starts with cranking. Only tested for a second since the tank is dry. I only have some old fuel, I guess it'd be OK. Or I could go on an essential fuel run? I've set up the basic engine configuration info and triggers etc. Now I need to test the coil on plug set up and the new injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 Extended intake pipe and new bigger K&N 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 Also bought a label maker: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Got this started using a start up map from the Link support forum, it'll probably be over fueling heaps with the 1000cc injectors. But it started first try, fucking stoked.... Pretty happy with that since I'm a total wiring novice and I changed so much other stuff and it just works. Fck yeah etc. Still have to figure out a problem with the idle speed stepper motor seemingly continuously resetting itself on shut down. But it starts! Tune will be based on what the current clutch can handle, will go for more power later... I want to finish at least 2 other project cars before going further with this one. At a guess it should handle maybe 260-280 rwkw and lots of good torque. This setup should be able to do 300kw with the standard cams but I doubt the clutch will do that. Even with limiting to that sort of power it'll be awesome fun. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Also, holy shit the turbo intake noise is obnoxious with the 4" intake and no restriction. What do the Aussies call it? Dose? It does that lots haha. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 you love that sound, dont lie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiRge Posted April 26, 2020 Share Posted April 26, 2020 On 21/04/2020 at 20:09, BlownCorona said: you love that sound, dont lie Them supermarket trips are dangerous, too many unintentional neck injuries 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted May 22, 2020 Author Share Posted May 22, 2020 Had a few issues come up when I went back to the dyno, which took a bit of diagnosing (thanks to Custom Works Automotive). Mainly the fuel pressure not being controlled by the standard FPR. Wasn't worth trying to tune around it, but it was now driveable. Apparently driveable isn't a word. Ordered and fitted a Turbosmart FPR800 as well as refitting a standard fuel damper to see if that helped. Took the DW400 pump out to see if there was anything wrong, the hose clamps could be tighten a bit but I wouldn't say they were loose enough to be an issue. Back to the dyno yesterday and the FPR is good but the boost to going to 16 psi when it should be around 10psi wastegate pressure. Found that the silicon hose had split due to heat, I was worried about this before so had searched everywhere (a year ago) for a longer fitting but no-one had the right size. I had wrapped it in fibreglass heat shield but I guess it didn't survive (had same pipes on with original ECU for maybe 500km). Put on a new hose and now its controlling boost. Left it on 10psi until I could find a solution to stop that hose failing again. Tried ENZED and they couldn't get anything, I asked about brazing it and they estimated $100. So I noped out of there. Thankfully Grotty's knows a guy and got it sorted. So once I go get that and plumb the solenoid back in I can go back and put more boost in it. At wastegate pressure its making 200kw peaking at 6300rpm I think it was, not bad for 10psi. It's got great torque and very responsive, the sound it makes is intoxicating. Can't wait to put some more boost into it. The transmission tunnel gets bloody hot. It progressively gets to the point that the floor (no carpet) is almost too hot to touch. And even the shifter gets hot. I have heat wrapped the exhaust in that area and put in some shielding but it doesn't seem to have made a difference. I reckon its engine bay heat and lack of airflow. So I need to try get some air flow to the transmission tunnel, maybe from the bumper back towards the tunnel or just some ducts scooping air upwards? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted May 27, 2020 Author Share Posted May 27, 2020 On the Dyno and on the driveway because photos: 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted June 20, 2020 Author Share Posted June 20, 2020 Been having this weird intermittent problem which feels like it isn’t running on all cylinders. But it happens at strange times like just cruising at 50kph or even on the motorway. I can push the clutch in and it even runs rough under no load. Then it just goes away and doesn’t do it again for ages (like 30min drive home). It goes really well otherwise, no issues under hard accleration. All temps are fine and so is oil pressure. I have checked all of the coil plugs and mounts, the injector plugs and taken spark plugs out (they are pretty much new). It starts no problem even when freezing cold or hot. Just now I took it for a test drive and it seemed fine then less than 10min into it at a 50kph round about the revs dropped and it felt like it didn’t want to idle. Gave it some more revs to be able to pull over, It struggled then it came back again Like nothing was wrong. Turned it off and on again because I work in IT. Then it idles fine. Turned on logging since I had the laptop with me and it all seemed fine. Then after 20seconds of idling the engine just died and it refused to start. checked logS and the map signal had shot up to 28psi from 4ish (just idling). Checked fuel map and with engine off the map signal is well into boost. Obviously wrong. tried to recalibrate it in PCLink and it failed saying it is out of range. i have seen it do this once before and fixed it by unplugging the map sensor. Back in pclink and it is sitting at atmospheric pressure again. Drove it home and it ran totally fine. All I can think of Is a voltage issue or a faulty map sensor? a bad sensor would explain all of the problems. But the fact it’s totally fine and runs really well most of the time is weird. Has anyone seen a similar problem? Its a Link 3 bar map sensor and Link g4+ storm black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 I would try and borrow a sensor to try first, Then 2nd, try new wires from the ecu to the sensor. It could be a bad connection somewhere leaking a bit of voltage into the map signal wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 they dont like moisture/ water much, so if for any reason has been subjected to it sensor could be stuffed. otherwise as above make sure you dont have any janky wiring that could short from 5v+ wire to the map signal wire. bad ground may do it also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 On 20/06/2020 at 21:13, fletch said: I would try and borrow a sensor to try first, Then 2nd, try new wires from the ecu to the sensor. It could be a bad connection somewhere leaking a bit of voltage into the map signal wire. On 21/06/2020 at 10:42, kpr said: they dont like moisture/ water much, so if for any reason has been subjected to it sensor could be stuffed. otherwise as above make sure you dont have any janky wiring that could short from 5v+ wire to the map signal wire. bad ground may do it also I've tried finding one locally but haven't found one to test yet. I've just posted up on the Link forums for any advice. I can't think of how the wiring could be bad, but maybe? EDIT: it is mounted high up on the firewall, I had assumed it would be water proof, the plug has water seals etc. I doubt it could have gotten wet, but its possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vk327 Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 is the map sensor in a position where moisture can condense in the vac line and sit in the sensor? best practice to mount with the line facing down so water wont sit in the sensor , it sounds like you got a faulty sensor tho, being link you can run damn near any map sensor with the known calibration, MSEL stock a good 3 bar bosch one iv used a few of https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/SENBOSMAP3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 17 hours ago, vk327 said: is the map sensor in a position where moisture can condense in the vac line and sit in the sensor? best practice to mount with the line facing down so water wont sit in the sensor , it sounds like you got a faulty sensor tho, being link you can run damn near any map sensor with the known calibration, MSEL stock a good 3 bar bosch one iv used a few of https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/SENBOSMAP3 Its mounted like this up on the firewall, so I guess its possible moisture could be in it and not able to drain out? Inside the hose looks totally dry though. I also did a quick test of the voltages on each wire unplugged and ign on. Ground and 5v feed wire = 4.95v Ground and signal wire = 0.05v Signal and 5v = Pretty sure this was 4.95v but it was pretty late last night so I'll double check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 Still chasing this intermittent misfire thing. I have not had the weird MAP sensor reading wrong problem again though. I drove it to work a week or so ago and during the 30min drive it did it twice. Once within 5min of home just turning at a round about which lasted about 40 seconds until I pulled over. Then again 20min later engine breaking at 40kph in the road works going down Haywards Hill. I turned the ign of and on again and it was fine again. I have checked all pins on the coils and the MAP sensor. All are fine and locked in place, there was a suggestion that the pins could be loose. On that 30min drive to work I had logging running. I sent that to Link support and they said they couldn't see anything, they then suggested to check the crimp in the sensor ground wire which is near the ecu (comes like that from Link). I have visually checked this and it doesn't look loose but I have not removed the heat shrink yet. Then next thing I will try is check all of the ECU grounds to the engine block. I drove it home and it was perfectly fine for 28min. Then 2min from home it sounded like it wanted to be a WRX, but it went away within a few seconds. I wonder if I maybe need to buy a spare R35 Coil and try swap one at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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