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1983 Civic EN Head Removal HELP!


Naratechwin

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Long time stalker, first time poster.

Bought an '83 Civic a few weeks ago with a blown head-gasket in Picton for a hundred bucks and proceeded to drive it back to Christchurch (actually made it). Oil was pretty thoroughly mixed with water (also was spat into the air filter, with a little pool of oil collecting there). Anyway, being armed with a Haynes Manual and minimal experience in tearing apart engines I set upon removing the head to replace the head-gasket. This is as far as I've got; Intake Manifold, Exhaust Manifold, distributor, alternator bracket, cambelt and head studs all removed but the head ain't coming off! If anyone could help me out with ideas on what I've missed or tricks to getting heads off would be ideal! Have left all the rocker gear and camshaft in.

Cheers! :)

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Often an engine that has been overheated will be harder to remove the head from. It tends to stick to the block.

Camshaft and valvetrain will not cause a problem. I've had a similar issue with a cylinder head on an old Jag which had been overheated. Used an engine crane to finally yank the head off.

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Its been a long time since I've pulled one of these heads off but from memory there is a couple of random 10mm head bolts hidden the perimeter of the head which you need to undo to get the head off. It's been a long time so I could well be wrong.

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Thanks for the advice guys. Have given it a few knocks with a rubber mellet and no success. Kicked it from the side to try loosen it and that hasn't worked either. The side of the cam sprocket seems lose (can see a slight gap between head and block when pulled up on that side) but the opposite side ain't budging. Might try borrow a crane to see if that'll pull it off.

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You should not need to use an engine crane to pull it off - the only time I've had to do that is on a Jag which is an alloy head on a steel block with steel studs running through the water jackets so the alloy corrodes and swells around the headstuds.

I've had a look at some EN1 Civic head pictures tonight but couldn't see any obvious hidden bolts. (see below)

PS - tapping it with a claw hammer won't do fuck-all (if that is what you've used) they are made to be lightweight so builders can swing em all day long and won't have any grunt to dislodge a sticking head.

You need something with a bit of weight behind it but also soft so you don't damage the alloy..

A copper-rawhide hammer if you have one or whack it with a grunty mallet but with a block of wood between your mallet and the head.

 

Looking at your photos I can see a potential problem when you lift the head off, so make sure you get all the washers out that were under the head bolts so they don't slip under the cam and get missed on reassembly then get smashed up on start up - there should be 10 washers     (and also check that you have removed 10 head-bolts - just to be sure - LOL)

 

 

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I've hit a head with a hammer and block of wood that wouldn't move, darn thing popped off in quite a hurry, I now leave a strategic bolt or two in loosely so the head can't fall off or knock the valves around when things need to get rough

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My preference was to whip all the push rods out and crank it over till it pops its clogs with stubborn heads on blocks. I would wrap a ratchet strap around a rafter in the garage and anchor to the head and put some tension on it a few clicks not to much and go to work should stress the crusty old gasket enough it peels away during the day if it has head studs getting them out will help alot.

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