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Daves new school holden shambles. (Turbo'd and getting ready for drag day)


Muncie

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Successfully failed WOF because i had a fricken Turbo still fitted..... long story short aliexpress VBands were random diameter  so didn't fit manifold or turbo so that sucks.

Wof guy happy to see as is no issues with my work just wants some extra heat wrap on crossover pipe and obviously turbo and intercooler absent from engine bay for recheck.

Might go buy some Moreys to help nurse through to drag day.

 

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So......... what does it cost to rebore a v6 out next size? Now ive had a taste of turning the wick up i want more so will start looking at throwing new pistons at my spare supercharged block and getting it in.

Im not kidding myself this thing is gonna blow up at some stage.

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11 hours ago, Alfashark said:

Is this a 3.8 or the 3.6?

Autodelta took the alloytec 3.2 (same core as the 3.6) to over 4L in one of their Alfa 159 projects.

Just mean a rebore 20-30 thou over im so old i don't know the metric equivalent. My other block has scored bores it needs new pistons so may as well machine out fit new stock ones open ring gaps up a bit 500hp + on an L67 is apparently no issue all the cool kids in Oz are doing it. 

It's the 3.8. Alloytecs are a very different beast i bought one and pulled it down decided not to go ahead with it.

way to complicated and the stock ECU'S aren't reliable or well supported which would of meant needing a $3k ecu to run it and then the rest of the car would throw a fit. Be very cool though outside my skill set and budget for what I want.

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More displacement will just turn your drivetrain into a noodle by loading it up with low rpm torque.

Maybe a little bigger cam, bit more boost will acheive same thing easier?

There's so many headaches associated with engine machining work, that can often go wrong even if you get the best people involved. 

I reckon there's bound to be a sweet spot for you with factoryish block and the right bolt on stuff. 

Do you have any guesstimates for drag day time / MPH / etc? 

I think I'll be somewhere in the 14s on first shakedown and with standard cams. (assuming I make it)

 

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1 hour ago, cletus said:

A rebore is not going to make much if anything of a power increase on its own 

 

The real power increase is the fact you can lean on it harder with non cheese pistons, correct ring gaps etc 

Though if he goes to L67 pistons vs the ecotec Na pistons he's looking at lower compression think its 8.5:1 vs 9.5:1

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Next engine is a simple combo based on the supercharged L67 block it needs a rebore due to some scored bores so new maybe forged pistons and rebore, then run the ecotec heads. Throw some arp hardware at it l67 has good rods already, did think about forged bottom end but I can't afford a 700hp capable drivetrain anyway so why bother.

Will use the best of the factory gear for this one and lean on it.

 

 

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Seems some of ya got wrong end of stick im not building a stroker just a freshened up supercharged bottom end with ecotec heads think it came across wrong.

This has been a cheap build really a turbo Barra would have cost me way more and i wouldn't have learnt anywhere near as much as everything is off the shelf.

Main goal was to freshen up on my fabrication skills and learn some tuning on a inexpensive engine.

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Yeah I've been watching Corn fed boosts channel and RK Garage and have been pestering them both on the pcmhacking.net forum hence my car runs with a bit of help from Rhys from RK Garage.

This has turned a into a bit of 'a word from my sponsors' 

HP Academy was a great help too getting my head around the tuning side. Haha as everyone says yeah its just fuel and timing which is true but changing those in a stock PCM is bit harder.

Then there's all the other cool shit you can mess with like traction control etc.

 

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Been digging deeper into the PCM and have started tuning the Transmission which shifts almost DSG like now smooth but quickly it's not harsh hopefully this cuts down on heat generation when it's balls out on track.

Also ran some logs and adjusted timing in 2 spots where it was detecting knock and pulling timing for a split second with that done it goes great even on just 6psi. Pulled 10% fuel out below 3000rpm 400mg/c which it loved! And hopefully improves fuel economy.

Mucked around with traction control so it doesn't do the big belly flop instead it now just retries for traction carries on till it finds it which should soften the driveline impact it used to have and allow it to power on through.

Think oil pressure may be dropping off  little so next job is to put a gauge on and if necessary shim the relief valve.

*edit think ive finally hit the peak of my bell curve learning where it takes me ages to learn new things then I shift into get shit done mode and everything happens quickly and takes little effort. am I ADHD probably......

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On 09/11/2024 at 11:58, Roman said:

More displacement will just turn your drivetrain into a noodle by loading it up with low rpm torque.

Maybe a little bigger cam, bit more boost will acheive same thing easier?

There's so many headaches associated with engine machining work, that can often go wrong even if you get the best people involved. 

I reckon there's bound to be a sweet spot for you with factoryish block and the right bolt on stuff. 

Do you have any guesstimates for drag day time / MPH / etc? 

I think I'll be somewhere in the 14s on first shakedown and with standard cams. (assuming I make it)

 

I'm going to say same as you 14s easy 100mph plus easily I've tried using Torque Pro app a few times and aborting run at 200kph due to a corner coming pant shittingly fast. 

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