Gav's 200sx RPS13 1JZGTE of race car.

[~Slideways~]

21 minutes ago, Roman said:

RPF1 are just so timeless. 

Light, strong, look cool. Cant go wrong

Crazy light! I agree, they do suit pretty much anything. Maybe some 10" ones for my N360? haha

[CUL8R]

When you put the struts in, did you pull the strut closer to the hub, or push it further away - ie if you were to undo the two bolts from the hub through the strut, pull/lever the hub out and re-tighten, you can usually gain 1/2 to 1 deg of camber, which will help immensely at the wheel for clearance. 

Conversely, when there's load on it, and you undo the bolts then you can get camber gain from doing them up under load.

[~Slideways~]

11 hours ago, CUL8R said:

When you put the struts in, did you pull the strut closer to the hub, or push it further away - ie if you were to undo the two bolts from the hub through the strut, pull/lever the hub out and re-tighten, you can usually gain 1/2 to 1 deg of camber, which will help immensely at the wheel for clearance. 

Conversely, when there's load on it, and you undo the bolts then you can get camber gain from doing them up under load.

Good idea, I'll get the tyres fitted soon then see where they sit.

[BlownCorona]

On 27/03/2019 at 21:48, CUL8R said:

, pull/lever the hub out and re-tighten, you can usually gain 1/2 to 1 deg of camber, which will help immensely at the wheel for clearance. 

would the vehicle weight, especially under heavy braking not force the to their max neg camber? or is the clamping friction enough?

[~Slideways~]

5 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

would the vehicle weight, especially under heavy braking not force the to their max neg camber? or is the clamping friction enough?

Bolts should hold it fine, I had some coilovers on a previous car that were designed with elongated holes for camber adjustment on the knuckle end. Didn't have any problems with those.

 

[CUL8R]

Correct, HSV's for instance from about '05 onwards run a 8mm bolt that you can wind in or out to increase or decrease camber as required.

So for people without camber plates or adjustable bottom arms its a easy way to get some camber. I've also seen people elongate the upper hole on the strut further to get just that little bit more camber..

[~Slideways~]

Wheels fitted with some Westlake semi slicks I picked up a while ago.

\

 

Fitted on the front, bit of adjustment to the camber and they have about 10mm clearance from the coilover. It'll never touch, so hopefully it'll be fine for cert.

The brakes look small now. I could easily fit some bigger discs from an R33 maybe. These are 280mm discs from a turbo S14/S15 and I think the same as R32.

 

It looks good and they are stupid light. The rear track is narrower due to the +18 offset versus -20. But I still have the other wheels.

 

I've also wired in the reverse light switch on the R154 so I have reverse lights. Another small thing ticketed off.

Wired in the check engine light.

Made a turbo/manifold brace which bolts to the engine block, should prevent cracking from the big turbo's weight. In theory.

 

Next will be to fit some windscreen sprayers to the CF bonnet. Either drill some holes or maybe see if I can hide them away some how.

Running out of things to do for cert, well pre-emptive things. I assume I'll get a list after the first check.

 

 

[shrike]

Can run the BA falcon disc (325x32mm)

Height is 45.3mm so might need to space it up to the 54mm height of the stock skyline rotor 

Align the center bore as its 71.5mm vs the Nissan 68mm

Brake caliper brackets to suit

Think its DBA 42104  from memory

Or you can go for 370z front rotors

DBA 2314

354x32mm

49.5mm height so may need a spacer depending on how it sits

Brake caliper brackets to suit

 

Both of these options suit the 4pots you have and can be used with wilwood or Brembo etc upgrades later

[mjrstar]

340mm minimum front disc diameter if the car is going to see repeated track time I reckon. 

To put it in perspective my Honda civic is less than 1000kgs and under 200hp and it has 282mm front rotors. 

[~Slideways~]

It's a slippery slope!

The easiest option would be some R33 gtr 324mm discs and some caliper brackets using these 4 pots and some good pads but then I'd possibly have wheel clearance issues etc.

Its about $650 for the brackets and non genuine discs.

I plan to use this for closed road events and to begin with just having some fun at Manfeild. My last car cooked the brakes after 5 laps, it improved with ds3000 (from memory) pads and 600deg fluid. 

What I'm struggling with right now is the slippery slope of just doing a bit more. It's been 5 years now. I just want to drive it.

EDIT: techincally a bigger disc would need a recert if I do it later. But so would a retune and more boost...

[fletch]

On SAU its a common mod to do the 324mm rotors with the 280mm calipers you have and some adapters.

I think it just fits under the wheels you have.

+1 for just getting it out and driving tho!

[~Slideways~]

19 hours ago, fletch said:

On SAU its a common mod to do the 324mm rotors with the 280mm calipers you have and some adapters.

I think it just fits under the wheels you have.

+1 for just getting it out and driving tho!

Thinking about it today, it seems silly to not do it since it’s such an easy conversion using the same calipers.

I wonder if the brake lines are long enough...

[shrike]

You need to make sure you get brackets to suit the calipers as r32 are different to R32 GTR, R33 and R34

R32GTR and R33 are the same 

R34 sit higher as they are for a larger rotor and then brembos are different again

https://au.gktech.com/products/brakes/brake-adapters but thankfully they are avilable

You can find caliper identification info online fairly easy

[~Slideways~]

19 hours ago, shrike said:

You need to make sure you get brackets to suit the calipers as r32 are different to R32 GTR, R33 and R34

R32GTR and R33 are the same 

R34 sit higher as they are for a larger rotor and then brembos are different again

https://au.gktech.com/products/brakes/brake-adapters but thankfully they are avilable

You can find caliper identification info online fairly easy

Yep those GKTech ones are easily available, on Trademe as well. That's the option I would go with I think, since its a known brand so should be good with cert etc.

My calipers are the normal iron Sumitomo's and will be the normal 'leg' mounting length since its on the 280mm which is on S14/15, r32 gts-t and Z32's. 

Nissan have such a good parts bin.

 

[~Slideways~]

I made these weird shape brackets for a manifold brace, which bolts to the side of the turbo's exhaust housing and then goes down and to the engine block. 

Decided to add one since that's what Toyota did with the factory setup.

Just enough room and it's nice and solid.

Painted it in high heat paint then went to fit it last night and the last bolt snaps in the exhaust housing.

Fcking joy.

Love a snapped bolt, especially the kind you can't get to with a drill.

Fck me.

 

Anyway here is the bottom half installed:

 

Tried getting the bolt out, but I would need to remove the turbo. So what I might do now is add a tab to brace to utilize another bolt hole in the exhaust housing and if/when I need to take the turbo off I'll be able to remove the cnutfckingbolt.

 

I've decided I should do the Nissan-parts-bin brake upgrade before certifying it. It just makes sense.

I did some guestimate measurements and it should fit within the RPF1's the only difficult bit is the caliper may touch this lip in the wheel design:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[~Slideways~]

Well they are definitely big óle dinner plates

[~Slideways~]

Discs 280mm versus 324mm

 

Before:

 

After:

 

 

I'll put the type x side skirts on at some stage:

 

Also added a high stop light because the original boot one is gone due to the wing:

 

It cost $12 and is super intelligent high spec!

[~Slideways~]

oh these are the gktech adaptors I used, dark photo but they are there:
 

[~Slideways~]

Test drove it to check the brakes, holy crap what a difference. I knew bigger rotors would mean more leverage but again, holy crap.

Easy upgrade for lots more braking power. 

The original pads had a 2mm over hang (DB1170) so I changed to DB1346's which are for some kind of 4wd, possibly a Landcruiser. Exactly the same mounting holes but the pad material is a little lower.

Also, after that test drive I realised that all the testing I did for the gauges meant the low fuel light wasn't lying.

Filled up a couple of fuel containers with BP 98 and saw this sign and thought it was funny. Someone MUST have noticed when it was being made and just thought fck it, right?

I've now fixed the turbo brace by welding on a tab to reach another bolt hole since the other bastard bolt snapped. This time I made sure to use new 8.8 bolts.

 

Another cert thing is the bonnet never had windscreen sprayers.

See:

 

Drilled, filed and stole from the other 200sx to now have sprayers.

The hole isn't as ugly as the photo suggests:

 

Next I need to make some heat shields between the fuel line and downpipe. I am tempted to run braided line on the passenger side to get rid of the pointless hard lines along the firewall and get it away from the exhaust side. But S13's are weird and have a section of chassis rail missing on the passenger side so the fuel line wouldn't be protected for about 30cm, the only other option is the go through the trans tunnel but I'm not sure the certifier would like that.

EDIT: man it feels good to drive! Sounds fcking awesome, much more aggressive idle than my old Chaser had (same engine). I think the exhaust manifold I made might help there, versus the stock log manifold design. The gearshift CUBE thingy feels so nice, the steering feels great the brakes are awesome. 

Big smile on my face putting it back in the garage, the way it should be.

 

Will be interesting to see what happens with the cert which I will hopefully be able to do soon.

[~Slideways~]

Alrighty, cert check has been done and I've got a list. Nothing too bad, maybe some will be a little annoying to sort out.

- Front bump stops missing - need to find BC ones I guess.

- Spring washers on the brake caliper brackets (only came with normal washers) - easy

- Caster arms don't have a brand and have play in rose joint - will get some hardrace ones after confirming with cert man.

- Spring washers on engine mount brackets (again, only supplied with normal washers) - easy enough bit hard to get to some of them though.

- Engine mounts need spring washers (not supplied with them) - seems to be a theme here but I may need longer bolts to do this.

- Gearbox mount nylocks don't have enough thread showing on the studs. - Was worried about this one, will have to see if I can fit longer studs or maybe bolts if it works.

- More spring washers on drive shaft loop bolts (think he means a couple that arent the floor mount part). - easy.

- Seat bolts need spring washers - easy...pretty sure the passenger one which is standard, never had any. - easy except maybe the two studs for seatbelt buckles which might not be long enough due to thickness of the seat mount base steel.

- Drivers seat buckle not easy to access next to bucket seat. This one might be difficult, because it mounts to a stud. Unless it is acceptable to mount it to an extension bar (will have to ask cert man). Maybe it's an option to make a raised tab on the race seat base? It is made of 5mm steel.... this is an annoying one. Maybe even moving the seat over a bit.

- Need to see proof of welds on rear quarters. Will see if the photos are ok from before it was painted. - maybe easy.

- Calibrate speedo - should be easy.

 

So over all, I need to throw a fist full of spring washers at everything that looks like a bolt.