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Posted

I pulled the heads off a while back on the l67 have come to conclusion..... its fucked heads are full of cracks and bores are scratched to shit looks like someone pushed on with a skid when it was clearly starting to seize.

I'm tossing up throwing a set of good rods and forged pistons at the bottom end some ecotec heads as I don't need the injectors in the ports anymore.

Or.......... fitting a honda k24 and not wasting my money on the buick the turbo ive bought would be excellent.

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Posted

The poor neglected thing hasn't had a tank of gas for 6 months wof ran out march.

Will drive it around and get the fuel tank emptied get the new fuel pump fitted and think more about an engine swap everything ive bought so far bar the head gaskets will work well on another engine.

Hmm what would the purists think of this combo.

Just spitballing but would give me everything I want.

images (1) (12).jpeg

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Posted
2 hours ago, GARDRB said:

It's cool and all, but what would it be like off boost?

 

Probably no worse than an Accord a high stall converter would liven it up.

Have had a Type S CL7 Accord a few years back stock it was awesome.

Ive gotta remember I'm 40+ now so I'll 90% of the time just be cruising around so peaky kinda suits my needs lazy normal driving and on boost like a bottle rocket would work.

Posted
47 minutes ago, Muncie said:

If it wasn't for price of petrol there'd already be one in the garage.

 

I don't understand, you haven't driven it for months and you are worried about the price of petrol?

If you want an economy car buy a Yaris.

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Posted
1 hour ago, Muncie said:

If it wasn't for price of petrol there'd already be one in the garage.

 

The big Ford Territory SUV with the Non turbo Barra do like 10.2L per 100km for the 2016 model

Posted
1 hour ago, Nominal said:

I don't understand, you haven't driven it for months and you are worried about the price of petrol?

If you want an economy car buy a Yaris.

Engine has so much endfloat the crank angle sensor sometimes struggles to find a signal if I brake too hard. I drive it but nowhere getting out and booting the harmonic balancer back in would cause issues/road rage.

Posted

Barra is a fucking fantastic engine but it is huge and capable of making more power than my licence can handle,

And there is already a  Barradore on the forum that's going to be way more epic than I could hope to build.

If I can build something that makes good reliable power that doesn't destroy gearboxes and diffs that would be ace.

 

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Posted
On 25/06/2022 at 22:37, Muncie said:

Probably no worse than an Accord a high stall converter would liven it up.

Have had a Type S CL7 Accord a few years back stock it was awesome.

Ive gotta remember I'm 40+ now so I'll 90% of the time just be cruising around so peaky kinda suits my needs lazy normal driving and on boost like a bottle rocket would work.

In that case I vote do it

Posted
On 26/06/2022 at 09:56, Nominal said:

 

If you want an economy car buy a Echo and 1nzfe swap it

Thought about the possible look on Cletus face if a k24 or 1nzfe swapped commodore got booked in for cert.

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Posted

How much do these weigh? 

Find this information for me, and I'll send you back some dataz on predictions for how each version of the car will run :D 

With an NA K24, turbo K24, NA 1NZ, turbo 1NZ 


image.thumb.png.6c999ff4215420fcbc3b5f3d39644861.png

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Posted

If you're planning on using the 4 speed auto it's going to be pretty punishing with that 1st to 2nd gear gap. 

Also the final drive ratio in the 3.something is going to reaaaalllllyyy kill a smaller motor. 

Are there any options in the high 3 or low 4 to 1 region for final drive? 

Posted

I love how the first sniff of a 1nz conversion and DaveScience is in there with the maths. 

I heartedly approve.  #1nztheworld #morerevs

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Posted

@Roman was joking about a 1nz swap....

I'd definitely do new crown wheel and pinion anyway whatever engine goes in as that was always on cards easily available new and fairly cheap.

Would give any transmission a go if it bolted up fairly easily. If the 6 stays in I'll keep the 4 speed just because it works.

Hmm 

For shits and giggles though give me the 1nz numbers for "educational purposes"

GM 4L60E 4-speed Automatic Transmission

First: 3.06
Second: 1.63
Third: 1.00
Fourth: 0.70

Final drive currently 3.08 could be anything in future.

Curb weight 1522kg

Sedan      Wagon     One Tonner
Wheelbase (mm):                 2788       2938        3200
Front track (mm):               1569       1569        1569
Rear track (mm):                1587       1587        1597
Overall length (mm):            4891       5046        5230
Overall width (mirrors) (mm):   1842       1847        2047
Overall height (mm):            1450       1545        1507
Ground Clearance (mm):           150        153         132

Wheels and tyres

Are 245/40/19 

Coefficient of drag 0.319

Posted

Yeah your car is literally twice as heavy as anything that suits a 1.5 litre engine hahaha. 
But cos it's a laugh, here we are. 

Alright so this is all of the above data, no weights changed but just engines swapped. 
Still auto trans and a 3.3 final drive. 

NA 1NZFE, since this is the least suitable option I'm assuming it's doorty so 160hp @ 8000rpm with 9000 limiter. 
Turbo 1NZFE 300hp @ 8000, 9000rpm limit 
NA K24A is the best standard power version, 204hp 7600 limiter
Turbo K24A is 300hp @ 7000rpm 7600 limiter

image.thumb.png.a0a89ce5e15d40742041b80d00c46025.png

If you want to try any of these numbers a bit different, let me know 

image.png.cf7f2b149753950c05f234f77ca4e814.png

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Posted

My best 1/4 with boost wound up on an L67 3.8v6 was 15.1 

It's extremely sad that a 1nzfe (in theory) could probably push the same car faster.

 

Fuck......

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