Daves new school holden shambles. Think i need a cert......

[jakesae101]

Realistically I need a larger stall than what I have I regret not going to a 25-2800 stall but $$$ after everything was tight but it made a night and day difference to my car with the cam combo ect as I had a number if drivability issues ect. My tuner said my car for some reasons idle tune ect was one of the hardest hes had despite having done the same combo ect

[cletus]

You might find a high stall will make traction worse- if the rpm is higher, that will put it in an rpm range where it's making more power, which if you're borderline on traction, will make it worse 

In my opinion, traction is the number one thing to get right with drag racing, as without it, you cannot use whatever hp you have to its full potential 

You might be better to do some tyre /suspension tuning, get your traction issues sorted first before spending $ on a converter - lsd and 15 inch tyres with a decent soft sidewall would be my suggestion 

I didn't really get to watch much racing but it seemed like it makes boost pretty early in the rev range 

[Muncie]

I think my biggest issue was with the helmet on i couldn't hear the engine as im quite deaf anyway and I couldn't look at the dash as it wanted to squirm around.

Real weird power delivery nothing for 500rpm then everything all at once if I had all the power It feels like I could peddle it better.

It makes 5psi at 2000rpm but 10psi at 2600rpm.

[Muncie]

May have had more luck on my street tyres but been a taller sidewall it would put way more load on everything and i was worried about breaking the Transmission. 

I'm dead keen to give roll racing a go as it would be in its element as is.

From the drive to and from the track towing, What a tow rig! My trailer isn't big but it's bloody heavy and tall engine just cruises along boost is there as you need it without the trans changing down. 

I did my fastest run of day with 2x 12" subs in the boot and the spare tyre and took a bite out of my toasted sandwich from Pokeno bacon on return road after the run and that's the best part of day for me. Second best part of day is people bloody loved it in the pits, nothing but positive comments from people with cars i thought were way more impressive.

 

[RUNAMUCK]

I'm not sure what "slicks" you were running,

But a semi decent set of DOT drag tyres will transform your vehicle.  Like absolute night and day. I did lot of meets on garbage road tyres. And the whole dynamic changes once the car just bites the track and propels you forward like a cock out of a bottle.

What was your 60ft time?

[Muncie]

https://hoosiertiregp.com/hoosier-circuit-racing-d-o-t-radial-p235-35z-r19-r7-46916r7/

Not a drag slick but should have been better than road tyres.

Think I'll take Cletus advice and find some 15" soft side wall proper drag tyres if im going back. 60 foot times were in the 2.3's the lack of initial power then as soon as it spooled up wheel spin didn't help.

90% shit driver 

[Muncie]

Ran numbers through an online calculator that takes weight barometric pressure and the run 1/4 mile information and it comes out with a Horsepower number of 245-260 depending on the various calculations out there.

Not sure if that at wheels or crank as they are all quite vague.

Still it's more than the 200hp ish stock.

[Roman]

Yeah I've found track oriented semi slicks to be same or worse compared to street tyres.
As they generally have very stiff sidewall which is unhelpful. 
A drag oriented tyre makes all of the launch stuff way more forgiving, like it makes for a way larger window of acceptable rpm/power at which its happy to launch. rather than feeling like you're on a knife edge of either bogging or wheel spin.
 

[Muncie]

They were cheap with lots of life so that's why I ran them as I've got BRIDGESTONE RE003 on rear for street and didn't want to scuff those up,

I'll keep an eye out for some proper drag slicks. 

I did a 14.6 @98mph on the Road tyres as my first run just see how everything performed 

I'm 100% blaming the driver he's a bit shit. Was fun to not lose every race though.

[Stu]

Congrats! Its pretty good mph for the time - probably a low 14 even maybe a 13 in it.

[RUNAMUCK]

Even with decent ish power, once they're properly staged, they just hook up. 

Then you can fit a high stall, and really watch the tenths disappear. 

[Roman]

4 hours ago, Muncie said:

I'm 100% blaming the driver he's a bit shit.

Nah, it takes time to dial everything in.
It's extra hard without some form of launch control that lets you replicate the exact same launch method each time.
Because even with that, there are so many variables at play that can positively or negatively affect your launch.
Very hard to isolate the effects.
Which is part of why it makes me laugh that they ban ethrottle and traction control, for the drag competitions, unless its factory fitted.
Like you can have traction control with a street tyre where it needs to stay in this tiny band of rpm to launch good, and any overshoot with the tyre spinning up and your run is toast. 
Compared to just sending it on a drag slick that has a 5000rpm band of acceptable launch options, and is completely happy to be be spinning 3/4 of the way down the track and still accelerating like crazy.
So almost zero point in any traction control stuff unless you're making a fairly massive whack of power.

[Muncie]

Reading all the above the high stall could probably wait but a diff gear change and LSD is probably a less invasive and better value mod.

A 13 should be easy if i can get some practice at night speed wars or something.

Shit it was so tempting to give the boost controller a few more clicks but the temperature gauge was starting to move if I hotlapped it.

At least the Transmission shift points and pressures I set worked mint spinning it to 6400rpm helped too.

 

[Muncie]

Finally got around to post Drag day check over, all in all this thing took an absolute hiding seems to come off relatively unhurt.

The good things-

• Lifter tick went away 
• It survived having the boost at 9psi
• The driveline liked the mods done in PCM, all of that worked it shifted well and trans didn't get hot- i should probably service it now.
• New to me adjustable rear shocks worked but I need to figure out how to set them up better.

The bad things-

• The TPS has jammed itself at 100% so i need to investigate that, i wouldn't mind betting the solder where i extended the wiring loom has let go with the massive under bonnet temps when beating the snot out of it
• Wheel spin, I struggled to do much on day other than drive through it till it found grip. With the helmet on i couldn't hear the engine at all so maybe some more gauges (yuck) might help give me some cues.
• Massive manifold leak on drivers side, It could be crack or in need of machining flat.
• Rust under paint in rear guard, the paint in general is a bit shit now having lived outside for 5 years with me.
• It does get a little hot like 6/10's on dash if you beat on it repeatedly but it can shed the heat really quickly.

Plan for new year is to sort the above things, and also move towards getting the cert done fit hoops to driveshaft etc and a smaller intercooler so I can fit a stock crash bar.

New radiator is probably a good idea and also an oil cooler would be good to help keep the oil alive. I also need to plumb in water cooling on turbo.

I'm going to fit a VK reverse cowl scoop to help with under bonnet temps and go nuts with more heat wrap, I'll paint that at same time as most of car will try do that during summer just get it nice again. 

I need to decide if I'm going lower or higher and if I want to fit my set of wide wheels and pump the guards. Or just throw money at it and get some Simmons in the sizes and offset I want to fit the with tyres I'd like.

Decisions...... then there's building a new engine however I am pretty happy with power as is so I can scale that back to a less expensive build with just ARP fasteners and new pistons in my l67 block that will see it too 500hp if i want to go there.

 

[Muncie]

Some cool pics from day

[Muncie]

Fixed the TPS that had maxed out was indeed a bad solder joint hopefully there's no wire breaks laptop hooked up wiggled things around and it came back online.

Onto exhaust manifold leak, I wasn't expecting this!

I did weld this with with a grumpy little mig so was probably a cold weld I'll tig it back up and run a mig bead over the top and leave the welds as is.

Thats it though only real issues from drag day, mint!

 

[Muncie]

Ain't stacked dimes but I previously did a pretty shit weld think this will last though.

 

broke it in 2 tidied up with grinder sat pieces together tacked then hit it with Tig at 100 amps.

 

And took opertunity to heat wrap it too as every little bit of heat management helps.

 

Reinstalled and blew a hose of intake on test drive.

 

Then jammed my $3000 cellphone in bonnet hinge... amazed phone is fine and intercooler pipe slipped back on.

 

Thats enough for today before I slam my dick in the door or something.

[Muncie]

Engine sounds better than ever by the way Lifter tick has actually gone away

I think this engine may outlive me.....

[Muncie]

Well shit.

 

Turbos poked little spec of shit blocked the restrictor so game over bearings have shat themselves its got play but not grinding or anything so hopefully i can just poke a full new core or even just a rebuild kit at it.

Sucks but I've ignored the watercooling and blow off valve etc so lesson learned that stuff matters.

An inline filter is on its way and I'll see what option are tomorrow.

Turbos about 1100 bucks worst case as I dont need a whole new one you basically order to spec rear housing front cover etc.

Upgrade........ ?? Will see

[Muncie]

I was rummaging through my AN fittings today seeing what i was missing to get water cooling going and took blow off valve out of box again and tried in various places.

Fuck sake 3 hours too late.

All the missing bits for above are now on way.

Back to NA For a bit I'll work on the off boost tune till everything is ready.