Raizer Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Picked up a 92 Delica today with a 4G63, since thats not OS lets pretend it's an old Sigma with a later carb and AC fitted lol Any way it was idling at about 1200rpm when i got it, wound down what I thought was the idle screw and it did nothing, so adjusted the other obvious idle looking screw and again nothing, ending up getting a bit rough cunt on it and bent the stopper on the throttle linkage and it's idling now at around 750. Problem is while testing if stuff works I have discovered the AC will kill the engine if I flick it on at idle, so I'm assuming one of the idle controls I've fucked with it the idle up, wound the long one with the big plastic head in so it would idle with AC on but it put the base idle through the roof, have given up for the night, but it'd be good to know which is which and why neither dropped the idle? I went into it assuming this was how the screws worked Oh and while I'm asking retarded questions, there's a condenser on my dizzy I believe is just to take noise out, where is it meant to be connected? To the coil right? Old owner has used these lovely connectors to extend the stock coil wiring away in front of the radiator and from the old style can coil to a transformer type coil, but they had left the wire from that condenser just tucked aside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 that's an Electro carb which I know nothing about sorry broseph. I know there's an L300 at a wreckers near me with one if you ever want one as a spare. As for the condenser - I'm not sure where it would go too. I would have thought being electronic ignition it wouldn't need one and can't recall seeing one on any of my carb mitsus before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 All good man, will clean it up and see if I can figure out what does what, being in a van it's nearly impossible to see anything on that side of the carb. Mirror might help though. If it didn't have AC I'd be swapping it out with a 32/36 or at least a carb without shitloads of vac tubes! Yeah that's what confused me with the condenser too, it's def not points so I just figured it's to stop radio noise or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 that's an Electro carb which I know nothing about sorry broseph. I know there's an L300 at a wreckers near me with one if you ever want one as a spare. Did any of the simpler 4G63 carbs come with idle up? Would be keen to swap to a carb without all the vac lines etc, but need a carb that will bump up the idle with the AC, I want to keep the AC working as both zones blow really cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Sorry I can't help directly but if the idle screw is doing nothing it usually points at a blockage or leak somewhere, check float levels and replace/inspect the carb and manifold gaskets. high idle to me says vacuum leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Fit a simpler carb and a vacuum switching valve off a tvis toyota that's triggered when turning the AC on to give a slight vacuum leak/idle up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim13 Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 isnt this the generation with the autochoke that gums up inside and out ? if so often the suplementry idleup unit for a/c & p/s wont be engaging cause choke still on a bit ...... worth checking what choke is doing before you go much further anyway cause that may explain the high idle you are trying to adjust/bend into submission too ! also check basics like timing and vacuum leaks sooner rather than later , good luck 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Ah OK, thanks for the tip, I'll attempt to give it a good clean up today and see what happens! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Thanks for the tip, sprayed some cleaner around the choke, scrubbed out as much shit as I can from in the carb and yeah idles mint, adjustment works, set the idle up and it's working mint! Is a nasty vac leak in that blob where 3 vac lines congeale onto the side of the carb, will attempt to fix that now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 the 80s Mitsu 2.0 with carbs are just a standard carb with a solenoid triggered vacuum operated idle up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 Cleaning up the choke helped a lot, still didn't want to idle below 1000rpm, found there is another little adjustment screw tucked away near the end of the linkage.Backed that off 1.5 turns now the idle adjuster goes from not running when backed out up to 2500rpm fully wound in.Replaced all the vac lines and it's running fucking awesome now, idles smooth at 750. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 I can't help with much else but don't even some 90s coil packs still have condensers? I had 4g93 coil packs on my gemini and I'm positive it had a condenser (or atleast something that looked like one) on it 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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