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Ash's A6 Carina Coupe (Lyfe)


kyteler

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7 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

I only mention it because I have seen some for sale (on diy autotune I think) that are even pointier than bike sprockets. 

Never used any of em myself so learning.

You could get one laser cut pretty easily.

 

Yeah I did think a push bike sprocket hanging out the side of the head would look pretty mad max haha

 

im trying to be a Jew to get the thing done and in haha

theres a place across from work that dose water/lazer and milling stuff on contract to manufacturing shops. 'Lmaybe I'll go over for a yarn at lunch

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On 3/24/2017 at 19:09, tortron said:

Yeah yeah nah. Grab a single speed sprocket. They are much thicker for 1/8" chain

The track ones have less of a ramp so you could trim them back a little and have flat top and bottom

Cheers for the suggestion, seems like that could work. Their cheap as well, $20-35

 

the only issue now is finding a 25t wheel made from steel.

all the ones I've found are alloy or Ti

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25 tooth is a bit big for a single speed/fixed rear sprocket

look for a bmx front sprocket, they run the same 1/8' chain and I think you will have some luck in steel

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EighthInch-Full-Cromoly-25t-Spline-Drive-Sprocket-Fixed-Gear-BMX-/191197248192?hash=item2c843e7ac0:g:01kAAOSwymxVJ6nZ

 

or hey, how bout this

http://www.bearingandengineering.co.nz/shop/POWER+TRANSMISSION+COMPONENTS/Sprockets/Taper+Lock+BS/12+x+25T+TLOCK+SPROCKET+-+1610.html

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  • 6 months later...
On 10/12/2017 at 10:26, Roman said:

You replaced the wheel bearing six times before thinking perhaps it's not the wheel bearing? :clown:

hahaha just giving you shit but thats pretty funny

Haha nah dw I feel like moron already

 

im my defence I redid the sliders.

 

weird though, both sides had thinner outer pads, like a lot thinner and aren't that old.

need to hook the calipers onto a compressor to pull the pistons out a see what's going on.

 

hoping it's not the change from dot4 to dot5.1 (not to be confused with dot5)

 

the guy at racebrakes AND motul BOTH said it'll be fine with a good bleed....

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  • 4 months later...

You do realise you've just conducted a more modern and expensive version of chicken wire, newspaper and filler, right?  It would probably work OK if you cut the rusted sections out, made replacement steel to fit the holes potentially panel-bonded it in then backed it with the glass.

 

I mean, it's neat buuuuuuuuuuuut, still think it's gonna rott tharrrrr

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On 2/17/2018 at 20:20, kyteler said:

You do realise you've just conducted a more modern and expensive version of chicken wire, newspaper and filler, right?  It would probably work OK if you cut the rusted sections out, made replacement steel to fit the holes potentially panel-bonded it in then backed it with the glass.

 

I mean, it's neat buuuuuuuuuuuut, still think it's gonna rott tharrrrr

As cool as it looks I haven't done it this way for that reason.

i would replace with steal if I had the time or skill, but I don't. That and I've got loads of carbon and epoxi so it's not a huge expense for me either.

ive painted it in black epoxi weather seal on the inside to protect the westsystem resin so should last a while. Outer will be filled and sprayed when I get round to respraying the car so no one will even know it's done that way

ill give the chicken wire method a google though as that sounds interesting haha

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1 hour ago, Mr Vapour said:

At least cut all the rust out. There is still raw Steel with active rust in that repair. Seal up up all you want it will keep rusting. 

You say you have no time. But you will end up doing it again in the future. Why do things twice. 

Fair call. But I haven't exactly finished yet have I

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