Muncie Posted January 6 Author Posted January 6 A bearing kit is $205 usd hopefully that's all it needs or a gen 2 supercore is $1100 nzd at least it's not ultra munted. I'll pull to bits this week see how far I need to go. 2 Quote
Muncie Posted January 8 Author Posted January 8 Ok, it's full of expensive junk..... core is almost a grand front and rear housing survived fine so at least I don't need to rebuy those. Sorry credit card......but you got this. On a serious note had turbo off sitting on bench and car back to NA in under 5 minutes glad I used v bands on everything makes working on this thing a piece of cake. Lesson learned kinda knew could happen its going back on with 30 Micron filters watercooling and a BOV. 4 Quote
Muncie Posted January 10 Author Posted January 10 Bit the Bullet and just bought a supercore, so everything bar the exhaust housing on further inspection the other one is rebuildable but I'll leave that for a later date. Maybe my son wants it or I go nuts and twin turbo the L67 and make 1500hp. Whatever problem solved with new parts and a new addition to the shelf of shame in garage. 6 Quote
Muncie Posted January 12 Author Posted January 12 I think an arduino project might be worth doing for some engine protection so I can monitor some temperatures and pressures and kill the power to engine if it goes outside of parameters.... I've only got 1 spare IO on pcm and it's not an overly fast one either. Yes I know it really should be running a Haltech by now but..... well this works OK for what I need and keeps everything on can bus talking as I hate things that don't work properly. I think I might have low oil pressure so I need to dig a bit deeper there get some data, unsure if turbo died due to low flow from reduced pressure or just junk blocking the restrictor or the restrictor blocked up after the bearings failed as is a few bb's went missing. Either way I can't afford to do this often. Should have supercore tomorrow hopefully. 4 Quote
Muncie Posted January 14 Author Posted January 14 Well I got the shits about frying another turbo so bought a turbosmart OPR2 oil pressure regulator as it has a built in 44 micron filter so it's 2 birds one stone deal. I did order a filter but that restrictor could get blocked if I dont regularly check it from just carbon build up over such a small orifice, im not playing this game again..... i can just drill out the restrictor and let the reg do the work and also have a gauge or pressure sensor inline keeping tabs on stuff. I've got to tap in some water feeds and mount that Blowoff valve so that will keep me out of trouble water feed AN6 lines are coming. Trying Aliexpress parts for the waterlines but will stick with Speedflow fittings and line for oil. 5 Quote
Muncie Posted January 15 Author Posted January 15 OPR arrived today so fitted a nice little stainless pressure gauge to it so i can keep track on pressure at the turbo and offered up to old turbo to see if it fits mounted straight to the oil feed, I run a turbo beanie so it doesn't actually get that hot there. Sweet little unit. 5 Quote
Muncie Posted January 15 Author Posted January 15 I've had these two old school Greddy gauges since I was in my teens might just fit them in dash I didn't want extra gauges but the product I've been on pre order for over a year is only getting released to the USA initially and well i need working data now..... If anyone can tell me what sensors a Greddy temperature an oil pressure gauge use let me know as I've long since lost them. 1 Quote
zach_munce Posted January 15 Posted January 15 Ah my bedroom will be losing one of its performance parts still have the oil cooler tho Quote
Popular Post Muncie Posted January 16 Author Popular Post Posted January 16 Its back together and making lovely sounds again. Now running a Gen 3 turbo PSR3584RS original was Gen 1 GTX3584RS New one is rated for an extra 50 hp and has one blade less on impeller hopefully that's less mass and I see boost a little earlier. It's also better build quality notably has zero shaft play original out of box bugger all but some. Have hooked up everything and started car to check leaks and oil pressure at the new oil pressure regulator which at idle i have 35psi which is ample no restriction in line now and a filter so turbo should last for years. Was slightly worried about tapping in to the top of thermostat housing but it flows well at idle should be a stream once thermostat opens. Had to take little gauge off as it doesn't quite clear bonnet have confirmed system is working properly so job done. I need to take off my bottom radiator hose and weld an AN6 nipple to complete the coolant loop. Piece of cake though then it's ready to drive again. 14 Quote
Roman Posted January 16 Posted January 16 Far out, that didnt take long! Be interesting to see the difference 1 Quote
Muncie Posted January 16 Author Posted January 16 2 hours ago, Roman said: Far out, that didnt take long! Be interesting to see the difference I'd love to pick your brain about a 3d printed collector as I'm pretty sure my crossover is choked at the manifold as it necks down to 32mm from 51mm. It works at 10psi but I intend to build a new long block and run 20-25psi in future its going to choke itself Quote
Muncie Posted January 18 Author Posted January 18 Quick first drive today just up around block to get thermostat open and any bubbles out of cooling system. Sounds quite different turbo spool is much higher pitch seems a bit more responsive but I wasn't really testing it at time. Turbo looks like its on life support with so many hoses coming of it...... 2 Quote
Popular Post Muncie Posted January 26 Author Popular Post Posted January 26 Finished all the watercooling lines in AN6 I just swapped out the top Bleed port on thermostat housing for an 1/8 to an6 adapter sent that to the turbo and out the other side to my lower hose as its got a stainless section due to the proximity to the crossover pipe, easy as to weld a fitting too. The cooling system now self bleeds out air from thermostat (sweet a small upgrade) turbo is way more consistent in temp when you stick your hand on the compressor housing too. My work ute had a major electrical gremlin last week so I took advantage of been able to fill off the company card and drove the shit out of it all week, Total success new turbo is quieter and very responsive its basically more responsive than a supercharged engine now. Airflow meter is now maxed out at 10psi so I need to find a LS unit and wire in. 12 Quote
Muncie Posted February 2 Author Posted February 2 Went to give this some berries today and got lots of knock over 4500 Rpm Knock strategy caught it and pulled timing so no harm done I was getting away with on 100 octane, Just by the skin of my teeth as it turns out . I have been driving this to work and filling it up with 95 octane due to my fuel card only working at Z..... so i sat down and ReWrote a new BIN file for it using another new Definition file that has made many more parameters for editing. These Public Definitions havent changed in years till about november last year and Whole load of new versions went up on PCMhacking.net First thing was Timing i pulled 5 degrees out of everything over 2200rpm which should help with the hot weather and if i use 95 octane occasionally. Quick road Test at 31c outdoors today its not knocking anymore MINT!! few other things changed while in there Upped the Max airflow limit by 10% which has given me headroom for a little bit till i go to a bigger MAF i'm now just under it at 6500RPM instead of basically hitting traction control over 5500rpm (weird quirk holden had in their engine management) Enable some Patches which some clever bugger has coded, Mainly to improve some tuning issues with big injectors and another that fixes an annoying quirk where traction control causes havoc for a second before all cylinders come back online. The coolest one is an added feature that allows you to select another timing map by pressing the power button which normally just changes transmission modes, it could be used for water injection or super high boost mode for instance. 7 Quote
Muncie Posted February 5 Author Posted February 5 Scored more wheels....... i blame my son for his facebook market place deal finding and money laundering skills. These ones do actually fit inside the guards just aren't as pretty as the M5 wheels. As seen on a car that was at my work. 8 Quote
zach_munce Posted February 5 Posted February 5 I've got a chronic issue of doom scrolling market place. To add I also git some Dobi super lows? Not 100% but seem quite low got them for 150 so decent ish deal, have to pass school this year and I will officially have a commodore Quote
zach_munce Posted February 5 Posted February 5 Have started a little parts hoard under the house that mum hasn't seen yet will have to take them to dad's before I get told I'm horrible with money 1 Quote
Muncie Posted February 6 Author Posted February 6 I was trying to figure out on these wheels why the front tyres are absolutely destroyed on the front inside edges, way worse than a bad alignment balled up burnt rubber and shredded steel belts...... penny dropped they were on a Holden. A 245 40 19 will rub on the front struts if you dont use the right struts these have 255 55 19s on them and they have attempted to drive on them. The noise smoke and lack of power the car would of had should of been red flags right up until both front tyres exploded. 2 3 Quote
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