Ash Kelly barr Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 engine front... so the el cheapo 4ageo's bottom engine looked good. full rebuild etc seemed to good to be true, so I pulled the head off to have a look. first glance one of the pistons was far lower (8mm) below deck at TDC. others sitting flush I decided to pull the rod and piston out. turns out it was bent like a banana. however the bearing looked fine, had stated wearing threw the first layer but that could be because rod twisted so rod top end wasn't bending true...? With the bottom end seeming to never be opened aside from gaskets, I decided to take a punt on it and put a spare rod in there and new bearing from some spare pack of king bearings I had sitting there. While I was there I gave the bore a quick resurface with my $30 AliExpress bore honeing tool haha head needed a clean, to remove the blue paint and years of over due oil changes. so I picked up some oven cleaner and hit the wash world on Lincoln rd. once clean, I followed the advice of some old boys, some taking the piss, and some very serious. Going this far and the motor now costing less then $150 I went for it. Sand paper on a sheet of glass... much to my surprise, it worked fucking well. Took it down from 60 grit to 340 grit. ive put my straight edge on it and can't get the feeler gauge under it at all. decided I'll take another punt and run a TRD MLS head gasket haha. ive chucked some ARP head studs in there, and if it doesn't comp test well after a heat cycle I'll pull the head and put a standard copper ring HG in there. im sure it'll run, just no idea for how long haha be a good test of how home job you can go on a cheap motor. https://youtu.be/f5r6FV2D1kw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Kelly barr Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 Not sure what bent the rod. Pre ignition and over reving maybe? couple people have said maybe it's hydro locked? it sat for a while and the head gasket was mint, there wasn't any rust or difference in surface, so dont think it was water. someone suggested a cylinder flooded with fuel witch would seem like a reasonable answer?? see how goes, if it runs and lasts a month I'll be pissing my self with laughter. 6months of daily driving, and I'll be speachless and bragging of my hori engine building ways for years to come.. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Kelly barr Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Been away for work nearly 2 months, fly out again Wednesday. thought I'd make the most of time and fix the last narly bit of rust before it gets worse. my weldings pretty ammo and had some carbon and epoxi sitting around. might order some micro beads to fill the gap between uber and out skin. not sure what I'd need to do to prep for paint on top of that though.. will hit the inside with the black epoxi sealer I used on the inside 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 Swapped all the lights to LED. Brighter and less draw on they old alt. i didn't want modern bright white head lights so tried a 3000k colour (drivers side) but was far to yellow for my liking. opted for a 4300k colour on the passengers side. All off Ali pretty cheap, some less then a dollar each with free shipping. if anyone wants to buy the 3000k lights let me know, H4 fit waiting this twin head light adaptor kit and some new semi sealed head lights from oldscoolauto for the centre lights https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32808553308/32808553308.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted June 2, 2018 Author Share Posted June 2, 2018 So some months ago now I had the unfortunate luck of having an accident in the carina. Pulling out from from work across a gap, at the same time someone was pulling across from the opposite side behind the car I was waiting to pass. Damage wasn’t that bad, front left corner, bend fender, bonnet and bumper iron. Most unfortunate bit was the left hand indicator and plastic surround was smashed to bits. I’ve got full cover so lodged it with insurence for repair. After trying to source parts, negotiation etc etc we got the ball rolling. Thankfully, I’ve found a really good panel beater. Not cheap but super easy going and happy to cater to what ever situation. Body’s mostly been sanded back to bare metal. Then sprayed in an epoxi primer. All bolt on panels will be acid dipped. Bonnet and gaurds have been dipped already. When I get time from work I’ll pull the doors off and do the rear hatch too. Not so rustic now 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 Drove out to the storage unit today in the tractor and pulled to doors off. Hopefully get these and the rear hatch acid dipped over the next week and start getting into epoxi primer. once that’s done, it’s painting the door jams and hatch jams in 2k black. Bolting panels on and taking it back to the panel beaters for panel and respray exciting! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 Progress. doors and hatch to do, then start laying paint 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted August 26, 2019 Author Share Posted August 26, 2019 Slowly getting less rustic 2k black for the door jams Plan is 1k black base, 1k colour then a hardened clear over the top 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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