Replacement brake rotors drilled slotted nothing whats good?

[Muncie]

After owning my rough as guts commodore For 4 ish months ive screwed a bit of extra go out of it.

Its got to the point ive decided i need better brakes it shakes like buggery now when i hit the anchors so ive been hitting trademe to see what is out there straight brembo replacements slotted and drilled and slotted dimpled and slotted..... spoiled for choice they all are within 100$ of each other too. Whats the go? Im leaning towards the brembo replacement option or just curved slotted rotors,

Are all the holes and lots of slots just for show or am i missing out? I plan to give it a bit of stick but its not a Porsche so lots of holes in my standard sized discs seems like less surface area to brake with.

[AllTorque]

When you replace the front pads get the cop spec ones that have friction material over the whole of the backing plate. Most commodore pads only have it on 2/3rds.

[cletus]

drilled or slotted rotors can help.

the short version of why? when pads get hot, some of the stuff that bonds the pad together turns to gas. this microscopic layer of gas prevents the pad from 'gripping' the disc. the slots in a slotted disc let the gas out, reducing fade.

[JoKer]

ultimately not worth it tho, keltik has done few tests on both, just get good pads & fluid & reasonable set of smooth disks

[flyingbrick]

I ended up getting rda slotted and dimpled discs as they were simply the best value for a disc that was properly heat treated and coated etc.

DBA were next on the list but 2x the price.

[JoKer]

ultimately not worth it tho, keltik has done few tests on both, just get good pads & fluid & reasonable set of smooth disks

 

link & details here (sorry for 'other' forum link)

 

Fluid

 

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40541-Keltiks-Parts-Review&p=523128&viewfull=1#post523128

 

Brake Fluid

Castrol Dot 4[/size]

To be avoided. I used this stuff once and managed to get a spongy pedal on the road. It was cheap but really wasnt up for any spirited driving or towing.[/size]

Lucas Dot 5.1[/size]

This fluid was pretty good. I gave it some serious abuse on the track and it performed well. It was a great cheap price too but came out quite discolored after my track day. I wouldnt really recommend it because the next fluid is just so much better.[/size]

Motul RBF600[/size]

Yes its more expensive, but go and buy a liter of this stuff and use it from now on. Its brilliant! Holds up to excellent temps on the track and still looks good when you change it out. A fantastic product im happy to recommend.[/size]

Motul RBF660[/size]

As above, I used it once but probably wont again. For the extra cost, I really didnt get a massive benefit over the 600. For track days, its probably worth it. With a set of Hawk pads and this fluid, i could NOT get the brakes to fade around Manfeild. The entire day was enjoyed with a firm responsive pedal.[/size]

 

Rotor's

 

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40541-Keltiks-Parts-Review&p=523129&viewfull=1#post523129

 

Brake Rotors

TRW Plain[/size]

Excellent value for money here. At around $60 each, these are great and have stood up to some serious abuse without any issues. After 50,000kms they are starting to show their age with some very minor surface cracking. [/size]

Repco Plain[/size]

These rotors lasted one track day before i binned them, I dont know why but it seemed easy to get an uneven pad deposit on them then have shaky brakes. Either way, i used them for about 20,000kms and they took a pretty decent beating from some Bendix metal kings.[/size]

Znoelli S12 Slotted[/size]

What a great company! Are they still clubsub sponsors? Go and buy some of these if you want some breathtaking stopping power on the track. Good guys to deal with and the rotors appear to be a quality product that can take a lot of punishment. I burned the temperature changing paint off mine and got them blisteringly hot to the point they discolored the paint on my mags. They finally died after about 60,000kms and 5 track days. Surface stress cracks eventually split into decent full radius cracks in 4-5 places both sides of the rotor.[/size]

 

Pad's

 

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40541-Keltiks-Parts-Review&p=523130&viewfull=1#post523130

 

Brake Pads

Bendix Metal Kings (Older Pad) [/size]

Excellent brake performance on the road. These pads werent too dusty and lasted a long time but were utterly brutal on the rotors. Even after one set of these pads, i had a decent lip on the fronts. They were good and its a shame you cant buy them anymore, but its a good endorsement of the bendix brand.[/size]

Bendix General CT (1 set used)[/size]

Another excellent pad. I currently have a set of these in the front and they had a pretty good lifespan but are kind to the rotors. Dusting is very good and the stopping power on the street is good. They arent really up to any serious hard work so definitely keep them off the track. In heavy towing or very long spirited downhill sections they can get a bit vague.[/size]

C-Plus (1 set used)[/size]

I really didnt like these pads. I found them to give a soft not very assuring pedal on the road. It doesnt take much heat to see them go off either. Rather dusty and began to squeel. Again, i never skim my rotors so maybe i would have better results if i did. Used once, didnt even get all the way through the pad before i changed them out.[/size]

Bendix Ultimates (3 sets used)[/size]

An excellent pad. I seem to remember them being cheap for 2pots but more expensive for 4pot calipers. Either way, i think they are great value for the occasional track-day goer. They hold up to high temperature very well on a smooth rotor but seem to have a severe dislike for slots. Mine turned all mushy and started to break apart at high temp on a slotted rotor. A bit squeely on the street so i switched back to my General CT\'s after the last playday.[/size]

Ferodo TS2000 (2 sets used)[/size]

I cant speak highly enough of this pad. At around $220 its excellent value for money. It gives a great pedal feel on the road but does require a tiny bit of warming up before it will bite in nicely. On the track it can take all the punishment youre likely to give it. Its dusty as all **** and will barely last 2 track days but it will stop your car with confidence.[/size]

Hawk HP (1 set used)[/size]

A brilliant pad. I went through a set in one track day with slotted rotors but experienced some of the best braking my car has ever seen. Noisy and terrible when cold, as soon as you get some heat in them these pads are brilliant. Ive no idea what they cost because i got mine 2nd hand, but if they are under $300 for a set, it would be my track pad of choice.[/size]

[jakesae101]

pro tip trd brake fluid is the same as motul rbf600 but cheaper 

[thegreatestben]

I am told one of the functions of slots/holes is the allow air/gas to escape from between the surfaces to maximise pad contact/coefficient of friction. When hot pad is being mashed they release gases which hold the pad off the surface. I could be wrong but it makes sense in my head.

Fuck fully skimmed over Cletus saying this already.

[Roman]

My personal anecdote isnt directly comparable as my car is a lot lighter.

 

But I've found a pretty good recipe that has worked well for me at trackdays etc as well as road driving. (My brakes are heinously squeaky when cold though!)

 

-Brembo OEM replacement discs (not slotted etc but supposedly made from better material than cheaper options. High carbon iron or blah blah something something) These have never warped, cracked, or whatever else.

-Ferodo DS2200 pads (Wouldnt use these for a street only car though, as they squeak like crazy)

-Random dot 5.1 fluid from Repco or supercheap or where ever.

 

With this setup (on my car at least) Road tires give up well before the brakes do.

I have never ever experienced any brake fade, even after 9-10 lap stints at Hampton or similar lengths at Taupo.
I think once you get any sort of new disks on there to sort out the wobble... It will be your choice of pads and fluid that make or brake (hah) your setup for a street car.

 

[Muncie]

Have narrowed options to brembo replacements or znoeli dimpled and slotted rotors with police spec pads. theres some no name brand stuff with a zillion holes and slots cut into them which i wouldn't mind betting will crack up with moderate abuse once, they arent any cheaper than the 2 above brands either. Will the above options for brake fluid work with ABS happily?

[Muncie]

Edit

Just bought slotted znoelli's and police spec pads.

And a chip an exhaust and a 10 psi pulley kit..... go and stop this is a first for me.

[flyingbrick]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/1105658892 these are quality steel and heat treated

[Muncie]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/1105658892 these are quality steel and heat treated

Those were on my watchlist but i couldn't find any feedback on the brand and shipping on top from oz right? I may give em a bash in the back though. Loving super 6 holden though such a toy, v8 power on a v6 budget.

[flyingbrick]

Nah free post mate (I'm sure).. and all the talk ifound on RDA stuff was favorable.

Plus they weren't super expensive or super cheap..just plain good value

[Muncie]

I got a decent deal on the znoelli rotors otherwise would have hit the Rda stuff. Hopefully will get parts arriving Thursday afternoon so i can get onto fitting new bits over weekend.

[flyingbrick]

Oops I missed the part where u bought some. Sweeet. Does your car have the resin caliper pistons?

[Muncie]

Im not sure about resin pistons will know once i pull it to bits has near new pads in it from last owner. How will it effect new fluids?

[sr2]

For what it's worth in 20 years of building/racing competition cars I've only once ever encounter gas build up issues, the idea that this could be an issue on the street (presuming you’re running good quality pads) isn’t even worth consideration. Our current race car has been reaching temperatures where we are cooking the ceramic buffer between the piston and the brake pad to the point where they are crumbling, and I'm still running non slotted or drilled rotors (still with no hint of gas build up). My feeling is that there is a lot of aftermarket misinformation (i.e.B/S) out there being pushed by 3rd party suppliers.

Originally Rotors were only drilled to reduce un-sprung weight, great idea if you’re running a state of the art single seater but probably irrelevant for most other applications. Yes slotting can help control gas build up but unless you’re experiencing it all you’re doing is adding potential stress risers and reducing pad/rotor area per revolution. It would be great there was a magic bullet for rotor selection but there isn’t. The only advice I can give is that you will never regret buying quality components from reputable well established suppliers, (AP, Brembo, etc.).

[Muncie]

This is definitely a doing things once and right exercise. If im changing rotors i thought i might as well have the best within my budget so i dont warp the shit out of them again or crack them because i bought ones with "holes" everywhere.

[Bangbug]

Must say, with a good set of brakes braking actually gets pretty fun.
Though, it's pretty fun with rubbish ones too! haha.
J-hook because clever but no real need unless wanting to win races.