Daves new school holden shambles. Think i need a cert......

[kpr]

re cam timing.  as roman says.      Just remember the exhaust cam does the opposite and to less effect.  retarding exhaust will gain midrange,   advancing  will gain top end.     So since your cam is stuck together you results will vary. 

Also, the  exhaust cam can be a little weird,  dont have to go as far either way  for it to loose power everywhere.    Is more of a happy spot where it will work everywhere, with a bit of a window either side for some small gains either way. then will eat shit everywhere if go too far.     
 

So moral of the story  you cant really go full ham 40deg  to move the power curve  a lot,  with a single cam.    I assume the single cam world, is where  the whole "only move it a few degrees"   or "has to be dialed into the nearest degree"  comes from 

If you can adjust it in the car.  i would set it to factory.  then try 5 deg either way  at later date 

[Muncie]

Cool, I prefer the no win plus no loss scenario leaving it stock timing offers for now. Probably better suited to when changing cam.

I can change it in car its just a bit of a dog to do.

Avoiding scope creep at moment is hard but necessary.

[Muncie]

And I've got a long block again changed the front cam bearing after doing that decided to leave rest alone front was a bit chewed up from cam been fed through it roughly at some stage.

With that done I was able to set up the timing gear bit of headscratching read the instructions it all worked out. 

Can drop lifters and pushrods in tomorrow after that its oil pump bolt ons etc its ready to go in waiting on some some stuff from states but wont stop engine going in.

Can confirm it has a heap of compression too which im over moon about

 

[Muncie]

Oil drain always weeped i welded it on the car and had a void on the back side of weld. This is one of my better aluminium welds I didn't fuck the threads up or the sealing face either im somewhat chuffed about that.

Had to use this sump off original engine as it has two extra bell housing bolts in it that match my transmission and without it leaves a massive void uncovered for shit to get in.

[RUNAMUCK]

Is that wing fully full of oil under normal operation? Oil return lines need to be plumbed in above the oil level in order to drain back properly.

[Muncie]

Nah its normally below it turbo v6 thing everyone puts them there to be fair not many other places you could put it with pipework wiring serpentine belts etc.

It not given me any issues turbo is roller bearing anyway so doesn't use a heap of oil......... only issue i had with turbo was bearing material blocking up feed line.

15 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Is that wing fully full of oil under normal operation? Oil return lines need to be plumbed in above the oil level in order to drain back properly.

 

[Muncie]

My order from ZZ PERFORMANCE arrived in record time was due Thursday so I've just scraped back 2 days I may actually get this thing in before weekend 

Special cam chain damper to work with the dual row timing chain so cam timing should be on point! And bloody stay there no no sag no stretch for a long time.

Valve train is in LS Lifters fitted to help it rev past 6k PCM is limited to 6350 rpm at this stage anyway so if i figure out how to raise that the gear is already in there.

Polished alloy rocker covers too these were a want more than need they look damn nice though.

 

 

[Roman]

It's crazy how much more compact that looks than DOHC heads haha. 

Is that a 90 deg v6? or a 60 

Looks wide in that last pic 

[Muncie]

@Roman its a 90 degree v. Here's some other stats, 

The increase of 0.030 inches (or 0.762 mm) is added to the standard bore:

New Bore: 97.0 mm + 0.762 mm = 97.762 mm (or 3.849 inches) 

The stock stroke is approximately 3.4 inches (86.4 mm).

Using the engine displacement formula (Bore² x Stroke x π / 4 x Number of cylinders):

The new total displacement is approximately 3,856 cc (cubic centimetres) or 3.856 L. 

So she's now a real 3.8!

[Muncie]

On the right angle with one eye closed and safety squints it has a big block look to it

[Roman]

Ah yep so a 90 deg V as I'm guessing its largely same architecture as the V8? 

Does this have two rods on a single journal on the crank? 

 

[tortron]

They are basically identical to the 1960s buick small block 350 just with 2 cylinders removed, cylinder spacing etc is the same.

 

 

Why try improve on perfection?😆

[Muncie]

All ready to sling back in would of been done to today......... Muncies Chop shop had to do an exhaust on a ute first.

And my ARP flexplate bolts started snapping lucky save one spiral fractured so I was able to just unwind it out we found the torque for those on the internet as they are a general purpose bolt think we over did them last time.

12 bucks from allfast got me some 12.9 cap screws I just red loctited those suckers and swung as hard as I could with an Allen key.

 

[Muncie]

5 hours ago, Roman said:

Ah yep so a 90 deg V as I'm guessing its largely same architecture as the V8? 

Does this have two rods on a single journal on the crank? 

 

The rods aren't side by side there is a small divider and slightly offset too unsure why myself.

[Nominal]

It's a built-in weak point for too much boost

 

[Roman]

Must be like that to keep an evenly spaced firing order with a 90 deg v6. 

Otherwise would vibrate like crazy (I think)

[Muncie]

Steps 1 through 200 no photo's, im now dying of dehydration and exhaustion.

Wanted this to be a video but just realised I left the starter out to do the flexplate bolts....... then fitted the exhaust and cant get starter in. Time to call it a day it'll run tomorrow.

[Muncie]

 

Turns out i can build an enggine that runs ok. Few niggling issues, its going in to limp mode but it drives.

[Muncie]

 

[Muncie]

Its got a few ticks but that's probably more to do with 15/40 running in oil also some exhaust leaks because of my hoki doke turbo bypass system making it sound worse than it is.

All in all bloody happy!