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dodgypetes 1980 Mini 1275GT


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I've been lurking around here for a while now, so I thought I better start a thread on my Mini.

I've got a heap of photos but they won't load properly. I've uploaded them to iforce.co.nz and followed the instructions in //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/34643-how-to-add-pictures-to-the-forum/

If I put my image link in between the img tags they keep changing when I click preview and I get this message:

You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community

 

Help? Someone?

Discussion:

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53286-dodgypetes-1980-mini-1275gt-discussion/

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Well, the engine lasted about a week before smoke started pouring out of the rocker cover.

After a compression test it looked like the rings were gone on cylinder no. 2.

I pulled the engine and took it apart to confirm my suspicions. Sure enough, both compression rings were broken, and there was a nasty corrosion mark in the cylinder.

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I took it into what turned out to be the most expensive engine reconditioner in town. After the price estimates kept getting higher, I told them just to do the machining, and decided to have a go at rebuilding it myself.

This was pretty daunting for me since I hadn't (and still haven't) replaced a wheel bearing or ball joint etc. Might as well start with the hardest job!

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Being a complete noob I made a couple of mistakes, but got there in the end.

I wondered if the corrosion mark in the bore was because it had blown a head gasket at some point, and been left with water sitting in it?

It is now 1310cc (had to go up a size to get rid of the corrosion)

It ended up needing a replacement crank - had a huge crack in it.

I got the cam reground to a Kent MD266 profile.

This is what happens when you try to flip the gearbox over by yourself to bolt it onto the block, and drop it on your arm:

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I fitted a lightened double row timing chain and checked the cam timing. It was retarded by 7 degrees!

Ended up fitting an offset woodruff to get it right:

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I took ages building the engine and getting it back in the car. In the meantime I did some work on the interior.

I removed the shitty centre console with gauges you had to lie down to see:

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I removed the shitty tread plate parcel tray. Why do people do this??!??

I couldn't even give it away in the end.

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I made a new parcel tray - partly to cover the huge holes that had been hacked through the metal.

Made a cardboard template and after a bit of trial and error I got the shape right.

Also picked up a black(ish) vinyl rear seat and some new seat belts.

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The drivers door card was stuffed so I made 2 new ones. I cut off the pocket and carpet thingy with a razor blade then sprayed them black with vinyl paint. I was pretty keen to get rid of all the tan coloured vinyl, so I sprayed the rear cards as well, then ended up painting the rear seat - so the was one less shade of black.

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Pulled back the carpet to check the floor for rust. Tidied it up a bit then sprayed on some rust convertor.

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My original plan with the front seats was to try and mounted them properly.

I bought some seat frames designed for cobra seats, but they just weren't suitable for the mazda seats.

At that point I decided to continue shoveling money into a hole and bought some cobra seats.

The frames sat really high so I cut the brackets at the front down and the legs at the back. I also modified the brackets that bolt to the cross member.

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Discussion:

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53286-dodgypetes-1980-mini-1275gt-discussion/

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  • 3 weeks later...

The cylinder head needed new valve seats, guides, etc, so I decided to put it on the shelf and buy a ported big valve head.

The rockers were pretty worn, so I also picked up some 1.5:1 roller tip rockers.

The head sat around for about a year and a half before I fitted it. I had been grinding near the head (came wrapped in plastic) but it turned out the bag had a hole it, so the head ended up full of metal filings. When I finally noticed, I stripped it apart and gave it a good clean.

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Late last year I finally got the engine back in the hole. I installed new engine mounts which made it pretty tight. It took a lot of levering and someone sitting on the engine to finally get the bolts in.

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Cranked it over to get oil pressure, reconnected the plugs and it fired straight up.

A low quality sideways video as proof:

http://vid1116.photobucket.com/albums/k569/dodgy-pete/Mini2.mp4

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  • 4 months later...

After I got the engine running I realised that the twin carbs weren't very happy.

I tried tuning and balancing them but it wasn't happening, so I took them apart to discover they had different needles. The throttle shafts and bushes were also badly worn and leaking.

I decided to rebuild a HIF44 I picked up for $5. Picked up a rebuild kit, alloy manifold and K&N filter and got to work.

 

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I tried boiling all the crap off in simple green but it didn't really help. I eventually got it off with a lot of scrubbing

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Finally got it back together with new seals etc and a needle I guesstimated from similar spec engines

 

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Ended up having to reshape the alloy spacer block between the carb and manifold because the float bowl was hitting the firewall.

 

Initially it ran like crap but I eventually got it running really well with a bit of tinkering.

 

There was still a hesitation on acceleration so I played around with different grade oils in the dashpot. I replaced the damper with a different type which ultimately fixed the problem.

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The next problem I had was the cheap Auto Gauge temp gauge not reading correctly.

I probably spent waaaay too much time trying to get this right. I did a lot of testing in a pot of water with a thermometer at different temperatures.

The sender was definitely a bit dodgy (wasn't changing linearly with temp) so I replaced it and then used a few resistors to calibrate everything.

This photo was when I started and the gauge was reading approx 10 degrees lower than it should.

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