SOHC Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 The front windscreen has come out of my 1981 Volvo, it has been replaced in the last 5 years by the last owner and was glued into the body like any modern car but the glue has let go. Where and what do you use to bond it back in? or where should I get it? Or can some one refit it for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbie Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 got glass cover in your insurance (got insurance?) could get it done that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 got glass cover in your insurance (got insurance?) could get it done that way I am not rich enough to have glass cover or pay smith and smith to fix it for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 If I get the windscreen bond stuff and clean everything up can I just put the glue on and put the glass back in? I have never done it befor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bronze Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Is it just the black gluegunk holding it in and no rubber? Is there trim that holds it in place? This is interesting. "If you have a ’90 or earlier 240, and you need to replace your windshield, ask the glass shop to install a ’91-’93 type windshield. It will actually be easier for them. If the shop is hesitant, they are probably not very sure about what they are doing. I called around until I found a shop that was willing to do it – they were actually very happy to learn that this works. The earlier windshields have the molding held by plastic clips that have to be inserted between the windshield and the body when the windshield is installed. With time these clips break, and the molding becomes loose in places. The newer type windshield just has a flat plastic molding that is better looking, is flusher with the body, and therefore produces less windnoise." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonK Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 The "black glue gunk" you're looking for is urethane sealer, you'll need to clean all of any sealer that isn't urethane off of both the screen and the aperture, trim the urethane that is left down to about 1 or 2mm thick on both the screen and glass, if you've got no urethane left on either peice then you'll need to prime them with a pinchweld primer. if the aperture doesnt have blocks for the screen to sit on (so that it doesn't compress the sealer and sit right down to the aperture) you'll need to apply a foam tape around the aperture, you only want it to around 3mm wide and high or so. apply the tape around the inside edge of the aperture, you should be able to see where it has been before. clean the urethane with water only, solvents will absorb in. you then want to cut your a v into your sealer nozzle about 1/2" high so that its easy to make the bead a uniform height apply a bead of urethane right around the aperture, about as wide as the existing urethane, making sure there's no gaps etc carefully put the glass into place, try to get it centred first time as you don't want to take it out again, dont slap on it or anything just give it a light press into the sealer untill it sits level reinstall the moulding around the edge assuming its a rubber t shape? leave a window open until the urethane is set so that you dont create pressure inside the car and push it out hope that helps 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Is it just the black gluegunk holding it in and no rubber? Is there trim that holds it in place? This is interesting. "If you have a ’90 or earlier 240, and you need to replace your windshield, ask the glass shop to install a ’91-’93 type windshield. It will actually be easier for them. If the shop is hesitant, they are probably not very sure about what they are doing. I called around until I found a shop that was willing to do it – they were actually very happy to learn that this works. The earlier windshields have the molding held by plastic clips that have to be inserted between the windshield and the body when the windshield is installed. With time these clips break, and the molding becomes loose in places. The newer type windshield just has a flat plastic molding that is better looking, is flusher with the body, and therefore produces less windnoise." Yes it has the later windscreen someone has glued in with a LOT of black shit, the chrome trim has clips and just pops on into the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 The "black glue gunk" you're looking for is urethane sealer, you'll need to clean all of any sealer that isn't urethane off of both the screen and the aperture, trim the urethane that is left down to about 1 or 2mm thick on both the screen and glass, if you've got no urethane left on either peice then you'll need to prime them with a pinchweld primer. if the aperture doesnt have blocks for the screen to sit on (so that it doesn't compress the sealer and sit right down to the aperture) you'll need to apply a foam tape around the aperture, you only want it to around 3mm wide and high or so. apply the tape around the inside edge of the aperture, you should be able to see where it has been before. clean the urethane with water only, solvents will absorb in. you then want to cut your a v into your sealer nozzle about 1/2" high so that its easy to make the bead a uniform height apply a bead of urethane right around the aperture, about as wide as the existing urethane, making sure there's no gaps etc carefully put the glass into place, try to get it centred first time as you don't want to take it out again, dont slap on it or anything just give it a light press into the sealer untill it sits level reinstall the moulding around the edge assuming its a rubber t shape? leave a window open until the urethane is set so that you dont create pressure inside the car and push it out hope that helps It has black stuff witch has set hard that had bulged through into the car in the corners but round the top its black and sticky. The rubber trim has a chrome trim ontop and has metal clips on the back and just pops into the gap between the glass and screen, I am pretty sure it hasn't been primed thats why it failed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 I rang smith and smith and they want $270 to do it and the 3 woman I spoke to none of them could pronounce Volvo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 My WB and my hz had windscreens glued in using vastly different adhesives. I'd be cautious about leaving any of the old stuff behind as a primer layer just incase the new stuff isn't compatible with it (or incase he old stuff is absolutely fucked for some reason . has to be a reason the screens come out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 Double sided tape (the black kind) will help you remove it in the future and cushion it from frame flex (not a problem in your car) but i only use that in the inner area, around that i use that window adhesive. That's how i do it. Other people might do differently. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 I got a tube of polyurethane primerless stuff, the glass has that black edge so it should be ok. I think it gave out because the person who did it didn't clean the old gummy shit off, the other glue is hard but the black tar stuff it soft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AALAWS Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 It's often problems with the chemical bonding process that cause the bond to fail. Make sure there's no traces of silicone based products being used on or near the aperture......if so, best to grind it back to metal and paint it again. if you have done that, once the paint is cured, lightly scotchbrite the surface and apply a coat of the black primer Sika Primer-206 G+P If the aperture is silicone free (people often use it to stop leaks - not wise), and there are any scuffs/scratches/bare metal spots, the same primer is ideal for that. But before that, after you have trimmed back the old urethane, give it a good clean and then prime it with Sika Activator Pro. wait 3 mins and then you can black prime with a dabber. (Give this 10 mins to flash off) Dont scrub the clear primer in, just drag it around on a clean paper towel, swapping the towel over and use a clean bit for the other side. Clean the ceramic (black) edge of the glass with Sika Activator Pro, wait 3 mins before applying the urethane - SikaTack Drive. Apply the urethane onto the glass, make sure there are no gaps. Get a few glass josters and have a mate help you lift it in, lining up the top corners first and gently laying the bottom onto the aperture. you can use some tape to hold the screen in place along the top (after 10 mins it won't move). Get the mouldings in asap as you have some flexibility with the urethane/height positioning of the screen. Give it an hour before you drive the car If I was still in Auckland I'd pop round and do it for you.....hopefully it isn't information overload 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 It's often problems with the chemical bonding process that cause the bond to fail. Make sure there's no traces of silicone based products being used on or near the aperture......if so, best to grind it back to metal and paint it again. if you have done that, once the paint is cured, lightly scotchbrite the surface and apply a coat of the black primer Sika Primer-206 G+P If the aperture is silicone free (people often use it to stop leaks - not wise), and there are any scuffs/scratches/bare metal spots, the same primer is ideal for that. But before that, after you have trimmed back the old urethane, give it a good clean and then prime it with Sika Activator Pro. wait 3 mins and then you can black prime with a dabber. (Give this 10 mins to flash off) Dont scrub the clear primer in, just drag it around on a clean paper towel, swapping the towel over and use a clean bit for the other side. Clean the ceramic (black) edge of the glass with Sika Activator Pro, wait 3 mins before applying the urethane - SikaTack Drive. Apply the urethane onto the glass, make sure there are no gaps. Get a few glass josters and have a mate help you lift it in, lining up the top corners first and gently laying the bottom onto the aperture. you can use some tape to hold the screen in place along the top (after 10 mins it won't move). Get the mouldings in asap as you have some flexibility with the urethane/height positioning of the screen. Give it an hour before you drive the car If I was still in Auckland I'd pop round and do it for you.....hopefully it isn't information overload Cool thanks for that information, I am sure it failed as the black sticky goo was the stuff they put on the aperture when using the old rubber system that use to hold the screen in, they just urethaned over it when they bonded the screen in, it took me 3 hours to clean it off. I got the clips for the molding on but not the trim I hope I can get that back on 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AALAWS Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Cool thanks for that information, I am sure it failed as the black sticky goo was the stuff they put on the aperture when using the old rubber system that use to hold the screen in, they just urethaned over it when they bonded the screen in, it took me 3 hours to clean it off. I got the clips for the molding on but not the trim I hope I can get that back on You that'll do it ha ha. Rubber fit sealant mixed with urethane will leave you in the poo for sure. There may be options for a generic rubber trim you can use as an option. I can't remember your car/screen fitment of the top of my head but glasscorp on bush rd in albany will have a range of universal mouldings you could choose from, or just pop into a smith and smith and ask if you can buy a few metres.....they'll probably just give you a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Glue trim on and pretend? i did that on a car once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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