ThePog

The Pogs 1980 Nissan Uncivil Ian - Discussion

74 posts in this topic

Awwwwwjeah!

Congrats on such a wonderful result.

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Yea pretty stoked considering it hasn't had a cof since 2009!

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Good work,:) I have been a bus mechanic/owner for 25 years and I like what you have done.

I would say that in japan this would of been a Kindy bus, as the mainstream buses would of been higher in the roof, also the factory seat mounts would of been higher ( kindy buses have lower seats for the little ones).

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That makes sense, the roof height was ridiculous for any normal sized person, even my kids couldn't stand up in it... they do take after me tho.

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Getting the radiator recored should be no biggy - just drop it into your local radiator shop and they can get a core in from NatRad and they can repair the tanks at the same time. .

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Getting the radiator recored should be no biggy - just drop it into your local radiator shop and they can get a core in from NatRad and they can repair the tanks at the same time. .

 

Make sure you are sitting down for the price though. Just the core (which had to be custom ordered) for my teeny oxford was $470 + GST. That doesn't include fitting/fixing the tanks and frame.

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TBH if this is all I have to spend money on mechanically, I will be happy...

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Have rebuilt a cousin of that heater. I trust you have a manual? They're a really well engineered item. Lemme know if you need any details.

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It is currently cranking very hot air into the bus as a test run.. the only issue is that it is a bit smokey when starting, but I think its first start attempt is about getting fuel pressure, and it is burning off what it did get in there, as it always starts on the second go....


It is a sweet bit of kit tho, dem Germans know how to build stuff.

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You need to use the controller to turn them off, and not just pull the power, They do a cleaning cycle on the glow plugs as they power down. It might be worth considering the quality of the diesel, too. They ran quite smokey on one grade bio-diesel for a client.

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Yea I am doing that, it has a new glow plug and shield, and is pulling the correct number of amps. I will run it through a few full bore cycles and see what happens.

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@h4nd, I was wondering if you could provide me with some electrickery knowledge about this heater...

The bitch still isnt running well, it is pretty hard to start. I suspect it is a glow issue as you can get it started by briefly blocking the inlet or exhaust after is has started vapourising the fuel, the stagnation of the flow allows the glow to get a tad hotter and it often starts instantly when you do that.

So anyway I decided a full strip down was in order, and sure enough I found the combustion chamber gasket was broken. There were a few weird fibrous lumps of carbon/pinkish stuff that I guess must just be carbon buildup - these might have been obstructing the flow in the combustion chamber...whatevs, that is sorted.

The most interesting thing was that under the plastic case there was a second resistor, which is not well documented in the interwebs. Mostly all I can find is that it is used as a series resistor with the glow plug so a 12v glow can be used on a 24v system. I have measured the resistances of things and I get this;

24v glow = 1.9ohms, series resistor = 0.8 ohms.

My solar computer says that it initially draws 10A, then the glow relay starts pulsing and drawing 8.5ish. The voltage at the unit is 25v while it is starting.

Given my limited electrical knowledge so I may be barking up the complete wrong tree, I calculated using P = V^2/R that the glow + the series resistor on 24v would give ~ 230w, which means proportionally the glow would be seeing ~135w. The glow by itself would be more like 300w.

The specs on a 12v glow are 0.7 ohms max, which works out around 205w. And a 12v glow using the series resistor on a 24v system would see ~160w..

So what the fuck is going on? If what i have worked out is correct, the glow is not getting as hot as the glow in a 12v system, but bypassing the series resistor would probably get it too hot to last more than a few starts....

I have asked the supplier of the glow in the UK, but he has passed it off to the service manager.

So I am now assuming I am fucking up my calcs, and it would be good if you could give an opinion.... chur

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The brand new water units we had did the double start thing, if that's what you mean by hard to start?

From memory our ones also had 12V glow on our 24V system, and used 50% PWM to drop the V. This will read higher if you're using a standard Digital Voltage Meter, unless it has a true RMS feature (e.g. good quality Fluke meter) or an oscilloscope.

Our units had a platinum/palladium catalyst gauze around the glow plugs.

Pic of resistor? I don't recall anything like that in ours, I'd have to dig up the photos.

Our units had a standing load of around 65W for the water pump, and would throttle from 10% to 100% at run (~130W). We would see mid-200W during start (double peak over ~ a minute or two) and stop/clean, and one time saw 320W (I suspect it was heating both glow plugs, that time).

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There are youtube vids of these (Eberspacher D1LC) and in good knick the start is almost as soon as the fuel hits on the first glow cycle, mine will just about catch on the second cycle. Running it on kerosene improves things a fair bit tho.

Pretty sure my multimeter is true RMS (it was my AuCom leaving gift and I was slightly puzzled at the why they would buy one for a mechanical engineer, but holy shit it has been invaluable), but I was measuring the input side straight from the battery. I will need to check the glow side as well, as I guess there could be something in the controller dropping the volts.

The unit is 24V and so is the solar power supply side.

There is a stainless mesh shield around the glow.

I will have to take pics of the resistor when I get home, but basically it looks just like the glow plug, but with a different mounting.

I reckon I will stick it back together once the gaskets get here and see how it runs, if it is still not ok I will start messing with glow plugs and resistors.. I should be able to calculate the wattage that a different resistor will give.

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