Ashkellybarr

Ash's 82 AA60 rina of rustic glory

65 posts in this topic

Picked up a AA60 coupe.

Girl friend promptly named it something girly ha

It's pretty dam tidy with very little rust.

I made s point of pulling plait off to feel around and it's pretty sweet.

Motor runs mint, clutch would have been done not long ago, interia all there and good con, coupe little strainers here and there.

Full digital dash :D

3A

T50 (22 spline I'm told)

Small axel

One very open diff

And a truck ton of body roll.

Will be left standard for a while.

Plans of SSR mk3's

New fixed shock and spring combo all round to get it low and stiff

Lock diff or LSD

And swap the 4agze out of my aw11 into it once the 7A finally goes in

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52439-ashs-a6-carina-coupe-lyfe/

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Took it to beach hop, runs well

3A definitely didn't cut it up the hills.

More I drive it the more I want to keep it oldschool, thinking how I can get the 4agze in there and keep it looking factory..

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Posting for reference

"n carina you can use ae86 castor arms.

Cressida or ma61 rcas.

Switching to ps steering arms quickens steering and more lock.

I've got rose joints in panhard but rubber for 4 links.

Traction brackets are a must. Otherwise1st and 2nd gear are useless."

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Possibly why I was passing new cars threw the hills in Coro

Would like to know some history on it if anyone who's anything at all..

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Mmm yummy

Bleed the whole system, came out blackish brown, kinda like bourbon shits

Used AP road and track from race brakes.

It's 5.1 but apparently it's just a really good dot4.

I still made sure to flush the crap out of the system to make just incase.

Pulls up good now

Got given a t50 22sp short shifter from a mate at work too.

Didn't get time to take measurements of the springs and shocks unfortunately.

Developing an oil leak, was hoping it was dizzy (dizzys down the back on a 3A) buts it looking more like a rear main seal.. Bugger

ect on the list..

Drive belt

Fuel filter

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Fuel filter and drive belt done.

Just need to clean the carb and set the idle a smidge higher

Figured out why the AC isn't that cold.. Because there's not belt or tensionisor for it

So will pull all the AC junk out witch will remove some weight.

Full twin head light conversation is sitting ready to go on

Sorry roman, not trying make it like yours, I just think they look miles better

Have a standard diff sitting ready to be welded

Possibly try find a smaller ratio CWP for it

Can start on sorting springs/shocks and arms now once I find some time from working

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Twinning

Outer brackets are different so I had to drill 5 spot welds on each side to put the twin outer months on

Just put bolts through the spot welds for the time being until I get some time to lines it all up properly.

Gonna need to space the inside head light mounts as they sit in like its cross eyed.

Probably use some TV wall mount bracket spacers.

And of course wire it up. Thinking I might get some multi pin plugs so I can wiring them up so its one plug and wire the single ones onto a plug as well so if I decide to change back I can simple just unplug it at one point and plug the single plugs back on

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Brakes are gonna be tight!

Fronts sorted, just need to find some time

Just need rear shocks n springs. Fixed but will get a shock insert with adjustment

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So a bit of a change of plans.

I figure if the supercharged motors going in then to keep it all legit I'll haft to cert it.

So I might as well put adjustable suspension in on all corners so down the line it makes it easy, rather then certing with just fronts and having to re cert if I wanted to change later on.

So I'm on the hunt for some used AE86 rear adjustables

On the boost front I really really do like the supercharger, 4agze drives awesome with the torque.

But with replacement or upgrading one down the line. Sc12's are still some what cheap but most have loads of KM's and tired rotor coatings.

And upgrading to something like this..

http://www.lysholm.us/_1600ax.php

It's not really cost worthy for the gain.

I looked at one of these to put on the 7AGE in the AW but with a price tag of over 2800 if remember rightly and struggling to get 350hp staying turbo seem'd a better option.

So I saying all this the 4agze going into the Rina will now be a 4agte

mate sorted me out with a near new garrett GT25 AR80 for a box of beer so I'm pretty happy with that.

Came in on his ps13 and was replaced by the previous owner in jap not long before it was exported to NZ and has only a smidge of play side to side

Small turbo, but I want it to be there straight away, and running OEM ECU I can only run up to 14psi before the injectors lean out so a big turbos pointless unless I went to a standalone witch I won't for a long time.

For the manifold I'll use one of these cheap things to get it running and cert'd.

http://drivenperformance.co.nz/products-page/exhaust/toyota-4age-4agte-turbo-manifold-16v-rwd-cast/

And maybe make my own manifold later down the track and use a t25-t28 flange so I can go to a gt28 later on if I wish

On anouther note.

I didn't realise that the original head lights are seal'd beams, of witch they crapped them selfs pretty quick and I was left with no head lights.

Good bloke by the name of clint sent up some with fitting to change to conventional lamps.

Wahoo! I have head lights again!

Sitting on spittys at the moment

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That's better.

Cut a coil and a half of the springs then used my gas torch to bend the top half coil down so it sits flat

Got autoline to shorten the shocks 35mm ($55 a side)

Got new inserts as well as they were pretty nackered.

Handles far better now. Turns in more responsively and its not to stiff.

I did think about going lower but would have had to spend a lot more on inserts to match the higher spring rate.

Since I'll go to coilovers at some point the money can be used else where.

That and it is actually pretty low, maybe it's just the 13's don't fill the guards but I like the 13's as the car picks up well with the smaller radius while it's only got the 3A in it

Drifts better, just need to lower and stiffen up the rear as the rear is now more floaty then the front.

The list to date:

Indicator relay

New tires (Achilles 122 185/60/r13)

Lower rear with new telescopic shocks

Pull plastic's out and roll guards, sort any sill/pillar rust out

Then re-do all the under body seal

New carpet

Possibly new rear demister

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Bit of maintenance today.

Drivers door handles return springs less is elasticity and kept getting stuck up.

And they wouldn't close or lock unless I gave it a couple love taps.

Pulled it off and had a look. Used multi grips the press the pin out.

I ended up finding a clip that was perfect.

Clips actually from a down light. Cut it and bent to where I needed.

Bit of tak2 lube and it works mint.

Next on the list was the indicator relay. Cheer to roman for pointing me in the right direction had a relay from j car for $20.

Plug was a bit different so I pulled the spade clips out of the plug and gave them some heat shrink.

I used a mate nail polish to colour code the space bits with the in/out puts and earth on the relay.

Added some photos of interior as it's pretty mint. Looks to have had a cell holder mounted at some point witch is a let down but aside from that it's near new

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In other news I may have a spare 7afe in witch I'll sell the 4agze short block to fund some rods and I can put a spare set of gze Pistons in it.

Means I can cert with 7agte, but I'm also seriously considering a j160 with the SQ engineering adaptor.

I may have a LSD diff on the way.

We'll see

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Tightened up the bearings and new rack arms and ends.

Should get it set good.

Want to change the rack bushes to poly at some point.

And find some where/one that can tighten up the rack pinion for me.

Have adjustable oanhard on back order and possible rear sway bar (just need to double check front)

Other goodies on the way as well and some snazzy bits I'm pretty stoked with

Big ups to autoline Henderson

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Wheel alignment from the good bloke at Wairau wheel alignment.

3.15' caster

0.2 toe out

Turns in nice and super responsive.

Bit heavier but meh

Most caster I could get from the standard rods.

Could take them out and thread them more but I'm happy with it for now

Wheel bearings are giving a bit of grief. Tightened them up and the grease caps leaking and throwen grease all threw the centre caps.

Front rights squealing and the grease has gone hard and black so think it's shot.

Will repack them next weekend..

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Some good news! I've found complete front AA60 strut assembly's! Wahoo!

So I can get these jacked up rona struts out and get it to cosure hight

In the build side progress is good

Picked up a mint J160 with a short shifter

Small port head, ITB's with RWD linkage

Mold for a carbon intake plenum is nearly done.

I've got some forged 7A rods and several sets of 4agze Pistons

I'll haft to see how much gets skimmed off the head and the block before choosing witch Pistons as I've got 8:1 and 8.9:1, but the 7A setup means thoughts Pistons ended up giving higher comp anyway

Something closer to 10:1 would be cool.

High, but it's not meant to be a big boost build, more a responsive motor with usable power, with a little turbo just for a bit more kick.

If it cracks 200hp if be happy as

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Picked up the new front strut assembly's Friday and swapped the springs and shorter inserts over.

Pulled the other hub off the other strut (the one that didn't explode)

Looking at the bearings between them, the one that let lose and the one that was still sweet, there's a huge size difference.

The one that destroyed the hub being over twice the size.

The chase had be pressed up onto the spindle and flared out.

So I'm wondering if someone's put the wrong size bearing in there and when I've tweaked it up its gone to far up the spindle, and the bearing was set correctly but the chase was pressed on and caused friction witch is why the grease deteriorated then the bearing ate the hub as it was just metal on metal??

IDK but I'll fucking sure to get the right size and do both the new struts when I put them in.

I had to cut the chase off the spindle witch wasn't to bad a job and I managed to do it well without nicking the spindle. The area the chase sits on is pretty rough where it welded it self on.

I'm wondering if I could get someone to machine it nice again and then I can turn these struts into coilovers.

Had intentions of giving the body some love but working 6-7 days a week is making it hard to get any longer jobs done that involve putting the car on stands. Hopefully I'll get some time free before we head into Christmas and I get swamped with work again

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