The Night Rider

The Night Rider's 1986 Toyota MR-2 AW11

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Link to discussion thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52819-the-night-riders-1986-toyota-mr-2-aw11-discussion/

 

Alright so a bit of background for those who care to read:

 

I bought this car recently from a car collector after seeing an internet advertisement for it. The collector was an older gentleman who had quite a few old American cars and some others such as a Merc, mini, and all three generations of the MR-2; apparently he was wanting to thin the herd down a little. So basically I gave this guy a call asking about the car and its history, He didn't have internet so we ended up having a few back and forth conversations before finally agreeing on a price. He was quite nice and funny to talk to so it wasn't like hard negotiations or anything, more just like talking about the car, which was nice =)
 
To be honest I didn't really think that I'd get the car so I was kind of surprised when we finally agreed. What! I bought a car unseen in person over the phone from some guy 6 hours away! I had never done this before. 
 
Anyway the day came to pick it up, I was pretty nervous that it might be really rough in person or weather or not it would even make the trip back home (like I said it was a collectors car so not driven much). Because of this when I finally arrived home with a very clean AW11, I was so glad. I must have spent about an hour or so just walking around it looking at it from different angles while the sun set. 
 
...Skip forward a month or so and the car suffered some pretty bad overheating, lol. Basically the engine is cooked (probably can be rebuilt). 
 
Despite this, I love this car way too much to even consider selling (I've been though quite a few cars btw). So there was no doubt in my mind about what needed to be done... it will be reborn. 
 
I'm going to be replacing the engine (will keep original engine for a future rebuild) and because everything will be out of the car I will also do a manual swap since there is no better time for it. I want to keep it original for the most part, but will likely have a few light modifications. 
As I said, I only had it for a month or two before this incident happened so the craving to drive it again is steadily building. 
 
Some pics of it before the incident:
DSC_0040_zpsem0uukfh.jpg
 
DSC_0441_zpsycnqo7qc.jpg
 
DSC_0046_zpshjwltfgc.jpg
 
DSC_0425_zpslyzvfiwm.jpg
 
DSC_0429_zps1v4wz5we.jpg
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The first thing I noticed after getting the car was that the ride was not as expected, also there was a knocking noise from the front of the car. After inspecting all the main bushings they all seemed quiet tight. However, lifting the wheel up and down with a pry bar created the same knocking noise. This meant it was most likely either worn top hats or shocks, or both. 

 

I decided to investigate further:

IMG_2241_zpsro3kcuo3.jpg

 

IMG_2243_zpsn4h2lrpz.jpg

 

IMG_2244_zpsjyzywqlb.jpg

 

Don't worry, I was just loosening it without the spring compressor since it can be difficult without tension:

IMG_2245_zpselpeqfei.jpg

 

Rest of loosening down with compressor in place:

IMG_2247_zpsgdsugher.jpg

 

IMG_2248_zpsw54wonmq.jpg

 

Horrible:

IMG_2249_zpsjtqogsup.jpg

 

So this is what I found with the shocks, obviously in need of replacement:

 


 

 

IMG_2250_zps0thhybxm.jpg

 

IMG_2242_zpsif8o6nzy.jpg

 

Cleaned up the top hats as they seemed fine:

IMG_2253_zpsjzqeo3qb.jpg

 

Re-greasing:

IMG_2256_zpsl450j7ax.jpg

 

IMG_2255_zpssohrgp99.jpg

 

Cleaned up strut housings:

IMG_2268_zpsijoypy9r.jpg

 

New shocks:

IMG_2267_zps46vohi6l.jpg

 

New dust seals and assembled making sure orientation of top hats was correct (it was not correct previosly):

IMG_2271_zps4iw8e6jt.jpg

 

IMG_2272_zpskhoo0qfk.jpg

 

Re-installed with copper antiseize paste on all camber adjustment tabs/bolts:

IMG_2273_zpsbekgghly.jpg

 

IMG_2274_zpsacdqnoos.jpg

 

Went for alignment:

031_zpswvsqlvjf.jpg

 

 

NOTE: I haven't shown pics, but I also replaced both rear shocks also. They were quite worn too, although no where near as badly. 

 

Now as you can see the front and rear toe was hugely off. I'm sure the suspension refresh affected it a bit but to be honest it was completely off even before because it was a death trap to drive in the rain. Also as I mentioned above that the top hats were not oriented correctly (they have an arrow which should point out), I'm sure this also affected the alignment specs, maybe camber as it was noticeably easier to turn the steering after this (no power steering btw). 

 

After doing all this work and the alignment it was so nice to drive.

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Sometime after restoring the suspension is when the engine overheated.

 

So when I decided how to go about fixing it I started collecting parts for the manual swap. One day I was just roaming some car parts yard and literally stumbled across a facelift AW11 by accident. I was pretty surprised because I haven't even seen an SW at car parts yard before (though I don't visit much).

 

I got some parts needed for the manual swap, plus some other random cool stuff:

IMG_2544_zpshymat4tc.jpg

 

IMG_2541_zpsfuroht8a.jpg

 

IMG_2540_zpsuqrr09zy.jpg

 

IMG_2565_zps3pxn7qrv.jpg

 

IMG_2564_zps78mcwn7p.jpg

 

IMG_2545_zpspm15sfvy.jpg

 

IMG_2543_zpsdb0wmvlx.jpg

 

IMG_2542_zpsuigrtobe.jpg

 

IMG_2539_zpsz6nown52.jpg

 

IMG_2538_zpsbnyzxyqz.jpg

 

 

Actually after I got these parts I managed to find someone wreaking a relatively low K AW11 so I got the complete manual swap from it since the parts were in better condition. Now i have two of the manual parts (shifter, brake/clutch etc). 

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I had some free time so decided to adjust the odometer on the replacement manual instrument cluster to the same reading as my original odometer.

 

Here is the replacement manual instrument cluster:

IMG_2570_zpsfchdt36b.jpg

 

And here is the Km's it reads:

IMG_2571_zpsplkggun9.jpg

 

How many K's my car/cluster have done:

IMG_2579_zpslipgte3d.jpg

 

Flipped over and starting to open it:

IMG_2568_zps4bzhmktl.jpg

 

This thing is the speed chime which making a sound when you exceed 100Km/h (roughly). 

IMG_2569_zpsocl7xnul.jpg

 

Plastic cover removed:

IMG_2572_zpsspmwnogb.jpg

 

Interior cover removed:

IMG_2573_zpsn0ov19gh.jpg

 

Some kind of really weird effect I noticed on the inside, like Lichtenberg figures:

IMG_2574_zpskbgszmi3.jpg

 

Speedo/odo removed:

IMG_2576_zpsvtwwph0q.jpg

 

Odo separated from speedo:

IMG_2578_zps1gxuuaup.jpg

 

In order to adjust the reading the barrel/stack had to be removed:

IMG_2581_zpsu1az5c16.jpg

 

Cleaning it up:

IMG_2583_zpsqbjmrlqj.jpg

 

IMG_2584_zpsb83p97jf.jpg

 

178812Km:

IMG_2585_zpsdjupdshj.jpg

 

To remove the barrel two small plastic tabs? had to be broken, it fit back without any issues however to make sure it doesn't fall out over hard bumps I applied a little epoxy:

IMG_2593_zpsjz1irfj1.jpg

 

Housing cleaned up:

IMG_2586_zpsnr1bvs9x.jpg

 

At this point I had everything back together except the speed chime. It had quite a bit of surface rust which I wanted to clean up:

IMG_2587_zpspvkbqjzx.jpg

 

So I used electrolysis to clean it up a little:

IMG_2589_zpslsc0fbdm.jpg

 

Bubbles are hydrogen and oxygen so don't leave this overnight in a confined space:IMG_2590_zpsevuochlp.jpg

 

All done:

IMG_2596_zpsj2bvnkr7.jpg

 

By the way, hes a short video I made of the speed chime in operation:


 

Finally reassembled and on the bench till testing:

IMG_2599_zpsd8ddpnv4.jpg

 

 

 

 

Oh and here is a slightly more artistic shot I took with my other camera, just because I thought it would look cool:

DSC_0101s_zpsf8yvxcmd.jpg

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Since all the parts are out of the car its the best opportunity to clean them all and protect them from future rust. So I cleaned up all the rust (again using electrolysis) and applied some rust preventative coating on the brake pedal, clutch pedal, the pedal brackets and the shifter mount. 

 

But first I disassembled the shifter mechanism and cleaned it up/refreshed it with new grease:

IMG_2605_zpsywriyott.jpg

 

IMG_2606_zps9ayoaerk.jpg

 

DSC_0001_zpsegxeuhtd.jpg

 

DSC_0002_zpsvyurjx6t.jpg

 

DSC_0003_zpsqtmgufpd.jpg

 

 

Brake and shifter brackets disassembled:

IMG_2603_zpsiygkqoyx.jpg

 

IMG_2604_zpsk1yliz6j.jpg

 

After being cleaned with soapy water to remove dust and other such shit:

IMG_2607_zps1cp2cphf.jpg

 

 

 

NOTE: At this point I removed the rust from these parts using electrolysis again, however, can't find my pics for this.

 

 

brake and shifter brackets with the rust coating done:

IMG_2614_zpsgjucpeuq.jpg

 

 

Cleaned up pedal bushings/bolts and re-greased(hands were too greasy to take pics of greased components):

IMG_2624_zps7tgihebj.jpg

 

Cleaned up pedal hole as well (also re-greased):

IMG_2625_zpswzqcbiol.jpg

 

Did the same for clutch:

IMG_2626_zps0zsgjm1e.jpg

 

 

Shifter assembled:

IMG_2615_zpstcton5sj.jpg

 

All three (Obviously this pic was taken before brake pedal had been mounted to bracket):

IMG_2619_zpsehn4162h.jpg

 

Go away!

IMG_2561_zps4dwgjfut.jpg

 

IMG_2562_zpsmpgdvvpe.jpg

 

 

Shifter that should have come with car originally: 

IMG_2620_zpsgzdezzfq.jpg

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Alright so not much actual progress on the swap but quite an import update.

 

I managed to find a replacement engine. By the way I'm not ignoring you guys regarding the fact that my engine may still be in good enough condition for a simple rebuild, or maybe even just a head resurface and gasket. Like I said, I will be keeping my original engine and look into it later on when I have more time and learn more about 4age rebuilds. 

I'm a bit uncomfortable doing it feeling so unprepared.  

 

This new engine I found was running well according to the seller and was removed for a rebuilt turbo project. To be honest the price was reasonable enough that even if it doesn't run I wouldn't be too annoyed. As can be seen below its a bigport with 7 rib block. Fine with me since I'm not after any significant power gains, more of a simple re-power. 

 

Transporting it home:

IMG_2642_zpsmas5kdcl.jpg

 

Was quite dirty, so started cleaning it up a little:

IMG_2649_zpspotfl8da.jpg

 

Dirt:

IMG_2657_zpsdzforugh.jpg

 

A little cleaner:

IMG_2656_zpszwbvk1mp.jpg

 

Other side a little cleaner too

IMG_2658_zps4fidveb5.jpg

 

I needed a place to store it till I get my engine out (also need to do a bit of maintenance on it (sorry for terrible picture, hard to capture with so much back light):

IMG_2661_zpshwl3ggre.jpg

 

A better view:

IMG_2660_zpsn5ywoymq.jpg

 

I didn't want to rest the engine on the crank so I cut two pieces of timber for it to rest on. The 4AG has two little bolts on the bottom of the block (im guessing for aligning the sump. To allow the engine to rest flat I had to drill two holes in the timbers:

IMG_2663_zpskqpqoj5q.jpg

 

Maybe this shows what I mean more clearly:

IMG_2665_zps6dht7wxu.jpg

 

Resting nicely:

IMG_2664_zps8wrr9cb9.jpg

 

I blocked the spark plug holes to prevent dust/shit getting into the cylinders:

IMG_2668%201_zpsttnahacv.jpg

 

As it sits now, waiting for more work to be done:

IMG_2669_zpscffkibnt.jpg

 

IMG_2679_zps4j3yxtrl.jpg

 

 

I will be cleaning it up more thoroughly later on, I just wanted to get the majority of the dirt off it so it wouldn't make a mess of the bench and my hands when working on it. 

Will most likely put on a new water pump and timing belt/tensioner at least. 

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Okay so although I want to keep the car mostly stock, there are a few modifications I will be making. Other than the manual swap the next biggest mod is going to be ITB's! 

 

I picked these up some time ago:

IMG_2360_zpsysifcgyn.jpg

IMG_2361_zpswi1wywfr.jpg
 
IMG_2364_zps7ti0mmpt.jpg
 
IMG_2367_zpsmx6tcxjh.jpg
 
IMG_2369_zpsp5ktiaeg.jpg
 
Cleaned up:
IMG_2386_zpshhbuibtx.jpg
 
Still a little cleaning to do on the insides:
IMG_2388_zpsflpbrdy0.jpg
 
Anyway that was quite a while ago. 
 
Although I'm no where near installing the throttles I got something in the mail today which is why I'm posting this ITB related stuff.
 
IMG_2715_zpscvpnzmgx.jpg

IMG_2716_zpsx5ytccou.jpg
 
Hmm.. what could this be:
IMG_2717_zpsow4oefla.jpg
 
ITB adapter of course:
IMG_2719_zpspkhwkkhq.jpg
 
Nice, as it should be; I didn't realize the NZD had dropped to what it is now...
IMG_2720_zpsljir6gjl.jpg?t=1463974218
 
Like I said I'm no where near installing the ITB's but I couldn't help it; had to see:
DSC_0004_zps7ut3dhhg.jpg
 
DSC_0005_zpsnf5oamdd.jpg
 
DSC_0008_zpsmert1c49.jpg
 
I thought the throttles looked pretty clean but now with them next to the adapter they look dirty again.
 
Had to check what it looked like on the engine too:
IMG_2724_zpskmjhnlkf.jpg
 
..Engine is still so dirty too.. 
 
Anyway moving on. I also had to order a new distributor rotor, cap and seal because the originals were no good (as you will see below):
IMG_2722_zps9sgnyc3t.jpg
 
Original distributor off my car, which I will be using:
IMG_2695_zpsvzqytp9n.jpg
 
Doesn't look good:
IMG_2696_zps5kk65zvb.jpg
 
Seems the rotor had somehow rubbed or burnt the plastic cap??
IMG_2698_zpspjlalc9h.jpg
 
Honestly I'd seemed to run well but couldn't just ignore this, which is why I bought the OEM Toyota replacement parts.
 
IMG_2725_zpsnqznccyd.jpg
 
New rotor:
IMG_2728_zpsvmmxaakq.jpg
 
New cap:
IMG_2730_zpseefdjori.jpg
 
New seal:
IMG_2731_zpsmcrc42ga.jpg
 
IMG_2732_zps5fk2cz98.jpg
 
Cleaned up dizzy heat shield:
IMG_2733_zpsonyanhms.jpg
 
Refurbished unit:
IMG_2734_zpsgjjpdn7g.jpg
 
 
Alright onto another completely different area. The transmission and its various brackets/ linkages were looking pretty bad so I decided to clean them up and coat them with the same rust preventative coating as I did the brake/clutch/shifter parts.
 
Here's what it initially looked like:
IMG_2688_zpsw6s4als2.jpg
 
IMG_2689_zps3rmkdht6.jpg
 
IMG_2690_zpst9rhizav.jpg
 
Note the direction of the arrow on rubber seal (not really sure if this was important, but best to reassemble the same way):
IMG_2692_zpsxc6b7ruy.jpg
 
IMG_2693_zpsczmapnc7.jpg
 
Rust/protection coating:
IMG_2699_zpsodm91f5z.jpg
 
IMG_2736_zpsi4wxlkod.jpg
 
IMG_2740_zpsqdpng6un.jpg
 
IMG_2741_zpsiosfpbdv.jpg
 
IMG_2742_zpsojidgvdl.jpg
 
Feels a lot smoother now.
 
Oh I also picked up a blacktop flywheel since it is about ~1.2Kg lighter than the 16V one, stock feel/driveability should be retained while being slightly quicker revving. Of course it needs resurfacing.
IMG_2686_zpsyxs3qyep.jpg
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I thought I better check the ITB adapter to make sure it actually fit. It seemed to not fit initially but then I realized it was just the vacuum barb touching the coolant pipe, this can simply be solved by removing the barb, fitting the adapter and then re-fitting the barb through the gap between the coolant pipe and engine block.

IMG_2780_zpsu4udif2k.jpg

 

Anyway back to work, this time I did the clutch salve cylinder bracket. No pictures of the entire disassembly or cleaning etc, getting a little bored of this painting business:

IMG_2749_zpsrzhr9rtk.jpg

 

IMG_2760_zpsz3swn48y.jpg

 

 

The slave cylinder is located in a kind of unpleasant area, so I decided to rebuild it in hopes of not having to do it later on when access is restricted:

IMG_2687_zps6txqlftg.jpg

 

A little compressed air easily pushes the piston out:

IMG_2773_zpsiscwyqfj.jpg

 

Used Vs. new... glad I decided to do this:

IMG_2777_zpsztpver06.jpg

 

New piston in:

IMG_2778_zpsgognw1rj.jpg

 

Finished cylinder:

IMG_2779_zps10ksqfbt.jpg

 

 

Alright so at this point I was tired of seeing the transmission looking so dirty so thought I would deal with it next. This is how it looked when I got it:

IMG_2688_zpsw6s4als2.jpg

 

In the progress of being cleaned up:

IMG_2745_zpsxal83xvd.jpg

 

IMG_2746_zpsasz4tsff.jpg

 

IMG_2748_zpsltukvt62.jpg

 

IMG_2761_zpshiljgxzh.jpg

 

Again I kind of forgot to take pictures after getting busy with this, however, once it was all clean I used some etch primer on it:

IMG_2763_zps6npuewaa.jpg

 

Painted black:

IMG_2767_zpssn2h3hwm.jpg

 

IMG_2772_zpsxkx5wwan.jpg

 

 

Ok next it was time to remove the axles which I had been putting off for a long time. I had never removed axles before and thought they would be a nightmare for some reason, they were actually pretty easy.

IMG_2789_zpscylstddz.jpg

 

IMG_2790_zpsnmapnzey.jpg

 

IMG_2794_zpswx4dlzpj.jpg

 

As suspected the auto and manual axles seem to be identical (bottom one is my original one, middle one is the one I got with manual swap):

IMG_2795_zpstai9h4pz.jpg

 

 

Also time to drain the oil and disconnect all the engine and trans oil coolers:

IMG_2797_zpsdu3oij1u.jpg

 

Chocolate milk as a result of the head gasket failing:

IMG_2796_zpsk5tjiy1r.jpg

 

IMG_2798_zpsxjphazsw.jpg

 

So as you can probably guess this is all leading towards removing the engine. I went down to the garage today expecting to do one or two small jobs.. ended up dropping the engine, I suppose it was going to happen one day soon. I had gradually been removing all the accessories/wiring etc. so there wasn't one single big load of work.

 

Soon to be out:

IMG_2799_zpsaq2eknlo.jpg

 

IMG_2800_zpsukcp7uvk.jpg

 

 

I know its a shitty situation having the crane up near a wall like this, had I known it could only work in this position I would have tried to move the car earlier. The reason it doesnt work from behind is because the transmission touches the cranes leg. 

IMG_2801_zpscqnep11x.jpg

 

IMG_2802_zps63ruopvx.jpg

 

IMG_2805_zpsstj8s7th.jpg

 

Because of the location of the diff and the engine lift points it kind of went down a bit crooked:

IMG_2806_zpstg3tlsec.jpg

 

 

And well that is all I have. At the moment the engine is resting on the ground still partially in the engine bay, I'll get better pics tomorrow but chances are I won't be able to actually get the engine out from under the car until sometime later. 

 

 

Oh, I got something nice in the mail:

IMG_2758_zpscplu5bx4.jpg

 

IMG_2759_zps527pid1b.jpg

 

DSC_0004_zpszskuj6dz.jpg

 

Again it was too hard to wait so I installed the shift cables even though it would have been 10x easier with the engine out of the way:

IMG_2764_zpsntxmdtn8.jpg

 

It feels so right having a manual shifter in there rather then the auto:

IMG_2766_zpsvciq7nwc.jpg
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I've been disassembling the old engine and cleaning up parts which I will be reusing. 

 

IMG_2832_zpsafncfsgu.jpg

 

Coolant hoses removed:

IMG_2841_zpsxmszkblk.jpg

 

Coolant passages full of shit:

IMG_2839_zpsfxucmcyp.jpg

 

Bolts on the front water neck mount were pretty rusty and the top one sheared in half:

IMG_2838_zpsabamgatv.jpg

 

Autobox removed:

IMG_2874_zpseh5kwgzi.jpg

 

IMG_2863_zps8usvcybb.jpg

 

Sump removed (will be reused as new engine didn't come with one):

IMG_2864_zpsxao0yaff.jpg

 

Some kind of plastic and RTV shit caught on the oil pickup strainer, wonder how much got past (previous owners mechanic didn't do a nice job of re sealing the oil pan, overused RTV):

IMG_2865_zpsqcopwts5.jpg

 

Obviously water in the oil from head gasket failure:

IMG_2868_zpsfpqs5ukv.jpg

 

Removing cams:

IMG_2858_zpsqhtrd8wq.jpg

 

IMG_2906_zpsi7hg1nqk.jpg

 

Head removed:

IMG_2914_zpscf1c4wok.jpg

 

Block:

IMG_2907_zpsuggpm4f3.jpg

 

Hone marks still seem good:

IMG_2908_zpsed8cvzbb.jpg

 

Head gasket failed on cyl 4:

IMG_2913_zps0itxwwuc.jpg

 

IMG_2928_zpswjxwtlae.jpg

 

 

Alright that's it for the old engine, for now. After this I started cleaning up parts that I will be reusing.

 

IMG_2899_zpsdqionfq7.jpg

 

IMG_2901_zpskr29o7fi.jpg

 

IMG_2902_zpsjketku7o.jpg

 

IMG_2921_zps62ol9g40.jpg

 

 

Alternator was pretty dirty, no money atm to rebuild it but it was working fine so will just get a clean for now:

IMG_2884_zpsvs4y78fs.jpg

 

IMG_2923_zpsogdmlcxz.jpg

 

IMG_2924_zpsuwzwcv8c.jpg

 

Starter also, sorry for terrible pic:

IMG_2896_zpsooed5lvs.jpg

 

Re finishing valley cover:

IMG_2920_zpsjy8rmaxj.jpg

 

IMG_2926_zpsw6yitjgd.jpg

 

Refinishing valve covers:

IMG_2894_zps1kerjr75.jpg

 

Casting lines don't look so nice, so I sanded them off:

IMG_2889_zpslgv5ejmt.jpg

 

IMG_2890_zpsn9jbxrgd.jpg

 

IMG_2895_zpspby0xpuq.jpg

 

High heat primer:

IMG_2932_zpsh3omumem.jpg

 

IMG_2939_zpsraitlufr.jpg

 

My method for curing paint overnight:

IMG_2934_zpsahf8yjdt.jpg

 

Spraying red:

IMG_2935_zpspefigsnt.jpg

 

IMG_2952_zpsaw3khmr8.jpg

 

IMG_2959_zpse8lhywco.jpg

 

Okay valve covers done. 

I broke the engine bay temp sensor removing the engine:

IMG_2943_zpswxlhtj0r.jpg

 

So I went to the junkyard to find a replacement:

IMG_2944_zpsum8ofczr.jpg

 

Also my valve cover washers/seals were really worn:

IMG_2936_zps1otvrqr5.jpg

 

Replacements are used and not perfect but a lot better:

IMG_2957_zpstp9t21gx.jpg

 

Also found a facelift strut bar:

IMG_2883_zpsgh9t7pwz.jpg

 

 

I felt like test fitting the valve covers and ITB's together, but first I got replacement screws for the ITB's. They originally use a phillips head which easily get ****ed upon removal, so I bought screws with hex heads:

IMG_2960_zpsb45gpfhs.jpg

 

IMG_2961_zpslx8dejsc.jpg

 

IMG_2962_zpstqjqupjw.jpg

 

Fitted inc. throttle linkage:

DSC_0005_zpseiaqcur7.jpg

 

 

 

DSC_0008_01_zpsxvbb14hd.jpg

 

 

Anyway that's it for now, progress is a little slow. A lot of weird shit happening to me recently, run of back luck etc..

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As you might remember from the pics of the engine when I first got it; it was pretty dirty and oily. Its an old engine and chances are the oil seals have never been replaced, so I thought I better address this. 
 
IMG_2999_zpsyijyznww.jpg
 
Removing cam timing gears:
IMG_2986_zpsatz4mxig.jpg

IMG_2987_zpsymkhxlva.jpg
 
IMG_2988_zpspxtgq420.jpg
 
Notice the oil:
IMG_2989_zpshoyrawvn.jpg
 
IMG_2990_zpsm3fjllvs.jpg
 
 
With the cover removed its clear to see the camshaft seal was leaking:
IMG_2991_zpsnc91amd2.jpg
 
Removing old seal:
IMG_3001_zpsjw52wlyr.jpg
 
IMG_3003_zps9logtqff.jpg
 
IMG_3004_zpssny5bhpy.jpg
 
Inserting new seal:
IMG_3005_zpseelif2ww.jpg
 
IMG_3006_zpslaeno11x.jpg
 
Both seals in and head cleaned:
IMG_3007_zps63xujciw.jpg
 
Front main seal:
IMG_3008_zpsijgzjxxu.jpg
 
IMG_3010_zpsdihvfgjx.jpg
 
Repainted the backing/cover plate with high heat paint:
IMG_3013_zpsnpgqdxez.jpg
 
Made a nice robo skull image:
IMG_2993_zpspc1zl1mc.jpg
 
Fitted:
IMG_3014_zpsdzmny7rf.jpg
 
Torquing cam sprocket bolts (47Nm if I recall?):
IMG_3047_zpszf7og8ri.jpg
 
 
New Toyota waterpump:
IMG_2976_zpsvtr0ijgv.jpg
 
All my money is disapearing, so I didn't buy the whole pump assembly. Reusing the old pump backing:
IMG_3015_zpsdnhqfazq.jpg
 
IMG_3016_zps2kkmfo5u.jpg
 
IMG_3017_zpscrcphf82.jpg
 
IMG_3018_zpspuqcpzr5.jpg
 
IMG_3019_zpsspikgh8m.jpg
 
 
I noticed that the water pipe which I cleaned up had started to rust slightly already, I must have rubbed off some anti corrosion coating? So cleaned it up again, primer and high heat black paint:
IMG_3046_zpss1iqtdg9.jpg
 
Vacuum caps for vacuum nips on ITB's (Going to get vac signal from T3 ITB adapter ports):
IMG_3040_zpsuwkttrme.jpg
 
IMG_3041_zpsrv1jw4wv.jpg?t=1467360640
 
 
Okay now for the main update. I managed to install the clutch hardline which runs from the front of the car to the rear. I knew it was going to be a pain and it was. Nothing too complicated but have to remove a number of components (Under body covers, E-brake adjuster/splitter mechanism, front chassis support, front sway bar mounts, fuel tank straps, front heater hoses). 
 
Lifted car in preparation:
IMG_3048_zps2xmijiun.jpg
 
The hydraulic line is split into two sections, one short section from the clutch master to the under body of the car, then a second section which connects to the first and then runs to the engine bay of the car.
This is the factory pass through hole for the clutch line:
IMG_3050_zpszseacyam.jpg
 
IMG_3051_zpsngiix3rh.jpg
 
Fitting the line was not really something that could be captured easily with photographs, plus there wasn't a lot of room under the car. For this reason I have only taken pics of mounting the clutch line to the existing brackets (luckily the auto brackets are the same as the manual ones, just with an extra space in the bracket. 
IMG_3052_zpsnhio4uvz.jpg
 
IMG_3053_zpsziqygcz0.jpg
 
IMG_3054_zpsm2jf3jru.jpg
 
IMG_3058_zpsfolvltdl.jpg
 
IMG_3059_zpsivrx0dvs.jpg
 
IMG_3068_zpskuaa3o3d.jpg
 
Here you can see the line came out very close to its proper position, it will be fine to bend it slightly to its final position:
IMG_3069_zpslub7kkvx.jpg
 
Front section of line, blue circle shows where lines connects into the clutch master cylinder (not yet installed):
IMG_3070_zpscnzjxfvq.jpg
 
 
Not the most interesting pictures, but it was literally just me spending 3-4 hours trying to thread the line through various obstacles, finding out it wasn't possible without removing certain parts and repeating. 
I'm glad its done though, probably the hardest part of a manual swap in an MR-2.
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A small update this time. 

 

I am swapping my tail lights for facelift ones. One of the issues associated with this is that the boot release lock is located behind the tail lights. Due to the different design of the lights the original lock is not usable if you install the newer facelift lights. 

 

Of course you can simply put in a facelift lock but then your original key won't work obviously. 

 

I thought I would try to re-pin the facelift lock using the pins/wafers from my original lock. To do this I went to a junk yard and found a facelift boot lock. 

 

Here are two pics showing the lock with facelift and pre-facelift lights.

 

Pre-facelift:

l0_zps11sppgfc.jpg

 

Facelift (Note that the lock now needs to protude much further because the light is now over it):

l1_zpsptzade09.jpg

 

 

 

Old lock on left, facelight on right (Tail piece actuator has already been removed from old lock in this pic):

IMG_3103_zpsm2xrlwta.jpg

 

In order to remove the barrel the front cover must be removed:

IMG_3104_zpsutpozpwn.jpg

 

IMG_3105_zpsp9dizal8.jpg

 

C clip holding actuator must also be removed:

IMG_3106_zps9r8s9au5.jpg

 

Now the barrel can be removed, to do so insert the key and pull it out (doesn't have to be the exact key for the lock):

IMG_3107_zpsp1phsf2h.jpg

 

IMG_3108_zpsaepr15dk.jpg

 

Original lock has a cover which was too difficult to remove with damaging, perhaps replacement cover can be found but I wont be using this lock anymore:

IMG_3109_zpsga8n3fky.jpg

 

IMG_3112_zpspg9bfhlm.jpg

 

Original on left, facelift on right (Note: facelift lock uses 7 pins while original uses 6 but still have the slot for 7th, at least on mine):

IMG_3113_zpspu3c4tiu.jpg

 

Key in original lock, notice that all the pins are pulled down into the core (flush) allowing it to spin in the barrel:

IMG_3114_zpsor0bur9h.jpg

 

Alternatively the same key placed in the facelift lock, see how one pin is not pulled down all the way. This prevents the core form rotating in the barrel:

IMG_3115_zps5wtexweg.jpg

 

Pic showing how key is inserted in pins/wafers:

IMG_3121_zpsqziba5zm.jpg?t=1467626588

 

Pins/wafers and springs removed from both locks, as mentioned before the original lock had 6 pins while facelift has 7:

IMG_3118_zpsyqd0gegk.jpg

 

Here are the pins/wafers from my original lock fitted to the facelift lock, make sure to remove the spring from any slot that is not being used or else it could come loose and jam everything.

Cleaned everything up too.

IMG_3119_zps9ywul6zo.jpg?t=1467626429

 

It works!

IMG_3120_zpsepujjiwg.jpg

 

 

Oh and why all this effort? 

 

Here are the original pre-facelift tail lights (sorry for shitty pics):

IMG_2444_zpscuneldel.jpg

 

 

And now the facelift ones:

IMG_2810_zpssb6oxywu.jpg

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Due to a lot of other commitments and admittedly a lack of motivation in these winter months, I have not made much progress on the MR-2

 

The lack of MR-2 related updates does allow me to mention a few things I've been doing on the side (which are still indirectly related to the project). 

 

First off I sold my M52b28 swapped E34. This was my first true project car in the sense that I did the engine swap myself and upgraded many parts. I was double minded about selling it, but at least I should have enough $$ to be able to complete the MR-2 project without being held up for monetary reasons now. 

 

Here are some pics of it:

IMG_1761_zpshtta8y13.jpg

 

DSC_0060_zpsv3j3im9e.jpg

 

IMG_2141_zpsrziih9m5.jpg

 

DSC_0069_zpsenzljvhg.jpg

 

DSC_0065_zpsng1mphbb.jpg

 

Anyway its gone to a new home now.

 

 

I also took some time to further disassemble the old 4AGE from the MR-2 (overheated engine). I took some photos during the process.

 

DSC_0010_01_zpsqhsarwbt.jpg

 

DSC_0011_01_zpsqusoc5wb.jpg

 

The surface rust spots are caused by water in the oil (due to head gasket failure):

DSC_0013_zpsm2emwohs.jpg

 

DSC_0017_zpszial6ltr.jpg

 

DSC_0034_zpsmwmdg8ew.jpg

 

DSC_0038_zpsrljhaz4p.jpg

 

DSC_0023_zpsjazliacf.jpg

 

DSC_0024_zps2fhw4vvb.jpg

 

DSC_0026_zps1to8yfxi.jpg

 

DSC_0032_zpsq2gqsbmg.jpg

 

Well that's it for this update.

 

By the way anyone know whats up with this page length, I thought it would have gone onto page two or even three by now. Getting seriously long..

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Sorry but the next few posts are just to reach 20 posts and get this thread onto page two, because this first page is too damn long. 

 

Sorry to admins for posting more than 5 pics in a post.

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