Popular Post johnny.race Posted March 9, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) Shedrat Engine plate construction RB Chrysler/A833 in Hilux chassis Front sparkplug behind front axle CL Fabricated rear torsion mount and crossmember Diff works Co owner and assistant Edited August 20, 2017 by johnny.race Fuckin PBkt 36 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post johnny.race Posted March 9, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 9, 2016 Cleaning the shed floor during her apprenticeship 40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post johnny.race Posted May 4, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 4, 2016 Ahh - finally! 8 or more weeks ago I ordered some axles. Took the long way to get them to NZ by using surface freight instead of air. Worked out cheaper this way for me. They still cost me close to $600 kiwi (each) when all was said and done. They are beauties though. Currie 1541H 35 Spline Big Bearing. I ordered special HD retainers to allow me to run a fabricated disc brake system. I have chosen to run this size of stuff due to owning a couple of Strange Nodular Iron race heads left over from previous times. I was going to sell them then thought wtf - run them. I work with Hilux axles most weeks. This is the difference between the two. I considered making my own but the challenge was finding a suitable core. Its hard trying to locate a shaft big enuff to take 35 Splines that is not attached to a big fuck off truck hub at the other end. The problem with this is that by the time you turn it down to a car size you are in the soft portion of the axle - so ya fucked. Anyway ... progress. 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted June 18, 2016 Author Share Posted June 18, 2016 Nominal mate, thanks for the info awhile back re schedule line pipe and threaded rod. I pulled out the bits and pieces I have been collecting today and had a go running a tap up up the pipe. Did one and it turned out ok. Ya can't do it under power eh unless you are friggin coordinated, lol! This was my experience anyway. 1" UNF is big stuff eh? I have to make a jig up that will hold everything in alignment so i get consistent results with everything. There is a pic above of my pig and a motor. I sold it this week. (the motor not my pig) As part of the deal I take possession of a 500ci RB bracket engine. Will suit this car wayyy better for my intended use. Things are moving again! Churr. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post johnny.race Posted July 4, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 4, 2016 Took possession of my new donk the other weekend. Acquired this as part of the deal I did on the Hemi engine. It was on TM under Listing #: 1095158136 This will work way better for me than the other motor ... simpler, cheaper and should not break my ching ching gearbox. Bring back the old days I say ... 4BBL's, 4 speeds and 4.11 geared arse ends. 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 Its been years. See the other pics have been deleted. Dunno where i was up to or what has been lost. I am a shit poster anyway but am back into the black car. So I will just stick stuff up as it happens and call it done. So in no particular order ... Basically Shedrat'is a bigblockpoweredstickcarthatdontshine. He's based on the iconic shape of a 40's Willys Coupe. His chassis is a YN57 2WD Hilux item that has been fucked around with. Long story short - the stock frontend has been used, the arse has been chopped off and replaced with a fabricated item. The drivetrain consists of a Chrysler RB engine, a A833 4 Speed and a 9 inch Ford differential. The car is destined for the street but has smatterings' of race bred bit's and pieces due to me wanting to use up items left over from a drag race effort. So you'll see 35 Spline Axles, MSD7 and Roller this and that, but no sign of any chromoly. Brickshithouse construction mentality rules in my shed too. Fuck the added weight. This is a no frills effort that won't shine. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post johnny.race Posted March 2, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 2, 2018 The engine has been set back in the chassis approximately 'heaps' mm's. Lol! Fucked if i know without going out to measure. But the front spark plug of the engine is sitting somewhere around 100mm (probably a little shorter) behind the front axle CL. This effectively shunts the gearbox back heaps too. It also means the OEM torsion bar adjustment mechanisms fouled on the newly positioned manual gearbox. Faced with the decision to either convert to coil over or modify the existing setup - the existing setup won out due to it costing nothing but time. But farrrk!!! What a balls aching job. Everything's on angles and I ended up having to fabricate near everything. The original adjusters were originally closer to the driveshaft. They have been swapped out for a pair of KUN26 ones, then plates made to allow them to be mounted close to the chassis rail. See pics. All this equals heaps of room to allow a big inch MoPar to monster the inside of a Lux chassis. 12 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post johnny.race Posted March 2, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 2, 2018 In a further effort to save dosh, I am using OEM Surf suspension bushes. A combination of line pipe, 1" threaded rod, the afore mentioned bushes and an accurate little jig will see it get done. Still tossing up on whether to go triangulated 4 link or try a 3 Link. Wanted to get this part right. Used a machinists level and some bright round, lol! Probably the only straight bit of engineering in the whole build, haha! 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted April 6, 2018 Author Share Posted April 6, 2018 The jig to align the 4 link bars. Its built to do both ends. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted April 6, 2018 Author Share Posted April 6, 2018 Thanks Nominal for giving me the pointers re how to go about things in this department. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted April 6, 2018 Author Share Posted April 6, 2018 Bottom bars done. The top ones are going to be a cunt to position in correct alignment. Everything's on angles. My sins are going to catchup with me, lol. Bring it. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post johnny.race Posted April 23, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 23, 2018 Started on the top bars. Have noticed that 90% of fabbed triangulated 4 links out there are set up opposite to the way I am doing mine. The bars are closer together at the diff end and spread out on the chassis end. Mine is opposite, hmmm. Fuck, hope they work this way also, lol. Spent a bit of time trying to nut out how to go about doing the top bars without going through the balls aching process of making bracket after bracket until something eventually fits. Came up with this. This can virtually replicate any position you want to hang a bar off a diff and then be measured in order to make the final bracket. The piece of turned bright round (the rusty bright round, lol!) is the same width as the rod end bush I am using. Bracket in use. New bracket measured, made and in place. Sometimes I am sooo fucking clever!! Bar made and fitted at diff end. Sounds easy and quick ... but its not. That or i am freaky sloww. Probably the later. Anyway - progress. 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted May 1, 2018 Author Share Posted May 1, 2018 Finished the 4 link setup. Finished the main parts anyway. Still have to do a myriad of little stuff in support like spacers and drilling the inspection holes in the bars to satisfy cert requirements etc. It took me near a couple of days getting the last bar plates to mirror the other side. Fuckin did it though. What a pain. Parallel 4 links are way easier to get right. These fuckers though ... I put a level over both the tops and both bottom bars to see how close everything ended up. Used a machinists level. The bottom pair came in dognuts' on. The top ones a little out but fuck all. Lifted one side of the level a mil or less and it was smack on. So swapped the level for a normal one and you could not tell the difference, lol. Good enuff. I am please with how these turned out. The geometry for this set of bars is pretty on the money also. I used CAD to draw everything out and gave enough holes to give me a couple of IC's below, on and above the neutral line. At (planned) ride height both top and bottom bars sit level to the earth with an IC that meets at infinity. So I should be able to ball park where a short wheelbase BB car likes to sit. Next step is to locate then fab the panhard bar. Lateral location is important to me (lol) so much so i have forsaken using freebie Toyota Surf suspension bushing ends and elected to go with something less compromising in the form of CMrod ends. Using 3/4" rod ends in conjunction with some Schedule 160 Line Pipe. Not quite sure on where/how its all going to fit in there. Need to make sure there is room for the gasoline tank in there somewhere also. Next task after the panhard bar is gasoline tank installation. This can be a place where i can get into trouble too. The bum shape on a Willys goes freaky shallow/low real quick and my tank is tallish. I want it low but not low low so it looks like a drop tank. All good shit for BB 4BBL cars that are built for economy and grocery shopping. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post johnny.race Posted May 8, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 8, 2018 Located and measured up where I wanted the chassis end of the bar to sit. I ended up with it sitting aligned to the axles. Drew it up and cut it out. I blow undersized holes through using plasma but finish them to size on the mill. Want your panhard bar running parallel to the diff and at axle height, but you have big chassis kickup in the arse of your car? Then you end up making big arse brackets like these. They turned out alright but they are imposing. I built in plenty of gusset in order to brace against the direction the force is going to come. Not in the pic - but i intend to run a piece of small diameter pipe to gusset/brace the rear facing face of the bracket to the chassis. Triangulate. I included a 5mm spacer plate in order to tighten everything up. I used a 50mm x 50mm piece of box as part of the panhard bracket hanging off the chassis. The cross section width of the 3/4" rod end is 45mm. Turned up spacers to center the shocks. Direct threaded the panhard bar to take the rod end. Need to do the diff end next. 10 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 Made this for the diff end. It turned out alright. It positions the bar parallel and level to the axle center line. There is a fair bit of work hanging these things where you want them to hang. Got a sway bar from of an AU Coon' (I think it was) It looks like it might fit like a bought one. I am going to fit a head and axles into the diff soon. I might revisit this sway bar fit up once the head is in place in order to see if there is room. Next thing to fit are a couple of chassis K members. These will allow the gearbox cross member to be attached to something once final engine position is determined. I am working towards fitting the body soon. This will allow final engine position to be determined. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post johnny.race Posted May 12, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 12, 2018 The plan after the K members are fitted is to assemble the diff enuff in order to fit wheels to the rear. After this the body is going to be fitted over the chassis in order to measure for the outer sill rails, position fuel tank, rear bumper fit up, and to position the engine. Then the body will come off. The fitting of the body will represent a milestone for me. I pulled out the diff bits and pieces today in readiness for fit up. I like this shit. This is not the head I will be tooling around the street with. If you are into 9"'s then the following will mean something to you. If you aren't then its just blurb. Anyway; Strange Pro Nod iron 3.250 Case, Strange 35 Spline Spool, Daytona Pinion Support, Richmond 5.14:1 Ring, 1350 UJ. Timkin Set20, HD Retainers, Currie Ent. There is a reason you run the 3.250 Case or bigger. Check out the size of the pinion support. This is the head casing I use for aligning diff's to gearbox. It came out of a bro's 9 sec car. It let go after years of being behind a trans brake. It took everything else out with it too. Not fit for use anymore but ok for alignment jigging. Check out the size of the OEM pinion support compared to the race spec one above. Alot of dudes swear by the 9" while others swear at them, lol! Bought some of those blank rotors from off TM. Drilled them to suit the axles I am using. They are dognuts on the same spec as 90's/00's Commodores. Plan on using these in conjunction with FXGT AE92 rear calipers so I can utilize the handbrake feature.. 11 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post johnny.race Posted May 16, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 16, 2018 Praying Mantis Finished these. Hope those AE92 Calipers fit without hitting the top arm. Initial look/see indicates it might be close. Big bum. Everything seems to fit ok but its early daze, lol! Fuck, I hope I don't come across something that fucking daze's me out, haha! Ride the Serpent Reached milestone. Now need to do some measuring, visualizing and planning re how to go about future stages. Happy with stuff though. 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post johnny.race Posted February 19, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 19, 2019 I have done some more on my Hotrod. I fabbed brackets to locate and secure the fuel cell, fuel pump, fuel filter and battery. Can you say Swiss cheese? Lol. Then I populated it. Next task is to mount the rear brake calipers and maybe the rear swaybar. 18 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted December 11, 2021 Author Share Posted December 11, 2021 This build ceased and the car sold. Lack of motivation/time and changing interests being the culprits. Yet another notch in the bedhead of broken dreams (I pinched these words from @sluggy) Life goes on. Cheers. 1 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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